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Banged em back on and almost straight. I may apply a bit more of a bend when the dismantle and paint comes around but feels so much better while sat on the bike.



Once the footrests were on I found that the kickstart hit the right hand one. Bit of confusion for a while until I realised I'd mixed up the kickstart with one of the other builds. Swapped with the other and Bob's yer Auntie. Good job as the cotter pin wasn't done up on the other (obviously meant to change over but forgot).

 

Then look what arrived via Mr Postie today.



Can get on with the battery box then



Notice one of the previous transistor boxes that I managed to kill. I marked it just in case I build the bolloxed one in. (Ensure to earth strap the engine back to the negative side of the battery when using these).

 

I've slash cut the zorsts and remounted but not done much today as it's fiddling about thinking where to put ancillary items. The battery will need to go in the recess of the oil bag cause to fit it in the battery box would mean a complete arse to get it out as it's a bit tight with the Amen frame strut there. So I think I'll still bolt in a cut down version of the battery box and put the ignition switch and transistor in there with the rectifier bolted to the outside (I could use a solid state rectifier and put it in the box but I've got a lucas one on the shelf so will use that). Then I was thinking about mounting the coils.
I like the coils mounted under the tank with short HT leads so was playing with that. The deep tunnel tank doesn't give a lot of space particularly with the digger type Amen frame but a shallow tank (and I just happen to have one hanging on the wall) gives a bit more space. Buggered if I know which one to use now.....which is why not a lot will be done today. I get into these 'stuck' moments and can't decide. The shallow tunnelled tank follows the frame's backbone while the deep tunnelled follows the strut of the frame. The shallow tunnelled tank will suffer from petrol shortage as there'll be a lot of petrol that won't gravity out so the wider king sportster will at least give a few miles. Which one....which one?



This is the narrow, deep tunnelled sportster tank



And this is the wider, shallow tunnelled sportster tank

I can mount the coils in the same place with either in that triangular space between tank and headstock so I could just crack on I suppose but this will bother me now

 

Maybe I'll have to put it to the vote......what tank? Well, after lots of bumbling about, holding them here and holding them there, I sorted the coils, tomorrow is another day. I may not do much tomorrow, I'm getting me vaccine so I'll have a sore arm, having been a brave soldier and getting a "I've been vaccinated" badge. Hopefully I'll be getting home made bread sandwiches, tea and a bit of a lay down

 

Yep, 2 votes for the deep tunnel (mine as well), thanks Helmut

 

As predicted, not a lot done today as I've had me vaccine. I adjusted the coils so that the pingel could actually be operated and ran them parallel with the tank. The original bike had those red lights in the HT leads I shortened and bunged them on just to look, and you know what, I think they've gone round the circle of cool to become cool again. I may keep them. They look sort of Iron Sky.



I've also added the ignition key. I was going to put this in the battery box and put the battery in the oil bag but over several teas I've reverted back to battery in battery box and glove box (security chain, tools, cool shades, secret shit, etc) in the oil bag. I've put it into the engine plate where the swing arm nuts were located (when it was originally a Thunderbird/Bonny) but will need to weld a cover in place.

 

Got some new footrest rubbers. I don't like the big round ones so I thought I'd put some of the flatter rear set / early type on. The metal footpegs have a sort of flange on them:



So, grind that off:



And push on the new rubbers, look miles better than the big round ones and are flatter:

 

Was, again, wondering about battery box and oil bag. So discussed with the Admin Staff and she, quite rightly, said that access to battery was quite important. I'm always a bit concerned about putting all the weight of oil bag, oil and battery on a vibrating machine (I'm into mechanical joints rather than my amateur welded ones). So the Admin Staff suggested hanging the battery in a strap that connects to the frame thereby taking the weight off of the oil bag!!! Cor, fantasticoso...



So, set about making and attaching said strap





All joins threaded and bolted up keeping the positive away from any frame part.



The battery box will now only have the transistor in it rattling around. So I'll stick the ignition switch in there (saves welding on a shelf to the engine plate to protect the switch). Secret stashes can go in as well. What fun.

 

Back to the rear wheel as I wanted to get it central and the spacers made.



I had no idea what a welded on bracket was for until I saw the state of the speedo axle drive. The distance piece that sits inside the speedo drive was missing so without any pressure on the drive casing it must have been spinning with the wheel. The bracket was just the right size to take the threaded section of the drive which would stop the spin but must have interfered with the plunger springs working. So off came the bracket, new speedo drive and distance piece and a new axle spacer to keep the frame square.





All looks good, will see if I have a drive cable long enough stashed away. As this build has a 1964 engine it has a speedo drive off of the gear box but I'll use the one on the axle seeing as it's new due to the old one being in pieces and totally wanked.

 

I like to keep the garage bright and cheery, although not many people visit . There's always tea available and amusing areas to sit.

 

Tricky, yes you are probably right maybe not gone round the circle of cool enough, but we'll see how it looks once it's been painted. I'd like for it to show it's 70s un-dyed roots, but if they look silly it's pretty easy to sort to get them down with the electrics box.

 

Bashed me hand squeezing on the rubber grips so have been jumping around the garage calling it names. So, have packed it in for today.
Have, however managed to get the nice new gear change foot lever and rubber on and some nice new twist grips and levers. Also have made a cover for the battery that bolts down to keep it away from prying eyes (and fingers).



Starting to come together. Electrics box to fit, brackets for zorsts to make and weld on and a few other bits and bobs and it'll be time for dismantle, rebuild top end on engine and painting. Looking part of the gang already.



Watch out for the next enthralling, epiglotisical and exciting episode. Where are those plasters?

 

That is all so very impressive! Others can do better than that!

I’ll show you the Meccano model I might buy and might put together if I can be arsed.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Meccano-60...hild=1&keywords=mechano&qid=1615398855&sr=8-3

On a serious note I have just been told that a stainless steel oil tank has appeared for a Triton we’re doing up.

Gotta dash...

Edit: After breaking down the engine, gear box, and well, everything important it was a terrible to see grey sludge emerge from the fibreglass oil tank. It had speckled metallic flecks - which cause a moment or three of hysteria.
We eventually realised that it was the fibreglass tank ‘corroding’.

Need to flush the engine oil and find a new home for the new oil tank.

Joy.

Major panic averted.

 

Thanks Motorcycling Chaps and Steve Zodiac of the WSP (Sector 25).
Dark - I do like the right hand gear change but would rather the hydraulic easy-ness of discs, therefore later left hand years, if it's a custom build. You have to keep your mind in gear around traffic as I've tried to use the gear lever to hold it on a hill several times on each bike. I'd rather a good front for stopping which will be erm....iffy at best with the weenie drum on this build. The little drums (which Lowbrow still sell) are only just good enough to hold the bike on a hill I hear so it'll be interesting.
Tricky - I also like the look of a fatter bum on a bike - not those frankly silly 300 widths - but the 200 looks really nice. The engine had to be moved over to allow a straight pull on the chain but you'd never really notice. I move too slowly to worry about how it effects cornering and all that flash riding. I like to admire the scenery these days as I'm not in a rush any more. I'm one of those that still waves at other riders with the peace sign rather than all that speedy side nodding bollox.
To be honest I'm really enjoying lockdown and this build using pretty basic tools. It's not going to be anything special but it's sort of pretty and it'll be a pure 70s FAB chopper.
Anything could happen in the next half hour.
Bot - exactly why I'll get an ally Trackmaster....