Secondary Air Injection Removal

I've only used ttp maps and they need o2 removed. If you leave the o2 sensors in with your air box mods you might find lower rev running a bit snatchy

 

Ok mate I'll load the map for no sensors and lose them

 

Just to be clear Rocker, Crispey is referring to the Bonneville maps provided (at a cost) by Triumph Twin Power (TTP)

They have a range of maps to suit the Bonny EFi models in various states of tune. If you're not familiar with them, have a look here :

http://www.triumphtwinpower.com/triumph-twin-power-efi-tunes.php

 

Don't tune ecu do a similar map I'm sure I've seen one?

 

Are these the bungs?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222198163664?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

Hi Rocker, I think they will do the job ! I just parked outside a hardware store and did the conversion outside, found the right bolts/threads and temporarily blocked them off. Rode home removed them cut them short, copper washers and reinstated them, job done for about 0.60 cents each !!

Cheers capt.

 

Has anyone tried using one of these in the AI hose?

 

Where do you get one of those? Is it from a home brew kit?

 

Is it recommended to remove the O2 sensors as well as getting rid of the AI?

 

Hi Bob, it depends what you are trying to achieve ?

If for example you want to reduce throttle snatchiness, popping on over-run and blueing of header pipes; then removing/disabling the AI system will help.

Removing the O² sensors or not? That is a bit more complicated to decide. The O² sensors are there to measure the exhaust gases and help the ECU to 'optimise' the fuelling.

If they detect unburnt fuel, the ECU will turn down fuel input via the fuel injectors. The idea being to encourage the bike to run as lean as it can, whilst still functioning. It's all about emissions requirements placed upon the manufacturers.

With that in mind, let's go back to the AI system for a moment. To be clear it only operates when the throttle is fully closed or up to 6% open. So predominantly on over-run/light throttle.

So let's draw this all together. You are riding down the road, on closed or barely open throttle so the AI is working; the O² sensors detect the extra oxygen in the exhaust gas flow so the tell the ECU ease up a bit on the fuelling. So what you have now is richer exhaust gas in the hot header pipe which explodes causing the popping, and creates extra heat causing the blueing of your pipes. It all creates snatchiness on the throttle because so many fuelling changing are taking place.

So, to your actual question, if you remove the AI system without removing the O² sensors, your bike under circumstances will run a bit lean.

My advice? Take it all out, AI & O², remove the filter box snorkel, install a free flow filter, and buy a remap from TTP who are the experts in the UK at mapping twin cylinder Triumphs. Yes, it'll cost a bit, but your bike will run smoother than ever, more mid range torque and better fuel economy.

 

Thanks for the advice mate. Main things I’m trying to achieve is to reduce the ‘snatching ‘ of the throttle at slow speeds, and avoid bluing the exhausts, will just removing the AI do this?

 

It will 'to some degree' but you have an America by the looks of it which has a 270° crankshaft whereas all my experience has been based on the T100 which has a 360° crank ???

If you want to really cure it, my advice above will make a better bike overall as well as as curing the snatchy throttle.

You could always just block (with anything to hand) the AI supply pipe from the airbox and ride your bike for a week or two and see how it feels. No harm will come to your bike

 

Cheers mate, I appreciate all the advise.

 

Just a quick thought Bob, that cut-off valve device you were asking about. I would not use that as my 'test phase' method as it means cutting the supply pipe to insert the valve, and what happens if you don't like what you encounter? You would need to buy another pipe to take it back to standard?

 

Good point well presented, I’ll find another temporary method, thanks again.

 

Ball bearings or a bolt, they are the easiest to use and then reverse !
Everything that thebiglad said above applies to the 270° America and Speed master models ! Did exactly as he's said before I went "Whole Hog" and gutted everything and did big bore and dyno !!

Cheers capt

 

Isn't this a complete contradiction to your reply on the other SIA removal thread???

 

I want to do the full SAIS removal for all the reasons mentioned above and especially to get them out the way of the plugs, with it in place it must make them awkward to get at and if it stops pipe blueing etc, seems a good idea

 

It definitely stops pipes from bluing , my America has 130,000 klms up , done three long tour's towing a 180/220 kg trailer and no bluing yet. The pipes have corroded a bit more on the bends near the head , but that's a lack of polishing , can't spare the time when you're 3,000 klms from home and still have 3,000 plus to get back home !

Cheers capt

 

@Dozers Dad

Well there's a story to tell ! Just bought another triumph , 1998 sprint executive , so rang around for insurance's on it and my current America . Swann insurance turned out best deal ! Not the cheapest , but better coverage and lower excesses !! And they wouldn't insure my America for anything under $7900 Aussie dollars ! So around £4000 to £6000 of your monies !
So I'm covered for agreed value $8,500 with $450 general excess and helmet cover up to $500 value and general bike clothing , jacket , jeans , boot's etc to $1000.
Vehicles hold their values for longer here NO Salted roads in winters and rain's are seasonal ! So vehicles don't rust and deteriorate as much as in Blighty .

I paid $17,000 ish dollar's new ten years ago , had $3,500 in extras. So new price was about $14,500/$14,800 ? So ten years lost 50% of it's value .. ! Or I could get more than market value as it's a really good performance machine ! Nearly doubled the original horse power and it is still an easy rider !

Cheer's capt