Featured Resurrecting 1966 Tiger T100ss

Discussion in 'Builds & Projects' started by DaveQ, Aug 14, 2022.

  1. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

    Oct 26, 2015
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    Very nice :)
     
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  2. SuperDave156

    SuperDave156 Senior Member
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    Yes. Nice clocks. I sent mine off yesterday for refurb. For only 16565 miles your bike has had a hard life. That's half the miles mine has. What a saga your forks have been. Mine are not as bad but I'm thinking they are not standard. They have internal springs and chrome legs. Many years ago someone (in Roebucks Motorcycles, Rayner's Lane, North London actually) suggested they were BSA forks. They are too soft and the front mudguard has a dent where it hit the frame. Keep up the good work on the steep learning curve Dave!
     
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  3. DaveQ

    DaveQ Well-Known Member

    Jul 28, 2022
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    I’m afraid the mileage probably isn’t genuine, at least for my bike although its “possible” it could be, so I had it left on as I think it looks a bit better than just a blank page. I’ve long since come to the conclusion that most of the bits I’ve got are traders left over jumble that were probably bought in to do a make over. I had two sets of forks, neither of which were from the original bike. The Triumph fork parts were from a bike at least two years later and the only useable parts were the top shrouds and the yoke. The other set were Norton Roadholders. I guess I’m just lucky that I’ve got a matching set of numbers.
     
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  4. SuperDave156

    SuperDave156 Senior Member
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    I don't have matching numbers.
    Frame is H8297 (1959)
    Engine is H35612 (1964)
    The V5 says it's a 1964
    It was bought as a box of bits and I have no knowledge of it's history before 1981.
     
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  5. DaveQ

    DaveQ Well-Known Member

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  6. SuperDave156

    SuperDave156 Senior Member
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    Dec 11, 2023
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    Very useful. Thanks Dave.
     
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  7. DaveQ

    DaveQ Well-Known Member

    Jul 28, 2022
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    Just sticking this picture of someone else’s ‘66 T100ss to remind myself what it’s supposed to look like if it ever gets finished.

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  8. DaveQ

    DaveQ Well-Known Member

    Jul 28, 2022
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    #88 DaveQ, May 2, 2024
    Last edited: May 4, 2024
    No progress on the bike for quite some while I’m afraid. Apart from alternating periods of not feeling as if I’m progressing anywhere, a couple of bouts of man flu and no heating in the garage, its taking more and more of effort to feel at all positive about the whole b****y thing. To cap it all I’ve realised that I’m going to have to do the fork legs over again.

    On the plus side though I haven’t been completely wasting my time. I’ve spent a little time going over other things that are missing or will have to be replaced and have indulged myself in a bit of retail therapy trying to get hold of a few of those bits which require a bit of careful selection to get the right parts. Invaluable in that has been getting a copy of the ‘Triumph 350/500 Unit Construction Twins Bible’. Therein lies a wealth of information for any restoration.

    The most obvious and probably most expensive single thing that’s going to be needed is a new carburettor. The one I have is corroded and completely the wrong type for the model. It has however, a choke mechanism controlled by a lever on the handlebars via a cable. Surprisingly, I do have those bits still attached to the bars even though they look a bit worse for wear. The correct carb is an Amal Monobloc with a manual choke incorporated in the carb body. The ‘correct’ choke mechanism looks like the bent end of a wire coat hanger sticking out of the top of the body. It’s operation features fiddling about between the legs while still on the move after warm-up to shut it off, which leaves a bit to be desired. So the cable operated option is a rather better option to be retained if possible.

    I spent a fruitful half hour on the phone to the manufactures, who are still with us and were extremely helpful, to find that they can supply a new unit with the choke mechanism adapted to be operated by cable. Two days later the new carb arrived complete with modifications. I was also able to track down a pancake air filter with adapters to complete the ensemble.

    Another bit needing replacement is the Patent Plate on the engine timing cover. The old one is just an ally triangle. All semblance of lettering has long since been polished off. New plates with various scripts are available, some with legends that were never seen on any Triumph. With the help of Monty’s Classic Motorcycles I’ve been able to get hold of one with, I think, the correct numbering.

    I’ve also obtained a pair of knee pads for the petrol tank from the same source. This was not quite so easy as there are several shaped pads but not necessarily the same shape as the advertising photos turns up once ordered. Old photos show that the T100ss uses pads where the upper curve follows the indented shape on the tank. This needs to be right otherwise the paint line, tank line and pad line look a bit of a mess if they aren’t concentric. So far I’ve got a couple of pairs, the latest is the right shape but seems to be too big for the tank. That might need a bit more work.

    The horn. Nothing like that in the pile at all. 1966 was the arrival year of 12 volt systems superseding the old 6 volt one. My parts list specifies a Horn Lucas type 8H. There’s all sorts of horns on sale varying in price from about £10 up to £120. A ‘near enough’ 8H replica was able to be obtained about mid way in that price range.

    One of the tools that seems like it may be quite useful is an engine stand. All the best refurbishers on YouTube seem to have one using it to steady the engine while rebuilding. I found a second hand one on EBay at a reasonable price and bought it in for when the engine is ready to be reassembled.

    Back to Amal and their white handlebar grips which were used on almost all 1966 models in the Triumph range. Sourced through a contact listed in the above mentioned ‘ Bible’. They look like a pretty good replica from the photos available. They were apparently universally unpopular in their time due to staining from oily/grubby hands. These ones won’t be getting that amount of use so may keep their colour for a little longer.

    All those bits now sit on a shelf with the refurbed clocks awaiting further attention as they become due. Quite when that will be remains to be seen.

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  9. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

    Oct 26, 2015
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    Well done on sorting the parts, it's worth doing it right even if it takes a bit more time.
     
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  10. DaveQ

    DaveQ Well-Known Member

    Jul 28, 2022
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    24 Sept 24

    I cleaned out the T100’s fuel tank a few months ago. The inside was fairly clean except for a few smallish patches of rust along the walls. I spent a week with vinegar and bits and pieces shaking the tank up and got to the point where the rust had sort of faded to what looked like just a dark stain. On reflection though I may have used the wrong vinegar I had diluted it down, possibly too much. Anyway, having started on the Bonnie tank, which was a whole different kettle of fish, and having got fairly good results so far, I thought to have another go at it.

    This time I’ve used White Vinegar, undiluted and with a dash of salt. So far that’s been cooking for a day. We’ll see how it goes this time.

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  11. Baza

    Baza Elite Member

    Jul 25, 2020
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    I may have recommended this database before but whatever Meriden or pre Meriden machine you have you will find all the documentation you will ever need right here https://triumphoracle.co.uk/. I bought it ages ago and found that it also contains useful mods such as converting the swing arm on my Tbird from bushes to needle roller bearings etc.
     
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  12. joe mc donald

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    Dec 26, 2014
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    @DaveQ No they are definitely a pair of clocks. Just time has taken it's toll on them.
     
  13. DaveQ

    DaveQ Well-Known Member

    Jul 28, 2022
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    #93 DaveQ, Sep 24, 2024
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2024
    24 Sept 24

    I cleaned out the T100’s fuel tank a few months ago. The inside was fairly clean except for a few smallish patches of rust along the walls. I spent a week with vinegar and bits and pieces shaking the tank up and got to the point where the rust had sort of faded to what looked like just a dark stain. On reflection though I may have used the wrong vinegar I had diluted it down, possibly too much. Anyway, having started on the Bonnie tank, which was a whole different kettle of fish, and having got fairly good results so far, I thought to have another go at it.

    This time I’ve used White Vinegar, undiluted and with a dash of salt. So far that’s been cooking for a day. We’ll see how it goes.


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  14. DaveQ

    DaveQ Well-Known Member

    Jul 28, 2022
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    Thanks Baza. I do use the copy on the TOMCC website. I’ve spent many a happy hour in those pages. There’s a lot of info there. I did once try to buy the CD thro them but it wasn’t successful unfortunatly.
     
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  15. Baza

    Baza Elite Member

    Jul 25, 2020
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    After I bought my copy I had a number of queries and in doing so got to know the author/owner very well and commented on the two spreadsheets in the database, compression ratios and gear ratios could be improved. This resulted in me completely rewriting the two spreadsheets that you will now see in the database.

    As you are accessing it on the TOMCC website be very, very careful of the sole forum moderator and website designer. He was the reason the committee chucked me out for fear of him getting the hump, at me and my mate continually taking him to task, and taking his ball home. As far as the committee go he walks on water.
     
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  16. DaveQ

    DaveQ Well-Known Member

    Jul 28, 2022
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    Thanks for the heads-up Baza. My problems were mostly to do with navigation thro’ the site. Very clunky Seems a lot better these days though. :)
     
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  17. DaveQ

    DaveQ Well-Known Member

    Jul 28, 2022
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    #97 DaveQ, Oct 7, 2024
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2024
    After a week soaking and shaking the inside of the Tigers tank is, I think, about as good as it’s going to get. After soaking the uncovered portion of the tanks interior gets covered by a sort of scum that can be displaced by shaking. Finally I’ve washed it out and used the power washer jet as far as possible. Unfortunately I can’t get a direct shot at one side of the tank due to the offset filler opening and the internal hump.
    Anyway it’s clean metal for the most part and I sprayed the interior with a marine grade, anti corrosion fogging spray to hopefully keep the corrosion at bay.

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