Classic Project

Discussion in 'Other Bikes' started by Sceptic Al, Aug 15, 2016.

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  1. Taff Salmon

    Taff Salmon Active Member

    Aug 22, 2016
    77
    28
    no
    Yeah but avoid anything made in china.
     
  2. stevethegoolie

    stevethegoolie Elite Member

    Oct 16, 2014
    2,454
    800
    East Riding of Yorkshire
    I believe that some SKF bearings have been faked recently:eek: - daytime telly does have its uses occasionally!o_O
     
  3. Taff Salmon

    Taff Salmon Active Member

    Aug 22, 2016
    77
    28
    no
    If its cheap for sure its shyte, but the shyte gets sold for top dollar prices as well. Kick the tyres as hard as you can!
     
  4. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,805
    450
    West Yorkshire
    Very difficult to differentiate where stuff is made now with some of the purposely misleading product information.
    Many, many parts are manufactured in low cost countries and have a final minimal assembly in the U.K. or similar countries renowned for quality, then branded "MADE IN THE UK" "Designed in the U.K." etc.
    SHITE no matter where it is assembled is SHITE and we've probably all been guilty of buying it at some stage.
    I know of plenty superb UK precision engineering and manufacturing companies that have gone under or are just struggling to limp on. Once they are gone, that's it! none of the skills get passed on and we become a nation of shelf stackers for imported products or 24/7 call centre morons.

    That's today's rant out of the way! Now then where did we say Triumphs were made ?
     
    • Like Like x 3
  5. Taff Salmon

    Taff Salmon Active Member

    Aug 22, 2016
    77
    28
    no
    Thats what I said!
     
  6. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,805
    450
    West Yorkshire
    I just put a bit of meat on the bones to explain why the quality is shite and why if we do not support British manufacturing, shite is all that will be available to us in the future.
     
    • Like Like x 3
  7. Sceptic Al

    Sceptic Al Well-Known Member

    Well the Amal service kit arrived. Stripped down the carb, gave it a reet good clean, got rid of all the goo and other crepe. Rebuilt it as per the included drawing using all the new bits, (jets, needle, seals etc). Put in the new needle at slot 3 as per the original set up. All back together, fuel in tank, set up air the air screw as per the base line set up, 1.5 turns out, 2 kicks and away we go. Set everything as per the Amal tuning hints and tips, still running rich.
    Strip down carb, lowered the needle one slot, back together, brum, brum. Now running nice and sweet.:)
     
    • Like Like x 6
  8. Sprinter

    Sprinter Kinigit

    Aug 17, 2014
    6,029
    1,000
    uk
    Following this like a good book :):):)
     
    • Like Like x 1
  9. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,805
    450
    West Yorkshire
    Good stuff Al, the satisfaction you get from doing something like that is hard to explain.
    Looking forward to hearing how you go on with the 'ironman challenge' clutch when you have a ride out.
     
  10. Sceptic Al

    Sceptic Al Well-Known Member

    Now that I've replaced the shagged out clutch plates, cleaned and de-burred the drive, and set up the spring tension on the pressure plate it's oh so much easier to operate and, the extra loud CLUNCK when engaging gears has disappeared. :D
    Two or three kicks and she starts up a treat. The engine runs nice and smooth after some 'tweeking' of the carb, (thanks to Amal for the hint's and tips pages).:)
    Just a few minor rattles coming from the top end, probably tappets, (next on list). The valves are in good nick as shown by a compression test, both cylinders read well over 100 psi per cylinder.
    The timing case cover, kick start crank and gear pedal have all been polished to a brilliant finish thanks to a metal polishing kit for my bench grinder and a day or two standing there polishing and buffing with different grade abrasive waxes on different grade polishing wheels.
    The brakes work but need stripping down and checking out just in case as the beasty has stood for 'kin years, and as I like to know I can stop without too much drama, (I know "a right girlie thing").
    Took her for a cheeky couple of runs up and down the street, (up to 3rd only), WOW, then had to fend off two or three of my adoring neighbours, (all my age group plus a nice young lady from 3 doors down, nice ass). :) Then spent the rest of the day mopping the drool off the garage floor.;)

    Note to self: Stop putting off sorting out the electrical bits!!!!
    It's a total rats nest of crimp connectors and a rainbow of various coloured wires, (some are correct), but all the lights work and the battery charges so not all bad, (I 'kin hate electrics with passion).

    It's all looking good for MOT in Spring 2017 then off and about at Easter, (providing it's frost free and DRY).
     
    • Like Like x 4
  11. Sceptic Al

    Sceptic Al Well-Known Member

    Yet another, small, step further on. When you start delving in to the depths of the clutch you need to remove the rear brake pedal, just make removing the primary chain cover a bit easier.
    So, after rebuilding and setting up the clutch I noticed that the return spring for the rear brake pedal was missing, (no I haven't lost it, it wasn't there when I removed the pedal). New spring ordered from my friendly Norton bits and pieces chap down the road, (RGM). Bloody thing won't go back together with the spring on the brake pedal spindle. Time to get the book out!!!.
    After a look through some of the excellent exploded view drawings found on the net, wrong fekkin' pedal and spindle, apparently it's from one of Nortons lightweight models. Back on the phone, new spindle and pedal.
    While waiting for the bits I decided to check if I could reposition the brake light switch as its a generic one size fits all replacement bit that clamps to the brake rod, not bad but could be better. So I pulled my mechanical engineers head of the cupboard and after a few rubs with a file I extended the mounting bracket and put the switch on the read foot peg mounting bolt. Next manufacture a 'bit' to connect the brake rod to the spring? Out comes the trusty hacksaw and
    the power drill, few minutes later, one nicely formed connection plate, (a thing of true beauty).
    New brake pedal etc arrived, now all back together, brake and switch set up.
    Problems now solved so one smug b'stard:D
     
    • Like Like x 5
  12. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,805
    450
    West Yorkshire
    Top marks Al for your improvisation.
    It explains why two true British bikes are never the same.
    Your updates remind me of my Norton renovation project days, keep them coming.
     
  13. capt

    capt Elite Member

    May 8, 2016
    3,050
    750
    western Australia
    Hi Sceptic All,
    Mag dyno's lose their magnetism if left stationary, a quick possible cure, remove from bike and attach it to a drill and spin it for a few minute's to an hour, it might re-energise ! This worked on my BSA M20 Magneto which sat idle for 10yrs ..!

    Cheers Mick
     
  14. Sceptic Al

    Sceptic Al Well-Known Member

    Thanks for that Mick.
    I got the mag fettled sometime ago (see my other Classic Project posts). It might get changed for electronic ignition but if it works why change it plus, I really want to keep old 'Whiplash' as original as possible.
    She's is still a 'work in progress' but coming along nicely and on schedule for MOT next March then on the road for Easter:D, and it keeps me out of the way of 'she who shall not be named'
     
  15. Sceptic Al

    Sceptic Al Well-Known Member

    After a productive few days up at my daughters in Scotia, me (mostly) and her bloke now have a Norton SS 650 café racer up and running, plus, after a rummage round I acquired a bag of 'useful spares' for my Dominie.
    Next job: Sort out the Road Holder front forks. They're as stiff as a stiff thing that's stiff. I took out the drain plugs and only a tiny dribble of oil came out. So it's forks out, drain, check for wear and tear, possibly new seals, re-fit, fill up and exercise them a wee bit. That's next week sorted:) unless of course Mrs Al has 'other ideas'
     
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  16. Sceptic Al

    Sceptic Al Well-Known Member

    Got the all clear from Mrs Al so I took the chance and started on the front end.
    The front forks didn't have the right amount of oil (only about 100mls from each) and it was very thin stuff. I'm guessing the PO had put 10 or 15 grade in instead of the spec'd 20 grade.
    Anyhow, front wheel and forks out.
    Pleasantly surprised to find all the seals in good nick and no corrosion, (those old boys at Bracebridge Street did a good job putting fully shrouded forks on old Brit Iron). A good clean up and new seals fitted. Everything tightened up and rebuilt. Refilled with new 20 grade oil in each leg and forks back in.
    While the wheel was off I stripped the front brake after giving everything a good hoover (even wore a mask while I did the strip down), cleaned and re-greased the pivots and springs in the hub. Happy to find the shoes were hardly worn.
    So that's everything at the front end done.
    Another couple of cheeky runs up and the street just to test my handy work.
    Happy with my efforts as the suspension does exactly what it's supposed to do, nice smooth damping and recoil now and brake stops like $#!t sticks to you're under-crackers.:D
    Now all I have to do is recover from the frost bite and chilblains;)
     
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  17. Sceptic Al

    Sceptic Al Well-Known Member

    Now that the 'big freeze' has ended up here on the NW Frontier of England and Mrs Al has finished supervising the redecoration of the lounge I finally got back in the man-cave to give 'Miss Whiplash' some TLC and a good rub down with Autoglym.:)

    I removed drain plug from oil tank and let 1/2 gallon of brown sludge dribble out. Replaced sump plug, (more brown sludge), fitted a cunning mod, (combined sump plug, filter and magnet). Removed and cleaned gauze filters from the oil tank and timing case. Replaced cartridge filter, checked all the oil feed line connections and put the new kick start on.

    Refilled with nice clean 50 SAE oil, (as per the book).

    Give her a gentle kick over to get the oil well and truly round all those important little nooks and crannies, top off the tank and run again, deep joy no leaks.:D

    All that stands between 'Miss Whiplash' and long hot sunny days bimbling around the Lake District is a valid MOT so there's some new bar grips and bar end mirrors to fit and a new light switch to stop the flickering, but that's for tomorrow if I get permission from the 'Long haired general'

    A good days work well done and now kicking back enjoying a well earned drop of rouge 'vino collapso'. :D
     
    • Like Like x 4
  18. om15

    om15 Active Member

    Sep 5, 2016
    107
    43
    dorset
    Just another comment on fecked, being local I often buy the odd bit for my BSA, I was in there for some oil last week, had a wide range of bikes for sale, a very old BSA for £9,600 down to a BSA Bantam project for £1,700, so if in the area recommend a look in, has a coffee machine and people who like talking about bikes.

    For those in the area down here, another hidden gem is http://www.g-c-s-motorcycles.co.uk/ , I have had a spark plug insert done here, first class swaging insert, very professional, and again, always time for a chat.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  19. Rich Bryce

    Rich Bryce Dead Eye Dick

    Sep 18, 2015
    2,987
    1,000
    Bedford
    And all to satisfy the bloomin' Yanks.
     
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