69 120r

Top tips as ever , I didnt think about the fuel filler wicking fuel , It was a bit scruffy so thought it deserved a coat , will sand off and just leave it painted with some tank sealer upto but not the contact face .
Painted my front hub this morning so should be able to get the front wheel laced sometime next week .
My machinist has also promised the crank will be balanced by end of Monday so should be able to get the engine back together , Got tyres too , nearly all the expensive bits , paid for other than the exhaust system which I will probably try and order next week sometime .
Do the balance pipes on the 69 make a noticable diference to the engine and considered worthwhile other than correct fitment . Also is there a brand I should go for for ease of fit quality , think Emgo are the ones I have seen so far .

 

Yeh , feel things are starting to work out now ,bit frustrating at times , usual problems I suppose , faulty or crap parts and waiting for others to come good with promises of providing a service in a timeframe .
Back to paint and hopefully the last question , I am feeling a little nervous about clear coating over the tank water slide decal and its application .
Is it best to flat entire tank in its present state then apply the water slide or apply waterslide then flat/ scotch carefully up to it ? when clear coating can just apply as normal , one or two mist coats allow to become tacky then full wet coat , or should the mist coats be allowed to become almost touch dry ? I sure dont want to have to strip laquer off and ruin stripes if possible . I probably should have bought a spare decal to practice on in hind sight .

 

Hmm thanks darkman appreciated, so could well turn into a nightmare . After a lot of online searching it did seem very hit and miss as to sucess or not . I wish I had a spare to practice with . Wil, give it some more thought .
For the striping do you use one lart enamels and this clearcoats fine , I could use 2k to be sure that my stripes dont wrinkle too ! Will leave tank a week or to to fully cure before next stage I think .

 

That green is a lovely colour , so the stripes and water slide decal are on top of that tank , that would make my life easier , don’t fancy rubbing tank down after a disaster Thanks for nefarious lead . I may know someone who can do it but need to check as local so handy if he can .

 

I just spent half hr looking at my re mudguard , I am still messing about trying to line it up correctly for drilling , I have put my rear wheel in , but when it looks right with the wheel seems a bit off with grab handle locations . I have come to the conclusion as cant seem to find a clear pic from rear with seat up that the bridge bracket which seems to be offset fits with the wider space to the left . ,so when viewed from behind the mudguard is more to the right in the opening . Is the gap between grab handle and mudguard always tighter on the right of bike when viewed from behind . As expected it to be equal . Does anyone have a nice pic taken from the rear looking along bike with saddle off or up ? Would be most handy as really need to get this thing drilled .

 

Thanks , I think I getting ocd in my old age , yes got the right bracket at least so that’s a relief . I think I will put the tyre on to help eye it all

 

Thanks , I think I getting ocd in my old age , yes got the right bracket at least so that’s a relief . I think I will put the tyre on to help eye it all

 

Cool , so the grab handle in my mind is in fact the rail , I do have a chrome pillion grab handle but that I will have to rivnut to saddle but thats a job for another day . One of the reasons for my concern was that I seem to use the full amount of adjustment on the rail via its oval holes ,ie one side pushed in one pulled out to get thing to look about right and it to line centrally with guard . I should be used to dealing with brittish built vehicles and things not fitting well ! That and shite paten parts of course.
I had hoped front wheel would have been built by now but cwc sent only half of the correct spokes bt pleased to say replacements arrived today so may do that over the weekend .
Getting paranoid now but I am right in thinking if the rear axel is in the dropouts equally ,I used a spacer as a spacer if that makees sense (see Pic )then the wheel should be aligned if have built in right wheel offset of course.

 

Talking of front wheels , I fitted new bearings but am a little unsure if I have it assembled right



Fairly sure I have the correct components , Firstly I fitted the dust cap ,bearing support washer on the threaded side this sat up against shoulder in hub then fitted bearing then threaded cap and tightned up to bearing all nice and solid bearing cant move .Then inserted spindel as far as it would go , then basically drove the other bearing down up to spindle shoulder trapping it , then dust cap but this leaves after c clip about half inch for bearing to move ? this cant be right ?

 

Not had a lot of time lately but I did spend a few hours yesterday . After getting the crank balanced with the new rods I started to get to grips with the engine reassembly.

After a dry assembly with the cams in and a bit of a wiggle and measure I decided the cam bushes were not worth changing . A varity on this project !
Opted for some nice new Thunder engineering rods for the build certainly blingy and things of beauty . Glad to support a British company rather than unknown quality foreign options .

 

after a dry assembly with the cams in and a bit of a wiggle and measure I decided the cam bushes were not worth changing . A variety on this project !
Opted for some nice new Thunder engineering rods for the build certainly blingy and things of beauty . Glad to support a brittish company rather than unknown quality foreign options .



New bearings fitted

 

Engine cases now ready for closing probably tomorrow with luck