Sounds like you are in the same situation I was. Sorry I don't know what rate my replacement rear springs are but Ikon should be able to calculate that for your weight. It is simplified as I do not carry a pillion on the TTR nor would I load it heavily with luggage - but then I still have plenty of pre-load adjustment left anyway. I recommend you discuss with ikon what they can do to reduce the compression damping on the front forks as well as reducing the spring rate. So rear springs are 260mm free length and have a 60mm coil dia. The material dia. measures at 7.2mm but the 0.2mm is probably the powder coating. Rears are, as I am sure you recognise, progressive whilst the fronts are linear.
Just another thought - if you are tearing the front end down yourself, and removing the wheel for the first time, check out the posts on front fork positioning in relation to the wheel spindle. This is a rather strange set-up for ensuring the correct clearance between the rh caliper and brake disc. (worth measuring before you undo anything.
Thanks again for the info. So you’re saying to make sure the front wheel is centred between the forks? Aren’t there spacers between the fork and bearing for this? I’ve emailed Ikon about the new springs, I’m looking at progressive rate from 0.6kg/mm to the standard 0.826kg/mm.
You need to move ! Interstate , WA roads , especially the Wheat belt between Northam and Kalgoorlie are in the main SUPERB
Interesting thread this, we all “think” we need really firm “sporty” suspension, whereas most people actually need compliant suspension, couple of examples, Ducati 1100 Monster S, Ohlins, the vast majority of owners wind them off until they replicate the non “S” Showa suspended model, my mates F430 Scuderia, he couldn’t wait to hit the “soft” button, only to find its there for bumpy racetracks and barely improves the tooth rattling ride on the road
Several thousand miles since I completed the suspension mods previously described and whilst I remain pleased with what was achieved there are rough roads that can still create front-end instability and make things busy when cornering on a poor road surface. I’m changing the fork oil for the lightest weight Putoline in the coming weeks but whist I was looking for Showa BPF strip down stuff on the Web I came across this kit to modify Thruxton R forks from a dealer in Germany. It may be of interest to some other owners. www.classicbike-raisch.de. If anyone has bought from them it would be good to hear.
I should have added that you can change to English in the home page menu by clicking on the flag symbol. Navigation to the Truxton R forks page is straightforward.
No, standard fork preload is 28 clicks clockwise from fully anti-clockwise which equates to 7 full turns. It can be backed off if necessary I found setting all the damping to comfort settings helped, along with using the spanners to move the shock preload to position 2. basically the bike is under sprung and overdamped, causing too much sag at the rear and a harsh ride. Bought 2 genuine ohlins shock spanners for the princely sum of 2 quid each from Harris performance. for a total outlay of £4 the bike is transformed
Sounds like you have it sorted to suit you. I accept I didn’t word my description of the Handbook setting instructions for the front forks. What it states in my book (early Issue 1 version) is 7 turns clockwise is the setting for “Standard”, “Comfort” and “Sport”. Maybe later books describe something more enlightening?
I had a Monster 1100s and ended up setting the suspension back to standard, or very close, which was fine for me. I am only 11 stone though and suspect most bikes are ok for me as standard.
Since I am sort of new to riding, I have a question and please forgive my naivete, but wouldn't adjusting the damping and rebound help in a lot of these cases? I'm 5'9" (1.75 meters) and weigh 315 lbs (22.5 stone or 143 kilos) and still feeling my ride out. I figure some suspension adjustment wouldn't hurt and plan on requesting it when I take her in for the first service.
Sorry for a long delay in posting a reply. Yes the adjustment is there to allow you to fine tune the suspension to suit you. For some though the range of adjustment is insufficient to get the perfect compromise for handling and comfort on public roads. Did you get your dealer to adjust and was it a success? One other problem us ordinary folk tend to get into is due very large range of adjustment combinations - compression/rebound/preload and the relationship between front and rear. Not difficult to get into a confusing mess. Adjust one item at a time, a small amount, and test on the same stretch of road. An old fashioned pencil & note book is handy.
