Another T595 Project In The Mix.

Hahaha.
Right let’s address this post above….
No1, you never typed all that in, you just asked AI what to do after laying a bike up since 2018..………
No2, The bike is now on the road and legal, so none of that is now necessary,
No3, I did most of the above to get it legal and back on the road,

If you genuinely typed the waffle above, I appologise for being blunt, but if you’d have read the whole thread you’d see that your post wasn’t needed as the bike is now better than it’s been in a LONG time, but thanks for your thoughts and taking the time to post anyway.

 

1. Fuel System
You mentioned the tank looks full of bubbles—I'd definitely start by draining the old fuel completely. After sitting for so long, the gas has likely gone bad and could cause issues with the fuel pump, injectors, and lines. Here's what to do:

• Drain and flush the tank, and check for any rust or sediment buildup.
• Replace the fuel filter, and inspect the fuel pump to ensure it's not gummed up. If the fuel pump's stuck, it might need a clean or replacement.

Add fresh fuel and some fuel system cleaner before trying to fire it up.

Result……fuel tank stripped of paint, prepped, painted, filled with fresh fuel,

2. Check the Battery
If it’s been sitting for a few years, the battery is likely dead or degraded. Even if it shows some charge, it may not have the power needed to start the bike.

• Hook up a fresh battery or fully charge the old one and see if it holds charge.
• Check the terminals for corrosion, and clean them if necessary.

Result…..Shorai lithium battery fitted.

3. Fluids and Seals
Check all fluids, especially the oil and coolant. Old oil sitting in the engine can cause sludge buildup.

• Drain the engine oil and replace it with fresh oil.
• Check the coolant system for leaks or low levels, and top it off if needed.
• Inspect the brake fluid, clutch fluid, and change them if they look old or discolored.

Result….Oil, water, fork oil and seals and brakes overhauled.

4. Spark Plugs
If the bike hasn’t been started since 2018, the spark plugs might need a refresh.

• Remove and inspect the plugs. If they’re fouled or worn out, replace them.
• Double-check the ignition system for proper spark when you try to start it.

Result….No need.

5. Tires
Even if the tires look okay visually, sitting for a long time can cause flat spots or degrade the rubber.

• Inspect them for any dry rot or cracks and consider replacing them, especially if you plan on riding once it’s running.

Result……..New boots fitted after powder coating wheels and fitting new bearings.

6. Brakes
Sitting for years can cause the brake calipers to seize or the brake fluid to absorb moisture, leading to poor performance.

• Check the brake pads and rotors for rust or wear, and ensure the calipers aren’t sticking.
• Flush and replace the brake fluid if needed.

Result……Calipers striped, pistons extended, scrubbed with a toothbrush, coated with red rubber grease and pushed back before adding SBS sintered pads front and back and rear brake fluid evacuated and replaced before re-bleeding.

7. Try Firing It Up
Once you’ve handled the essentials (fuel, battery, fluids), give it a shot and see if she fires up! If it struggles, it could be worth checking for any old fault codes using an OBD scanner or similar tool to help diagnose.

Result….fuel filter changed, fuel pump gasket new, IACV hoses changed for silicone hose, fresh fuel added, Tune ECU hooked up and fuel map checked and minor corrections made.

Overall Result……Bike now MOTd and roadworthy and saved from being broken up for spares!

 

Got the old girl out a few times and almost everytime I stopped there would be a plume of smoke from the right hand side fairing.

Fairings, tank and airbox off, found a missing rubber washer around one of the cam cover bolts (how???). Oil was pooling then dripping on to the no3 downpipe. Took the opportunity to clean up the flaking cover and repaint it and order a new gasket and full set of rubber coated copper washers. Also stuck some foil coated insulation back to the belly pan which was missing.

 

Got my new cam cover gasket and fitted the cover yesterday. I have to say this Plastikote satin is a perfect match for the engine paint/powder. I just wish I’d spent more time smoothing out the marks from the wire brush attachment, but it’s a 100% improvement!

Just to refit my new airbox and connect everything back up before I change the clutch pack as there is a bit of slip under hard acceleration. I bought a used clutch from National Triumph so I need to measure the difference between both clutches and use the best of both. It was only a tenner so no big deal. Should be done before the weekend is out.







Bit of a difference!

 

My T595 maladies continue just now. I put the old girl back together and took her out, then found my clutch was indeed slipping at 6k plus. Took it out, replaced it with a new EBC HD clutch and springs after the used clutch from national Triumph being outside wear limits, then upon reassembly found an errant 6mm washer had fallen from somewhere in the area of the clutch, assuming it had been stuck to my glove as there are no m6x10mm washers in the clutch assembly it went back together. Took her out again and there was a mechanical bang before it fired up when it ran but on riding there was a rattle at around 1200-1500 revs when pulling off.
Back apart I found another wash in and around the clutch pack under the pressure plate. This caused me to look a little harder this time and I found a PO had fitted 5 off 6x10 washers under the 6x20 spring retainers to maybe give them a lighter clutch which in turn was causing the clutch slip. This loose washer under the pressure plate caused the bang which was (I think) the cam chain tensioner pushing back. I replaced that with a spare and now it’s a damn sight quieter starting and running but it won’t start or idle without a whiff of throttle! I’m assuming the chain has jumped 1 tooth! Once I get home I’m gonna strip it down again and dial in the cam timing and cross my fingers that no permanent damage has been caused.

 

I eventually retimed the cams and the inlet was indeed 2 teeth out. Timing now correct, cranks and runs without throttle but the rattle is still there. I decided to break the bike. I’m not going down the avenue of stripping a 35k lump and one with a cat marker at that. There’s just no financial sense to do that.
I removed the complete front end for good money, and delivered it to Sheffield on my way to a course in Newcastle, the tank and pump is now fitted to my other T595, a 2819 mile 1 owner bike that I was recommissioning and the rest of the spares are available should anyone need anything.
Here’s the finished low mileage 1 owner bike which is now awaiting its MOT.

 

Hey Joe, thanks for the kind words mate. For me I just enjoy bringing them back from the brink. With that in mind, I suppose I should also mention another project……a £400 2001 (seriously challenged) CBR929RRY Fireblade. The TL1000S is up next then the Blade! (Still got the 94 Streetfightered CBR900 to do too, all parts have been powder, bolts re-zinc plated and VFR750 single side swingarm and 929 CBR inverted forks trial fitted).

 

I’ll be sure to put an update here.