Speedmaster Shock Upgrade

After seat and pipes upgrade, I really wanted to save for a better ride. The standard mono has good adjustments but still bottoms out on B Roads.
At 110kg I looked at the options and decided on Matris.

 

With fully adjustable damper and preload setting to allow 60kg pillion and luggage, I feel I have purchased what will make my bike complete.
Reading instructions before embarking on the mono and then will tackle the front shocks.
Was good following @Duckadiledundee progress and posted video to see what I need to remove the front and clear the oil.
Oil level syringe and ruler are on there way, but do not think I can wait.

 

Generally the progressive (soft) part is at the load end which is the top for regular forks. This set has evenly tempered springs, so drawing is incorrect (although I liked Dilli’s thinking).

 

Stage 1, rear mono removal went well until I had to clear the swing arm as very tight.



Managed to drop the rear wheel to get just enough room to lever the old shock out. Was good using the car jack to support the wheel, making it easy to raise again when I needed to bolt up the new Matris mono. (Rear shock series M40D Black&Black, adjustable in Rebound and Preload)

 

I will test ride Tomorrow to see how the adjustment is for me.
Was good learning to lift the bike and chock the centre while supporting the rear wheel to allow simple removal of the shock bolts.
Strapping bike for safety was awkward with only roller door frames to support, but worked well.

 

I managed to only get 2 short rides to work, but the damping over a undulating B Road was great. Noticeable on potholes and firmer smoother ride.
My oil measure kit arrived, so front adjustable fork dampers next.

 

After a couple of how-to videos on changing springs and fork seals, I was ready (or so I thought).
I recall @Yorkshireman (I think) saying to make sure you have all the tools required before you start, so when I went to remove the front wheel for the first time, I realised I did not have a 1/2’ hex.
After driving to a auto shop, they only had 10mm. Found a second hand tool shop open and scored some

 

Now with drive for wheel removal, I could continue to remove the left fork. It really does pay to do one at a time to ensure all the bits are in order and locating the completed fork back is so much safer using the axel to line it up.

 

Now with drive for wheel removal, I could continue to remove the left fork. It really does pay to do one at a time to ensure all the bits are in order and locating the completed fork back is so much safer using the axel to line it up.





I also found using the car scissor jack to raise and lower the bike while on the paddock stand was really simple. Old step box with some small chocks on the frame was great support while working on the bike.

 

Assembly was slow due to caution, but I learned a lot about fork shocks on the way. I will post a full upgrade pictorial in the gallery.



finished into the night, so cleaned up and will test tomorrow and report.
The right fork had a damper rod, so was different to remove and reassemble, looking forward to seeing what preload and damping will be like on base settings before any adjustments.

 

Initially the front was too hard and took some adjustments of the compression preload to soften it up.
Issue, too much oil. I had taken the level measures with the springs out, but extended and not fully compressed. 70ml adjustment to the correct level (160mm) and we had success.
It will take some more fine tuning (only 3 rides of 30km), but well worth it so far.

 

Thanks for the interest @dilligaf, with this time of year it took me longer to test and adjust before deciding to recheck levels over the weekend. Will be next week until I can fully test and start minor adjustments for my riding style.

 

Finally got a chance to trial pillion setup. I was shocked at how little preload I needed for such a smooth ride.
3 turns of the mono adjusters and 2 turns of the fork spring preload (took 5 clicks out of compression setting).
Night and day compared to standard

 

Hi @brown mouse, straight swap with a bit of levering to get it in.
Position was based on load and rebound adjustments being assessable from the base rather than the top.
See Bobber pic showing rebound adjustment at the rear.