Featured Potential New Triumph Owner

Sorry @HMC_MT I have only just discovered this gem of a thread. Proper engineering and tinkering!

Love what ur doing.

Keep it up.

 

I completely understand your feelings on obsolete and also original fittings as i had that dilemma with my 66 TT build as i'm all about originality with my old bikes, originally it came with ET ignition and i'm not great with electrics at the best of times let alone with energy transfer ignition, so in the end i went with a single phase alt and Boyer ignition but i used the Boyer power box as well and a Boyer dual output coil, really pleased with the outcome and how easy it was to hide it all away with a very obscure loom.

 

Talk about learning fast i will admit to having a chuckle at your hissy fit/rant in your earlier post as that would be me years ago but luckily i'm at that point in life i now enjoy working building bikes as much as i do riding them, keep up the great work and keep posting updates

 

hey

i keep forgetting that he wired this with the fuse in the ground wire. nothing wrong with that. but it means that the wire from battery to ignition switch will always be the hot one.

bear that in mind if you back through this stuff with questions about th efuse.

 

there is nothing wrong with ditching energy transfer. i have no experience with it and don't want any.

the T120 TT machines are rare and beautiful birds, and for people who just want to put them in a museum the original ignition is the way to go. but if you ever want to actually ride them then there are some changes that are very hard to argue against.

 

the thing about the parallel system is that you have a spark every 360 degrees, one on the cylinder under compression and the other under exhaust. so one is always a waste spark, and they alternate, left and right. just like th eboyer you bought.

but the points cam rotates at half-crank speed, so the contact points has to interrupt the current to the coil at the correct time. that means that at least one set of points has to be closed to energize the coil, and then both sets have to be open to make a spark, with the last set of points opening at the timing mark of 38 BTDC. if one set is opening but the other is still closed, there won't be a spark.

i think this means that both sets of contact points still have to be set at 38 BTDC, but i would have to open the thing up and watch to see whether the coil would have enough dwell and then fire correctly every 360 this way. my head swims at this.

the magneto i use turns at half-speed, but s set up to fire four spark plugs at once, every 360 degrees. so there are two live sparks and two waste sparks every 360 degrees. but it does it the easy way with one set of points and a two-bump contact breaker cam.

 

You can download books online or the best bet is to buy a parts book and workshop manual as they are far better.

 

worry not. setting up is straightforward.

 

Have fun and take your time

 

there you go. read the instructions over several times.

you will be taking out the old wires starting from the ignition switch, going to the coil and condensers, and then down to the ignition points. take off the coil and the condensers, remove the points plate and the AAU. all the rest of your wiring stays.

 

finger over the hole is still the simplest, but you can do it visually as well.

take off the valve cover caps. when the right side is on compression both valves will be closed-- the rockers will rattle under your fingers because of the clearance-- and the piston will be coming up. stick a long zip tie down the plug hole to make sure its rising.

the left cylinder will be on exhaust with the intake closed.and the exhaust open.

stop when the timing pointer lines up on the mark on the alternator rotor on the left side, behind the round cover with 3 screws. or you may have a slot in the crank at 38 btdc that you get at under that hex head on the cases just below the rear pushrod tube.

 

theres a tool to use in that timing hole that looks like a threaded plug with a hole through it. you screw the plug into the hole and then poke a fitted rod in so it rubs on the crank gently as you rotate the motor. when the 38 btdc slot passes by the rod drops into the slot and stops the motot. some have a tdc slot too.

i didnt see any of these in your boxez of toolz when i looked