1967/1969 Bonnie Rebuild Desert Sled Project - Any Advice

Thanks SR

 

Final drive chain question. I am trying to determine if my final drive chain is OK to use again - probably not. But using the directions from the Triumph workshop manual, section A13, it reads to check for excessive wear you, “scribe two marks on a flat table exactly 12 1/2 inches apart, place the chain opposite the two marks. When the chain is compressed to its minimum free length the marks should coincide with two pivot pins 20 links apart.” In the case of my old chain when I measure it against 12 1/2 inches I am only 19 links apart. So I am reading this as my chain is stretched way beyond where it should be. I am reading this correctly? Thanks.

 

I think you are right on this. I've replaced the sprocket with a stock 46 tooth one, so assume I'd need a stock length chain. Do you happen to know what length/how may links that would be for a new chain? I see some 530 chains in various lengths, like 107, 110 and 120.

 

Thank you!

 

Yes, I replaced the gearbox sprocket along with the rear wheel sprocket. Looking at the various chain lengths for sale, it looks like I will need a chain breaker/riveter in order to fit a new chain so thanks for the advice. So in the end I am looking for a 530 chain of about 110 links or so to fit? Do you have any advice on a brand of chain? Thanks again SR!

 

Thanks all for the chain advice. A new one is coming.

 

Primary chain oiler tube (E4704) - I’m wondering if there is any advice about installing this tube. It seems that you simply insert the tube into the case oil feed opening and then into the clip (E4705) that holds the tube over the primary sprocket? I’d imagine it should be trimmed if it is too long? I am not sure if this was even on the bike when I took it apart. Thanks.

 

Thanks Iron. I've got the clip and the tube so will put it on. It does seem like the sprocket would be getting lots of oil without this.

 

Stator stud nut problem- So I just got my brand new stator studs and new nuts, nice and shiny. I was adjusting things to get the right clearance between stator and rotor and once it looked good I went to torque the nuts to 20 ft lb. I got to 15 ft lb with the nuts and then when going to 20 the upper left stud nut would not torque, but kept spinning. Stud was fine in the case. So it looks like this brand new nut failed, and just kept spinning. Problem is I can’t get it off the stud now. I tried gripping it with pliers and pulling while I tried to remove it but it stayed. I tried to insert a small blade between the nut and stator to put some pressure and rotated but it wouldn’t some off. I ending up taking the stator off by patiently unscrewing the studs one by one until I could get the stator off - with the stud still attached. So I’m trying to figure out how to get the nut off. I’ve put a vise grip around the stator stud and held the nut, pulling on the vise grips while rotating. Any ideas about how to get this nut off. Obviously I will have to get a new nut. Perhaps I should try to cut the nut off with a Dremel cut off blade. Thanks for any advice. Has anyone ever had this problem with one of these type of nuts that are locking nuts?

 

By the way, I talked with the guys at Classic British Spares, where I purchased the new stator studs and nut. The guy said the stator doesn’t need 15 to 20 lbs, that was too much. Said 10 lbs was enough with a bit of loctite. Of course the manual says 20 lbs. I’d be interested in any one else’s take on this - as well as any other torque setting in the manual that might need to be managed differently. Thanks.