Aircanuck's Budget Restore

Discussion in 'Builds & Projects' started by AirCanuck, Mar 23, 2019.

  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  1. Callumity

    Callumity Elite Member

    Feb 25, 2017
    3,358
    800
    Nr Biggar
    Nope. The same overspray for paint to which you refer. It prevents the paint oxidising......
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  2. AirCanuck

    AirCanuck Member

    Aug 3, 2018
    70
    18
    Canada
    Gents, best way to polish up plastic chromesque parts such as mirror backs and tail light housings?
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  3. AirCanuck

    AirCanuck Member

    Aug 3, 2018
    70
    18
    Canada
    It would seem that many people recommend sanding first with 800 grit and then with 1500 grit sandpaper and then hitting it with polish to really remove the stubborn pitting. Thoughts?
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. Callumity

    Callumity Elite Member

    Feb 25, 2017
    3,358
    800
    Nr Biggar
    Experiment......

    Much depends on how hard the alloy is, the depth of pitting etc., Whichever, you are looking to get back to clean metal with minimal removal of material. I could see myself using very fine wet and dry as described with soapy water once I felt steel wool was too rough to get to a polish.
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  5. Hamburg

    Hamburg Senior Member

    Dec 12, 2018
    788
    193
    Oxford, UK
    Personally I’d keep the pitting, I quite like some natural patina, it makes the bike look a bit more orginal and sort of tells it’s story.

    I sold my 1973 Yamaha TX 500 last year which was a 7000 miles one owner North American bike, it was completely unrestored, only the paintwork had been done. The originality and patina really made it, so I was very careful when cleaning the alloy and chrome, I deliberately left some of the pitting and oxidation rather than over polishing it.

    [​IMG]
     
    • Like Like x 4
  6. AirCanuck

    AirCanuck Member

    Aug 3, 2018
    70
    18
    Canada
    Hmmm. Something to consider.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  7. AirCanuck

    AirCanuck Member

    Aug 3, 2018
    70
    18
    Canada
    gents,

    Forgive me for re-hashing this. I am about to order the chain and sprockets.
    I have the sizes etc squared away, sprockets will be JT.

    I have the choice between UMI O-ring chain ($220 with sprockets) and a gold (only gold available apparently) D.I.D X-ring chain (about $183 with sprockets). DID is well known... This is the description you will find of UMI chains at retailer websites:

    "UMI O-Ring chains are built in Japan where reliability and quality is guaranteed. UMI O-Ring chain uses the ultimate state of the art technology to ensure performance and durability. All UMI O-Ring chains have solid rollers and bushings for longer wear life and reinforced rollers for higher impact resistance. UMI O-Ring chains also have a unique protruding bushing, designed to reduce kinking and extend O-Ring life. The O-Ring helps to increase the performance of the chain and provide better sealing to keep dirt out and lubrication in. UMI O-Ring chains are recommended for ATV’s and motorcycles originally equipped with O-Ring chains or in extreme conditions where standard chains do not perform as well."

    I would appreciate some opinions if anyone has 2 cents to offer.

    cheers!
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  8. Callumity

    Callumity Elite Member

    Feb 25, 2017
    3,358
    800
    Nr Biggar
    Sounds like UMI is overkill and designed for off road conditions. The DiD would be regarded as more than adequate over here. Your money, your choice.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  9. AirCanuck

    AirCanuck Member

    Aug 3, 2018
    70
    18
    Canada
    My headers look pretty beyond saving from any kind of chrome/shine perspective. What do you guys think of a flat black header into chrome pipes?
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  10. AirCanuck

    AirCanuck Member

    Aug 3, 2018
    70
    18
    Canada
    Just bought 400, 800, 1000, 2000 grit paper so I'm doing it right.

    Then I'll experiment with mothers and autosol to see which works better. Finally I may use a dupli-color laquer finish to coat it.
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  11. AirCanuck

    AirCanuck Member

    Aug 3, 2018
    70
    18
    Canada
    Folks, I am having a very hard time removing cakes on grease etc from the painted sections of the wheels. I have tried degreaser and auto Glym custom wheel cleaning. Any suggestions? See the photo below, especially in the recessed "spokes". I have tried brushes, toothbrush, rag rolled into a point etc.

    Cheers!

    MVIMG_20190430_190103.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Hamburg

    Hamburg Senior Member

    Dec 12, 2018
    788
    193
    Oxford, UK
    I’d mask them off and just give them a very light coat of satin black
     
    • Like Like x 1
  13. Callumity

    Callumity Elite Member

    Feb 25, 2017
    3,358
    800
    Nr Biggar
    Is it even grease or just the old finish? If it WAS grease your de-greaser would shift it. I would do as Hamburg suggests as you are deep in the land of diminishing returns!
     
    • Like Like x 1
  14. thebiglad

    thebiglad Old fart, still riding !

    Sep 25, 2013
    5,066
    1,000
    Central France
    Have you tried aerosol Brake and Clutch cleaner ? Cleans grease off just about anything. I get mine from Toolstation, about £2.50 a can.
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Useful Useful x 1
  15. AirCanuck

    AirCanuck Member

    Aug 3, 2018
    70
    18
    Canada
    Another one, even 220 grit won't remove all fine pitting even in an hour of sanding. Would you go more coarse or just accept the fine pitting at this point?
     
  16. Callumity

    Callumity Elite Member

    Feb 25, 2017
    3,358
    800
    Nr Biggar
    Go back a few pages! You either content yourself with ‘good enough’ or go large and get them vapour blasted having removed/protected the bearings.
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  17. AirCanuck

    AirCanuck Member

    Aug 3, 2018
    70
    18
    Canada
    Well gents I have spent about 9 or 10 hours and one of the wheels is all sanded. Just gave it a wash and soon I will hit it with polish and see how it looks... Unfortunately still the rear to go which is in much worse shape. They won't look perfect but they'll look darned good! I have mothers and autosol, what do you guys like better for a shine and a protective layer?
     
  18. freck

    freck Elite Member

    May 4, 2017
    1,718
    750
    Preston, Lancs, UK
    I use Belgom Alu, it’s a great metal polish, not as coarse as Autosol and leaves a protective wax coating.
    I find it perfect for a finishing polish.
     
  19. AirCanuck

    AirCanuck Member

    Aug 3, 2018
    70
    18
    Canada
    Thanks for all the advice on restoring aluminum wheels. One out of two is complete, about 11 hours of work. Not perfect, some fine pitting but realistically it looks fantastic. Still have to get the black looking nice, maybe a nice clear coat I'm not sure.

    Grits:
    220
    400
    800
    1000
    2000
    Mothers aluminum polish

    Before and after...

    MVIMG_20190413_212057.jpg

    MVIMG_20190413_212105.jpg

    MVIMG_20190505_215947.jpg

    MVIMG_20190505_215905.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 9
    • Agree Agree x 2
  20. freck

    freck Elite Member

    May 4, 2017
    1,718
    750
    Preston, Lancs, UK
    Superb job mate, that looks fantastic.:grinning:
     
    • Agree Agree x 4
    • Like Like x 1
Loading...

Share This Page