Driving Me Nuts!

Here's a suggestion that came to me from another forum:

Mix up a solution of 50/50 ATF (Automatic transmission fluid) & Acetone. Spray it on or brush it on. Leave it for 20 mins then try the 46mm socket again.
The acetone will dilute the ATF & allow it to penetrate to the threads. Then the acetone will evaporate. Leaving just the oil (ATF) where it's needed.

I hope this helps.

 

I've no idea mate, this was passed on to me. It could be that it's thinner, therefore more easily penetrates?

 

ATF is very "thin" and designed to handle slip ...!

 

A windy gun and an impact wrench are one and the same thing.
You will always achieve far higher torque with an impact wrench than a breaker bar and so if the garage failed, be sure they were using the gun to remove and not tighten the nut - it isn’t inconceivable they were turning the thing clockwise in error.
Forget homebrew release fluid - use the correct stuff. Why do folks think you can make something better out of acetone and atf fluid?
Trying to grind that off without damage will be very difficult because of the flange base to the nut and it appears to fit in a slight recess.
Just be persistent and you will get it.
Soak it in release fluid for a day or so and try the impact wrench again.
If no joy, . . . Short sharp doses of accurately applied heat using a solderer’s blow torch followed by impact wrench and if this fails, progressively longer application of heat around the circumference of the nut - it will come eventually

 

Hi Daniel, as some members have rightly said you need to use either an impact/air wrench, they do the same thing, 90 psi is of little use and will not be enough to remove the nut, you can hire one cheap enough. I posted a comprehensive thread on this very subject a year or so ago, I have overhauled a fair few of these now, the removal of the hub will undoubtedly collapse 1 of the 3 bearing assemblies, there are a number of spacers and seals in the hub, these need to go back in the correct sequence, the eccentric hub is often seized in place through a lack of servicing, by that I mean often it is not disassembled and re greased at the correct service intervals. All the parts are available, however depending upon what requires renewing it can get expensive, the last one I did cost £220 for the parts alone, although I did use genuine Triumph OEM parts. I can let you have a copy of the genuine factory Triumph workshop manual for the cost of postage if that helps, these are far better than a Haynes Manual, remember to torque the hub nut Etc to the correct value. Good luck with the disassembly.

 

PM me your address, I will let you know the postage cost once I ask at my local PO

 

It's really important that you get it off to grease the needle roller bearing. If it has never been serviced there is a real danger of it seizing when riding. I know someone this happened to at motorway speeds and he crashed but luckily survived to tell the tale

 

An interesting point about 90psi being too little. I don’t know a thing about operating pressures for air driven impact wrenches but certainly, I would expect the air tank to have far higher pressure than that - perhaps if the tool used 90psi, it does so through a regulator. Either way, a decent impact wrench will have that nut off - some of the electric wrenches are animals and I would expect would cream that nut, even without heat!!!
Windy guns need the correct air pressure and fittings. The Honda Civic cam pulley bolt is the infamous arbiter of all stuck nuts!!!!

 

I suspect electric and perserverence is the way to go. . . .

 

Go and hire one

 

We wrestled with the main bolt that held the crank weight on an old Honda car some years ago with a 3-4 foot breaker bar. We put a dent in the concrete floor where we braced but still failed. So we went and bought a "1300 ft-lb" air powered torque gun (USA Harbor Freight), click click and it spun right off in 2 seconds. Also terrific for initially loosening counter shaft sprocket nuts from the factory.