1967/1969 Bonnie Rebuild Desert Sled Project - Any Advice

Discussion in 'Vintage Classics' started by Sundance, Sep 15, 2021.

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  1. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

    Oct 26, 2015
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    Here are the 63 and 67 heads. 63 with smaller ports and valves has none and 67 head has inserts.

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  2. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    OK, this makes sense and speedrattle offered an elegant explanation of work needed to install the bushing appropriately. It seems with the timing gears seating against the cam ends the issue is to make sure there is enough clearance between the bushings and shoulder of the cams.
     
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  3. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    cool. i did not know that.
     
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  4. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    #104 speedrattle, Dec 17, 2021
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2021
    if you saw the disaster i call my shop you wouldnt use the word elegant anywhere.

    but the issue with the bushing is easy to visualize. imagine that you pressed a loose camwheel onto a cam in a vise and tightened up the nut. the space between the inner surface of the camwheel and the inner surface of the shoulder on the camshaft has to be bigger than the bush. if the bush is bigger than the space available for it you will lock it up when you tighten the nut.

    no specs. if the camshaft can turn in the bush, you should be good.
     
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  5. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    OK, got it. I know you explained this clearly before. I suppose as I get ready to install these I am doing the measure twice, cut once thing. For me it will be measuring more than twice.
     
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  6. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    for the timing side, just slip the bushes onto the cam and make sure the shoulder sticks up above the bush a wee bit.

    for the drive side, i dunno. you said yours were different lengths. see how deep the bore in the cases is for them. if the bushes stick up too far the drive side cam lobes will jam against them when you try to put the cases together. you can cut em before you put them in or have the shop mill em in place. but yours may be fine.

    it seems the suppliers are trying to sell cam bushes that dont need fitting. i dont like the too-loose IDs of the ones available lately, but pre-cut drive side lengths might be a good idea
     
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  7. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    I've taken a look again at the bushing I have. I think most, if not all are good as they are. For one I may need to follow your instructions to remove a bit on a whetstone.
     
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  8. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    I am going to replace some (or all) of my engine fasteners as well as engine to frame fasteners. I would think using stainless fasteners would be a good idea, however I am wondering if there is any issue with this (stainless to aluminum)? Also, I see replacement fasteners on a number of vintage internet sites, but I’m wondering if some members have comments on the best places to buy these replacement fasteners? Thanks to all.
     
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  9. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    I picked up my engine cases from Sean at Motorelic (https://motorelic.com) here in Northern Virginia. He vapor honed my engine cases, head and rocker boxes. I was considering not having this done since I had cleaned the cases quite nicely, but I’m really pleased with the results! Sean did a great job and he has some very cool builds in progress now.



    I then drove my head down the road a bit to Rob at Virginia Vintage Cycle (http://virginiavintagecycle.com). He was gracious to take a look at some of my problematic parts, especially my pitted cams and tappets. Looks like I’m in the market for new cams and tappets now as the pitting was too deep to consider then serviceable. Rob went over his head rebuilding process. He also took a look at the place in my head where the head bolt hole breaks through the inside of the head (and is plugged by a steel insert) and says he sees this on a lot of heads and is not a problem the way it is. He was putting several bikes together and offered me several build tips, specifically on a transmission he was installing - which will save me from some mistakes I was probably going to make. All this to say that he was very generous with his time and knowledge. He also has some very cool custom bikes in process as well as restorations and is very busy these days. Glad he could fit me in.

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  10. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

    Oct 26, 2015
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    Nice work, make sure you scrub them well with soapy water and use a bottle brush and air line blower in all the oil passage ways.
     
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  11. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    Definitely! Sean said as such - as does everyone else. Taking a crack at it tonight.
     
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  12. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    Oil Drill Way Questions: My 1969 T120R engine had a Routt 750 kit with no oil way in the Cylinder, and my right (timing) side case has a plug in the oil drill way. So it last ran with tappets without the holes for oil passage. The new 750 Cylinder I purchased has the oil drill way. Since I am going to have to replace my old tappets (pitting and scoring) I am going to get the exhaust tappets with the oil hole. My question is about removing/drilling out the plug of the oil way on my timing side case. So, do I drill this out with an appropriate diameter drill bit? Also, how far do I need to drill the hole? Perhaps this will become apparent while drilling?If any of you have done this before I’d appreciate your comments on how to proceed. Once it is drilled, do I then need to install a hollow dowel? Thanks for your comments!

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  13. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

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    If you are going to drill the bung out then it will have to be the same size as the hole in the barrels so that you can fit the new dowel, i always block the hole as modern cams do not req the oil feed to the exhaust cam.
     
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  14. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    ^^^yes. i always plug em. i cant remember th eyear triumph started hardening their camshafts, but unless youre going to use old ones from a swap meet all the cams you will find these days are hardened and dont require th etimed oil feed from the tappets. if you do undo the plug you will decrease the oil flow elsewhere in the engine by the amount now going --unnecessarily-- to the tappet feed.

    if you do drill it out you will usually find that it has been plugged with a short grub screw or piece of a bolt, unless your PO just hammered in a piece of dowel. you will have to drill down into the plug and EZ Out it if its threaded, or become creative if it isn't. at the other end of the drillway on the cases there is a bolt screwed in that will let you gain access to the plug from the other end.

    i would assume the hole has been tapped for a screw-in plug, so i would try the EZ Out first. once you have it out you will need to fit a replacement dowel, like darkman says, or if the hole has been drilled oversize to be threaded, a larger tube with a similar ID.

    lots of fussing for no gain, IMO
     
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  15. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    hey

    on your fasteners, your motor is a 69 so all the fasteners will be SAE unified. you can buy replacements at any good hardware store. i say a good store because they will stock bolts in 1/4-inch increments in the UNF threads you will need. i am lucky enough to have an industrial supply store near me that has everything i need.

    if you want stock a good source is Mitch Klemph

    http://www.klempfsbritishparts.com/triumph

    you can order by part number or get him on th ephone and tell him what you need.

    if you are also buying fasteners for your 67 chassis you can replace them with SAE almost entirely or go with mitch for the original BS CEI stuff.

    i always use 1/4-20 allen head fasteners in the cases of later motors that i assemble, because i think using an allen driver is easier on the threads than occasionally having to hammer an impact driver on them. very quick and you dont bugger the heads. you can buy these by the piece at your good hardware store or buy kits from any british supplier
     
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  16. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    Speedrattle, OK thanks. Some more to think about. It just seems good to have a bit more oil moving. But it also seems like there quite a few folks don't see the need.
     
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  17. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    Thanks for the comment on stainless fasteners. I will have to check out klempfs as well as the local hardware store - though good ones are hard to find these days.
     
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  18. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    I finally got some time to install my cam bushings. The cases were very clean. I put the bushings in the freezer for a couple of hours and then installed them with the driver tool sold by Lowbrow customs. Then used the reaming tool for the bushings with the cases bolted together. I fitted the cams and put the cases together and it seems that they are a good fit. Now on to replacing some bearings.

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  19. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    bearings are easy except for gesrbox layshaft needle bearings.

    they need to be pushed in far enough that they dont stand proud of the thrust washets, but not so far that they dont locate the same thrust washers in position.

    look in the manual. you dont need the tool but you have to do it right
     
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  20. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    Thanks for this. I was trying to remember which bearing needed this treatment so thanks for the reminder. I've been taking it slow with this so as to not have too many do-overs. Still considering whether to drill the oil way or not.
     
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