Sprint Gt Died On Ride Now Won't Start

Hi dan,
Amperage on the battery is what really counts.
Lot's of posts here have ended up being the battery as yes, the voltage was there but the amps wouldn’t power it or start it.
If you get clicks, relay and starter button (and fuse) seem to be fine but it's not ready to rock.
Try and jump and/or bump.
If it starts on jump, battery.
If it starts on bump, battery.
If you have a meter (and it starts of course!) put it on the battery and check the voltage when its running.
Should be 13-14vdc. If not, regulator is not working so your battery is powering everything and then goes flat as it's not being charged.

 

Check the battery voltage while trying to start it and getting the "click". A good battery shouldn't drop below 11-11.5v. I've never heard of a bad battery suddenly killing the engine while a actually riding.

 

Could be a voltage reg/stator issue If it dies the stator can't supply power, and the battery emptied until it drops below the security voltage.

If you have all the usual lights on the dashboard for the starting process, it likely removes the ECU from the guilty part list.

 

Modern ECUs are notorious for throwing a wobbler if the battery voltage is low but for it to die when riding would as said take a charging system failure or another problem entirely,
The starter relay click is usually indicative of low battery voltage or the relay itself or starter motor has a problem especially if you have tried jump start with the same result however I still think there is an underlying problem can you get an error code from it.

 

Just a thought.. you say that you have replaced a failing battery, starting a bike on a poor battery put's a lot of strain on a starter and potential damage, it is possible that a short has occurred within the starter, draining the new battery, and killing the starter motor.

 

Have you checked the battery voltage using something on the bike frame as a negative? Checking across the terminals could indicate a healthy battery but a poor earth would mean it still wouldn't start. That said, when my bike did this, dim display and no starter motor, it was the battery. And yet the previous day I'd ridden it 250 miles with a couple of stops and it behaved completely normally. And I'd got half the bike on the front lawn before I considered trying the battery out of my other bike.....feckin tosspot

And check your kill switch and side stand switch, and maybe your headlamp bulb. Mine won't start if the headlight is out.

 

I had a similar problem with my Sprint ST 1050. The fault was Regulator/Rectifier. It also screwed the battery.

Unless you are good technically, I suggest using a reliable repairer.

Good luck.

 

I bought a mint 2008 Sprint last fall and I have had it fail to start a few times. Even after a new battery install. I'm in the midst of discussions with the Facebook group and after that and tones of research it seems to be the ECU MUST have a specified voltage/amperage to start.

The fixes all seem to work towards getting the rectifier/regulator (which are notorious on many Triumph models) to give a battery a full charge, while running the bike. I've been told that on mine, even with a new battery, it sometimes drops below this "standard" because the rectifier just isn't doing the job keeping that battery at the top.

So the advise I have received is to install a new rectifier and it must be a genuine Mosfet type part # FH020AA or SH847AA. (evidently there are a lot of cheap "fakes" available). Other fixes mentioned were making sure the rectifier has clean surface to ground, and even adding a ground wire from that mount to engine mount. And lastly, Triumph uses sub standard battery/cables (positive/negative and to starter) and I'm told to upgrade to a better quality copper cable set. This all leads to having the maximum voltage/amperage going from the rectifier to the bike and battery.

Everyone who's done all this has had problem go away. So I have ordered the parts needed and am upgrading all of it because this intermittent stuff is maddening.

Hope some of this info helps.

 

I had the same issue back in November, the click was the starter relay energizing but the starter solenoid was doing nothing.
Jump started it by going straight to the starter motor terminal and rode home .
Turned out to be just dirty/ loose solenoid terminals.

 

I had the same issue back in November, the click was the starter relay energizing but the starter solenoid was doing nothing.
Jump started it by going straight to the starter motor terminal and rode home .
Turned out to be just dirty/ loose solenoid terminals.

 

Well that's a bit of a surprise and unexpected from a modern bike, did you not get an oil warning lights etc? Lucky it didn't just lock up the rear wheel and cause you to drop it...if it had been an old bike that would have been the first thing I would have thought of anyway hope you find yourself a replacement mate.

 

Might be an idea to check if the oil filter has disintegrated, and blocked the oil flow to the engine.

 

Pretty shit luck mate, I have to say. ISTR reading somewhere about some model of Triumph triple having random but terminal issues with the centre cylinder big ends. That's probably before your model though I would have thought. Commiserations anyway mate.

 

No noise at all is the confusing one!
Bearing failure or valves etc would lead to a fair bit of noise prior but to have zero, very bizarre.
Unless, you have shit hot earplugs!!!???

 

Daniel Green
What a real bummer. That must have dented your confidence in Triumph. And those Sprints are usually so good. I really feel for you mate.
Joe.

 

Really sorry to hear that, very unexpected outcome.
Good luck with your hunt for a new stead, maybe you shouldn't be to hasty, and a cheap engine may turn up.