Speedmaster 2012 highflow piopes

There is a kit available if you want to remove this extra emission control stuff (includes blanking off plugs for the cylinder head) - I could be wrong but I seem to recall an article in Nacelle a while back (?) and there was something on Youtube about this being done on a cafe racer. Only problem being it might leave your engine management unit confused with it removed and I think some of the loom needs work; not sure if there's a workaround. Mine used to pop quite a bit, (having had shorties fitted with stage one re-map) but since I fitted a Norman Hyde high flow bellmouth air intake and K&N lifetime filter it doesn't happen much now - don't know if that's coincidental. The bike is more responsive with the air filter/high flow bellmouth, I think it can breath more easily when you open up - couldn't believe that massive rubber filter insert I removed from the box.

 

To remove the Air Injection system is quite straightforward see here : http://www.thetriumphforum.co.uk/threads/oxygen-lambda-o2-sensor-kit.3937/#post-28280 post number 11.

 

There are kits, you plug the air pump tubes next to the plugs and most suggest leaving the pump instead of adding a resistor then the bike thinks nothing has changed except you remove a lot of garbage under the tank. I then added a set of long turn out slip ons, great sound and no pop. Motor was remaped new with speed master off-road pipes.

 

If you download a free program called "TuneECU" and buy a good quality OBD cable such as this one : http://www.triumphtwinpower.com/ttp-obd-2-usb-cable.php

then you can use it to tell the ECU that the AI system has been removed. Using this approach you don't need any resistors.

The same applies for the O² sensors.

 

Actually I did both yet still have not hooked up to the bike. Slite fear, good with computers just can't get used to (computer & bike) I still think wrench & bike.

 

I have short TORS on my Speedmaster. I have not noticed a smell of petrol. I do get the popping which I have to say I love. I also get cutting out occasionally but Triumph say they will increase the tick over. I don't want that and can live with being aware of slightly increasing the revs when pulling away.
To be a bit more helpful; there is a great video on you tube (Delboy's Garage) which goes through this including the AI system issue that Johnny-B mentions.

 

I have done it so anyone can!! Even loaded the map myself!?!

 

The flexible trumpet needs to go as does the filter retaining plate to be replaced by one of these : http://www.triumphtwinpower.com/ttp-breathe-airbox-intake-cover.php

 

www.normanhyde.co.uk - product number HBK 153/353 (high flow intake bellmouth) and K&N Air Filter HBK 152/352 - you may get the K&N cheaper elsewhere.

 

Hi BG,if you are going down this road, can I suggest a DNA filter rather than the K&N one. Plus the Triumph Twin Power "Breathe" bellmouth?

Why do I say that? Well Triumph Twin Power are specialists for the parallel twin range of Triumphs and they take a more scientific/engineering approach to increasing the performance of these machines, rather than just guessing. So they actually measured the throughput of air through a range of airfilters and found the DNA to be the best.

I've purchased several TTP products and found they worked even better than promised.

How often do you find that nowadays ?

PS If you do all your mods - AI removal; O² removal; airbox de-baffle; bellmouth and DNA filter; new exhaust pipes - all at the same time then you'll only need 1 re-map

 

I agree with thebiglad's post above regarding Triumph Twin Power. I've been some doing some online research and have come to the same conclusion. I will be buying their DNA filter and bellmouth soon

 

The TOR map only takes into account slight increase in exhaust gases airflow. A TTP map will take into account any and all mods on the inlet as well as the exhaust side of the engine.