Thruxton R Paddock Stands Uk Dilemma

I can vouch for this one as it’s what I use on the rs.
Comes with different size spigots also. £75 as it’s on sale and it’ll be there tomorrow.
I also sit on the bike with this and a rear stand and have no issues

 

Really feel for you, after all of the effort to do it right. I always thought of stands as a secure lift, now starting to wonder if they should be treated like a jack and chocks or similar added.

 

That is awful, lucky you noticed before the bike dropped down.
Looks like cheap tat, is there any way you can get your money back? I would at least send a big nasty complaining email or letter to the maker. It surely is not fit for purpose.
Better luck next time.

 

I have an Abba Stand and the mechanics fitting kit, the Superbike stand comes with a make/model specific kit in the deal, you can also purchase the additional 2 bars that lift both front and rear wheels off the ground, it is very robust and you can safely sit on the bike with no worry the bike will fall over. If you are working on different bikes then the full fitting kit is the way to go, just about every modern machine is covered, it also allows the rear swing arm to be removed (unlike most stands). When you consider the cost of a machine if it fell of a stand it's worth investing in one of the best out there.

 

Glad that worked Baza, I have just been working on the rear swing arm on my sons Panigale 1299s, for me personally I would not have attempted to work on it with anything other than a suitable stand, given the bike cost £21,000 and then an extra £4,500 for the full Akro race exhaust and mapping, then another large amount for further extras and carbon fibre, he would be really annoyed if it fell off anything improvised. I have never shied away from buying what tools are required and regard them as a very good long term investment for bike or car. In a previous life as a qualified mechanic (old school sixties), I guess what I was taught will stay with me forever. I have said before that there are some fantastic self taught mechanics here on the forum, who use all sorts of improvised techniques that are impressive, some I would use myself. However what you don't hear that much about is when things do go wrong in an expensive way, it is certainly not a criticism far from it, the old adage of "you pay your money and take your chance" sums things up with any improvisation.

 

Baza, you raise valid points...
Yes whether the joint is lubricated or not is important, and as the table implies the torque value is primarily a means to creating the correct tensile (axial) load in the fastener. I seem to recall Ducati always stating what grease or thread lock etc. is to be used along with the torque setting in easy to follow tables, Triumph seem to be less thorough in that respect.
Your comment with regard softer materials is correct in an extreme, however in practice the shear stress in the thread form is always far lower than the tensile stress in the bolt cross section. So provided there is sufficient thread engagement (i.e.=> than 1xdia. - or greater in weaker materials) then the housing/nut will always be ok.
The practical consequence of this is seen in that if you over torque a bolt it always shears across it's diameter you never shear/strip the thread form in the housing unless you've cross threaded the bolt (or too few turns of thread engagement) in which case it's not a valid joint.
Retired now, but earnt my living as a mechanical design engineer, wasted so many hours of my life calculating thread shear stresses knowing from experience that it will always be safer than the tensile stress in the "bolt", but proof was always required.