pulling hair out over indexing '72 T120V with camplate leafspring

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by rich, Jul 9, 2015.

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  1. rich

    rich Member

    #21 rich, Jul 20, 2015
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2015
    Yep, using mineral oil for engine. No, gearbox not sorted yet - new 3rd. gear mainshaft pinion is here, as are new gaskets. Helicoil kit on order to repair stripped out outer cover bolt thread. That pdf manual is fantastic, btw, but no doubt I'll still arse it up somehow! Yup, got proper gear oil on standby too. Now, if only the bloody depression (in my head, not in the inlet tract) would pee off (not my Triumph's fault - I put it down to being a school bus driver for 14 years!!!) then we could do very well I'm sure!! :) p.s. how many depressives does it take to change a lightbulb? None - I'd rather sit and mope in the dark (who mentioned Lucas?) :):)
     
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  2. camman

    camman Member

    Jun 7, 2015
    20
    8
    christchurch dorset
    You will light up like that peverbial light bulb once you have it sorted Rich :D and the cloud of depression will lift....until the next little foible appearso_O
    Lucas gear in its early days, wasn't as bad as it is painted IMO, but the later switchgear deteriorated rapidly as prices were dictated in the 70, s
    The Lucas gear including the E.I., took 36 years and 70,000 + miles to finally pack up on my T140 which isnt to bad in my book, mind you, it runs better now than it would have ever done, on modern electronic systems fitted........and 34mm Mikuni carbs....and racing cams ....and :).........but drinks more than i do :(
    Now you have had time to study the manual, I'm sure your gearbox will sliptogether like a swiss watch :cool:
    Good luck
    Graham
     
  3. rich

    rich Member

    I feel so very green compared to you all! Graham - I anticipate that it'll slip together more like Swiss cheese! Everything is here now that I need to make a start on her - gear pinion, two gaskets, gasket squidgey, gear oil and my very first helicoil kit to sort out that outer cover bolt thread. I've even been to the dox to get some more Prozac Schmozac! Also need to replace rear wheel bearings, which I also have sitting ready - will I need to grind out one of the races or will it tap out through the wheel inner spacer tube thingie? :)
     
  4. rich

    rich Member

    Story of my smeggin' life, Mr. Half ton sir! A million different jobs on the go at once, and not one of them finished! If I lived in the Arctic then I would probably be a bipolar bear..:)
     
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  5. rich

    rich Member

    Ok, folks, here's the latest - pulled the box completely out today, apart from the mainshaft (which I can slide in and out a good half inch or so) and its fourth and fifth gears, and the back wheel still won't turn. it feels like it's in gear and will only rock back and forth until it's stopped with a clonk. I hate it and I wish it would die in a freak yachting accident...
     
  6. rich

    rich Member

     
  7. rich

    rich Member

    But I still don't understand how drive gets from back wheel to crank without any bloody gears in the box.... ;)
     
  8. rich

    rich Member

    Do cor
    Do correct me if I am wrong, but surely the drivetrain is thus- crank turns clutch input, clutch output turns input to gearbox, gearbox output turns final drive chain, back wheel goes round. So how the smeggeddy smeg can the back wheel turn the crank when the gearbox has no gears in it? Am I just being stupid or what? Genuinely confused :)
     
  9. rich

    rich Member

    Ah, Mr. Halfton. Greetings. No, Tina has been put on hold while I sort out a few other things. What I do know is that the primary side has locked up (finally figured out how the gearbox input and output can be on the same shaft). Looks very much as if the engine will be sent off to a man who knows what he's doing, as I don't have the patience for it! :)
     
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  10. rich

    rich Member

    So finally the engine has been taken to the man who knows what he's doing - and he seemed very concerned as I described the faults
     
  11. rich

    rich Member

    He said very little, other than that there isn't much to go wrong in the primary drive to cause it to lock. I strongly suspect the mainshaft as I understand that carries power into, and out of, the gearbox - and I suspect that it is this which is locking up. He'll have had the engine for two weeks this wednesday so hope there's some news by then
     
  12. rich

    rich Member

    Arse. And chapped nipples too. Just spoken to the man - damaged everything it seems. A box full of historical knackeredness - damaged or broken or missing or split gears, layshaft, splines, thrust washers, dogs, dog caps, bearing, sea lion, etc etc. Even new layshaft third gear has too much play. Already had to fabricate a puller and diamond tools have been mentioned along with many new parts. Should have stuck with my Hornet...

    Notice my new avatar - the engine doing what it does best. Old MGB and Bonnie in perfect dischord...
     
  13. rich

    rich Member

    Yes, after five weeks' soddin' wages! Whores will have their trinkets, I auppose :)
     
  14. rich

    rich Member

    Mr Half Ton Sir,

    The latest news from Jesse's shed - the gearbox was last put together by a gorilla. And a gorilla not particularly au fait with Triumph boxes, it seems. Wrong mainshaft (from a Trident) which has caused loads of endfloat, which in turn has caused wearing of the cases, and float in the gear pinions, causing two to lock and smash the gear up. Also, wrong output sprocket, which explained the pedestrian performance. That bike is a right dog's dinner :)
     
  15. rich

    rich Member

    Ok, more news. Turns out that although it has a Trident mainshaft, the rest of the gearbox is from a 140, and mine's a 120. Wrong ratios. Output sprocket had two teeth two many as well. My engine man is having terrible problems indexing it up, especially with that stupid leaf spring thing
     
  16. Sprinter

    Sprinter Kinigit

    Aug 17, 2014
    6,029
    1,000
    uk
    sounds like you have rescued an abused dog and now your paying the vets bills too . good on u dude.
     
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  17. rich

    rich Member

    raggin' shaggin' fraggin' schmeggin' bloody thing
     
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  18. crispey

    crispey crispey creme de la creme

    Nov 6, 2014
    7,225
    1,000
    Uk
    I'll go along with that
     
  19. rich

    rich Member

    So folks - it's finally fixed and ready to be picked up this saturday. After 15 weeks at the engine repairey place! They'd never seen anything like it in decades of working on old bonnies! Gearbox was full of incorrect parts (now smashed), wrong shafts, wrong gears, missing dogs and tips, wrong sprockets, wrong kickstart, etc etc...however the bill was tiny - £250 parts and a mere £250 labour! For 15 weeks' work/storage! Unbelievable. Much respect to Steve the boss at North Road Engineering Services, Newark, Notts, if anyone needs to know.

    Now, whilst I'm here, may I pump you all thoroughly for advice regarding suitable engine oil for the old girl? Which pipe is which going into and out of the oil pump? (Forgot to make a note, doh) And what about gearbox and primary drive oil? I have some unopened 15 yr old silkolene medium gear oil - it may be 15 years old but I didn't think that this would matter as it's spent millions of years under the ground!!

    And finally - she keeps cutting out when she gets warm, no sparks, dead. And then it takes a couple of mins to get her started again. I know it's not my main batt feed/switch as everything else continues to work just fine, and voltage is fine - so I'm thinking maybe a coil breaking down. And as I'm running a boyer ignition with both coils in series, if one goes down, it takes the other one with it. Any suggestions?

    Cheers folks :)
     
  20. camman

    camman Member

    Jun 7, 2015
    20
    8
    christchurch dorset
    Could well be the coil/s, if you have Boyer fitted it is best to replace the coils with single dual outlet coil.
    Another possibility is voltage regulation, I ditched the old rectifier and zener arrangement on my T140e and fitted a modern solid state three phase rectifier/regulator unit along with Pazon E.I, dual outlet coil and Motobatt battery (better when vibration present), and don't get a moments bother now.
    All the recommended oils are in the workshop manual link I sent you some time ago, but I use 20/50 mineral oil from Halfords in engine and primary, as on the t140e they share same oil. On the t140v the cases are separated, and some prefer to use ATF in primary claiming it gives lighter and less sticky clutch.
    Having spent £500 on your gearbox, I would invest in some new hypoy 90 gear oil. Refined oil does last a long time, but like petrol (also oil) does go off.
    I would also make certain you have oil pipes the right way round!!! by checking with workshop manual before running engine, but my guess is, you got it right, otherwise you would have suffered the consequences already.:eek:
    When you have got it all right, you are going to love it, my Bonnie is by far my favourite bike to ride still :)
    Graham
     
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