from the ashes rose a Phoenix

Exciting times Chap.
Was the same for me with my Dominie.
Got sparks to the plugs, fuel in tank, tickle carb, set choke...............
One kick, NO, not playing!
Two kicks, BUGGER it kicked me back
Three kicks................BUUUUUURM!!!!!!

 

Ahhhhhhh Buuuuurrrrrmmmmmmm, what better sound on a cold moring after a big lay off or in your cases a rebuild.
My Sprint has been stuck in the garage for 4 weeks due to my sciatica. Had to go to start her today even tho I am still far from well enough to go out on her. Turn turn turn then buuuuurrrrrmmmmmm. Big smiles and know where you are guys.

 

Hi Jennoe,
Got it off e-bay from [email protected] £38.99 incl. carriage.
Loads of other suppliers as well on e-bay.
How they can make and supply them for that sort of money is unbelievable.
It is well engineered and works a treat, I like it because it gives a smooth easy lift both up & down with virtually bugger all to go wrong and folds flat for easy storage.
Well chuffed!

 

Just wondered if you pumped the throttle. Rule one with T3s is leave the throttle alone, there is an enrichment circuit which you over ride if you twist the grip.
I assume you primed the carbs ,knob pointing upwards and press knob inwards for a couple of seconds to fill the carbs, choke on, ignition on, press starter button, no throttle, turn turn turn, brrruuuummmmm. Fingers crossed
Easy stuff first

 

Well I would leave it now for a bit just in case you flooded it. Try my method tomorrow or when you can. My Sprint was a bugger to start originally coz I always pumped the throttle like the old days. Is the fuel fresh, leaded or super?? Normal unleaded is best believe it or not. Sometimes my bike has popped just before she fires,just sayin.
Good luck.
I know the real clever guys will be along soon with loads more stuff but like I said, simple things first.
Are the plugs new and right spec for the bike
Leads are in good nick.
Carb rubbers fitted tight,no leaks
Try running on prime instead of run, could be vacuum fault (make sure you turn it back after tho or you can flood the engine)
see how ya go, I dont think youre too far away mate

 

Thanks mate but I am no legend,just bits n pieces you pick up along the way. I just try to help if and when I can.
I am sure someone else will chip in soon. Although most in here have newish bikes, there are quite a few of us with older Tridents, Sprints etc. it is definitely the friendliest site around, for me the only other site that came close was the CB500 site I used to frequent but the guys in here are the beating of that one
Good luck anyway

 

hi there have you checked you have spark by te
moving plug and touching on engine.

check you have fuel getting through.

if been stood for ages carbs maybe gummed up

these are good starting points without getting into more complicated reasons why it wont start

 

Hi Jennoe.

Fuel pouring out of i presume exhaust headers ? would suggest take carbs off and at least give a good clean out with carb cleaner, ideally take jets out and soak in cleaner even if the needles are worn it would still run.

Sounds if outting that much fuel into engine floats or float needles stuck not un common in bikes that have been stood for ages.

If not sure plenty of videos on you tube of how to do this.

would also check if you have a spark and do a compression test, if you have spark, fuel and compression should start.

 

Agree totally with Boothy above, sticking floats best bet. Whatever you do make sure the fuel tap is switched to run ,not prime, when you leave it or you will flood the engine. Not a bad job to get the carbs done as it is much easier with pod filters like you have. The airbox makes it very tight to get the carbs out. TBH I havent done it myself as I Have rather large hands and struggle with tight spaced jobs, my bike has always been a runner so touch wood , no probs in that area yet.

 

Is there enough room to get a good grip with a decent pair of mole grips?? If so, I would suggest a can of plusgas and soak for a good time, maybe 24 hours. A bit of heat could help too, hot air dryer?? A good yank with moles may do the job,they must not be worn tho or they will just slip round.
Then if no joy, drill and easyout extractor. For me,final straw is weld a nut onto the stub.
As usual with my stuff I am sure the real clever guys will appear soon with more sensible ideas. I am just a bodger. lol

 

Hi Jennoe, you can buy Left Hand drill bits - if you get one of these, put it into your best electric or cordless drill (turning backwards) it will start to drill a hole. As it does it creates heat which will start to unlock the stud, the more pressure you put on the drill the more the stud will unwind - and Bob, as they say, is indeed your uncle. If needed you can then use the extractor turning backwards.

It's this kind of thing I'm talking about:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-10pc-...hash=item484233197c:m:mTxzEB8W1h7ykE10jjlTYpg

 

had the same problem,,halfords do a set of stud extractors that only need about 10mm of stud.I squirted the stud with penetrating oil and used an impact driver(small 10.8 dewalt) and got all 3 out no probs..good luck ............sorry not halfords these came from ebay the ones from halfords need about 20mm

 

Some good solutions coming through on this one.
My first option would be to carefully file two opposing flats on the stud to allow an open ended spanner to be used with plenty of plus gas or similar, or local heat.
If it fails, drill a hole and use a stud extractor.
If that fails, drill out and re-tap.
Don't think about the last option failing! lol