T595 Not Starting

Starting System Symptoms:

Weak battery symptoms:
-- Slow cranking.
-- Stops cranking suddenly on compression stroke with button pressed.
-- Starts when starter button is released at end of cranking.
Repair:
-- Charge/Test/Replace battery.
Failure Modes:
-- Loss of capacity. Appears to charge, voltage good but no reserve for starting.
-- Won't hold a charge.
-- Low voltage/cell failure.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Check fluid levels regularly
-- Maintain full charge: Regular riding, trickle charger.

Ignition Coil failure symptoms:
-- Hard starting/misfiring during cranking.
-- Rough idle that can't be tuned out with carb adjustments and carb cleaning.
-- Idle misfire clears with new sparkplugs, returns in a few hundred miles
Repair:
-- Replace: Preferably with Nology for higher reliability than stock Gill coils.
Failure Mode:
-- Shorted turns in secondary resulting in weak spark.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None
Testing:

Pickup Coil failure symptoms:
-- No spark at all
-- Spark quits with engine hot, returns when engine cool.
-- Note: Pickup coil failure is total. There is no random misfire spark loss.
Repair:
-- Replace pickup coil
Failure mode:
-- Thermal intermittant with long (15-30 minute) period.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None. Get a spare.
Testing:
-- Ohms checks hot and cold.

Worn starter symptoms:
-- Sometimes won't crank until the bike is rocked in gear.
-- Excessively noisy cranking with a grinding sound.
-- Click from under seat but no cranking.
Failure Mode:
-- Brush wear progressing to commutator damage.
-- Bearing failure related to brush wear.
Repair:
-- Rebuild or replace.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Maintan battery in peak condition.
-- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in.
-- Crank 5-10 seconds at a time max., switch off for twice as long before cranking again.

Worn sprag clutch symptoms:
-- Very loud rattling when cranking
-- Starter spins but engine doesn't turn
Falure Mode:
-- Breakage
Repair:
-- Replace sprag clutch
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Maintain battery in peak condition.
-- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in.

Worn starter solenoid:
-- Click from under seat but no cranking.
-- Won't crank after rocking bike.
-- Starter continues to run after bike starts and won't stop until the battery is disconnected.
Failure mode:
-- Internal contact damage resulting in non-conduction.
-- Internal contact damage resulting in contacts welding shut.
-- Internal damage/wear prevents solenoid core movement.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None.
Repair:
-- Replace starter solenoid.
Testing:
-- For no cranking, short across solenoid high-power terminals. Normal operation denotes failed solenoidcontacts.

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Don't just assume because the parts are new one cant be faulty ! check through the system to verify everything else is working .......

Is the battery fully charged ?
Did you check the voltage when the start button is pressed ?
Have you tried shorting the big contacts on the starter solenoid ?
A starter is expensive so I would check everything else first !!

 

can you hot wire the starter to see if it runs?

 

James, you've too much time on your hands. I can see now why buses are never on time!!

 

Just a cut and paste Ive got that one bookmarked its too handy to loose. My bus is always on time ( last run anyway)

 

I don't have a wiring diagram but I would guess both of those switches should be closed with the sidestand up and the clutch lever pulled in, but, your best bet is to disconnect them and check the switches with a multimeter.

note :- the sidestand switch may be 3 wire so you will need to check which of the 3 wires are connected

You could also have a fault in the neutral light circuit too so check the operation of that too.

If the wires go direct into the ecu it depends on how the ecu was programmed so you may have to try the clutch switch in the open position, but sort out the sidestand switch first

 

No sorry ............... don't assume anything ....... otherwise we will end up chasing our tails and missing something obvious

Disconnect the two plugs and check the wiring to the switches , not ino the bikes wiring loom
if you check the clutch switch first its 2 wires and without touching the lever check for continuity, then check for continuity with the clutch lever pulled in to the bars ....... tell us what you get

then with the sidestand up ( in the riding position ) check the wires in the plug with your meter there should be continuity between 2 of the wires, then pull the sidestand down and check again tell us what you get.

it could be a faulty switch or even a broken wire so work logically it will be easier for us and you to follow

 

because the sidestand can cut either the ignition spark or stop the starter motor turning when in the down position and I'm not sure which.

You could also be in the situation that you can start the bike with the sidestand down and the clutch pulled in but not in gear.

Putting the bike in gear with the sidestand down will kill the engine on most bikes even with the clutch pulled in ...... as a safety to stop you riding off with the stand down

 

3 wires on the side stand would suggest a connection to gear lever, so it will cut out if in gear with stand down.
Are you sure 12 .8 is enough to turn over bike, its an exact figure or it wont move try adding another battery in line.
The delay you spoke about could be a sign of the current bridging a small gap ( loose connection) which has now grown to big to jump.


http://www.dansmc.com/cdiignition.htm

 

Try pulling switch block apart and clean the contact surfaces, they can develop an almost invisible film which stops current flow ! It can show up as intermittent starting or failure to start full stop, there is nothing wrong with anything else in the circuitry !!

 

Guess. The side stand should let you start with the stand down ( not in gear) so if you have no continuity is that the problem?