Baffle removal

Certainly is, thanks for doing the groundwork! I don't think i'd have stuck a hole saw down the exhaust otherwise.

 

Thanks for posting a pic - nice work

I can see why I had trouble getting it started without the pilot drill, because you're cutting in line with the circumference of the pipe...I had to resort to 41mm to sit just in side of it. I know what I'm trying to say, at least

 

finally did mine yesterday afternoon ,took a lot longer than anticipated but worth it ,filed weld down till I got the lines where weld was no longer present a few taps with a mallet ensured weld was broken ,inserted broom handle good half hour later out the baffle came spent another half hour filing around cleaning surfaces so it wasn't so much as an interference fit drilled hole liquid metal glued nut and jobs a gooden put a vid on you tube,of the new noise, will try and up load later

 

I know this is a bit old but I'd be really interested to know how you did this without removing the carbon end cap.

I think I'll start off with just removing the restrictor plates using the hole saw method, see how I like it, but down the line I'd probably like to give myself the option to take the baffle in or out as I please. And removing those looks like something I really don't wanna have to do. But I have a feeling that there will be no way around it if I want to fit a nut and bolt that would hold the baffle in place...

 

Which other end cans can be used with a lowboy for a 17 speed triple. would I need a custom link pipe ?
It would be nice to get a different can with an easially removable baffle and keep the arrow can untouched

 

scorpion ,sc project do them I think

 

Will they go straight into the arrow 3 into one pipe

 

Abit late, but better to post it than not to. @mahmoth

I used two different sizes of circular heads on a air compressor tool, much like a dremel, but on air, dremel works fine aswell but air goes much faster.
Take your time so you doesnt end up scraping/damaging the carbon cap.
holding the tool in an angle so you dont hit it really is what i did.
Used about 30-40 minutes on both cans (yes, I did took my time )

Dont have to go to far down on the welded edge as that only is 2-3mm deep, use a hammer or something from the front when you reached about this point, to force the line/gap between the baffle and the outer exhaust cap to be visible.

When you think you gone far enough with the powertools, use something like a broomstick og metalpole and lead the can over it, and smashing it down on it (This "broomstick/pole" method requires you to have removed the Euro4 disc with the 5mm hole)

In regards the option to put it back in, you solve that easy by tapping a hole that you can screw in a screw on. it sits fairly tight even without the screw but it will be sufficient to keep it there.

Before the baffle is removed, so you can see what i've done.

 

If I do this, would I need a PC5
What happens MOT time?

 

My R was already set for low boy I believe there’s a custom map in ecu that needs activating but don’t take my word for it , never had a problem when it comes to mot and noise

 

I cannot wait for Thursday.500 mile service!

 

Best option in my book, got the low boy on my 2012, drops nearly 7 kilos and what weight there is is low down. Still run mine with the baffle in place as it’s loud enough with the cat removed.

 

Where exactly does the bagel go on the Lowboy Brian? I bought a couple from Sainsbury's to try with my under-seat cans, but anything over 5,000 rpm causes them to fly out



I'll get my coat.

 

lol, just corrected auto correct!

 

Low boy debaffled before puncture stopped play

 

That's exactly how I did mine at the weekend..pretty easy really..just remember to use oil to cool the teeth and keep the drill slow..I just used normal 3 in 1 oil...
Not a huge sound improvement but an improvement non the less, will weigh up whether to remove the baffles after its first service.

 

Glad it worked out for you Dar - a slow speed is definitely the key...and don't rush or apply too much pressure. I bought this cutting paste on Amazon which worked very well.

As you say...a small improvement, but well worth it

 

Hello everyone,
sorry to go back an old post ...
and for my english ... I'm french

This post is very interesting!

I have a Speed Triple RS Crystal White

I have a quick question, you've removed the big baffle, but the cape too with the small 5mm hole?

I wonder if I just have to remove the cap with the 5mm hole or remove the big baffle too
I'm afraid of making too much noise ...

If i remove the cap with the 5mm hole, is much better than the original nose ?

Thank you very much !

 

Your English is probably better than mine...and I'm English

I'd recommend removing the disc (cap) with the 5mm hole first - and see how you like it (as you will have read, it makes a slight, but good difference).

Then think about removing the main baffle if you want it louder, but ensure you make provision for refitting them if you find it too loud.

I definitely wouldn't remove the main baffle, if you're going to leave the disc in place.