i thought i would try putting my tail pack on the bike,it says to put the strap under the bike so i did that and the seat wouldn't shut, so as a few of the owners of the speed triple on here have stuck a couple of washers under the latch to raise it slightly so the seat clicks in easier i thought that would help,first bolt was pretty tight but it came out, the 2nd bolt was even tighter and after a few turns it snapped,i tried turning it with pliers but it wouldn't budge, will i have to drill it out or is there another way?.
Could you try something like mole grips……..possibly filing a flat on each side of the bolt to get a better grip??
i did try mole grips but i didn't file the sides flat..good idea I'll try that before i get the drill out
Hi Dougie have you tried vice grip pliers and a soaking of penetrating oil from behind the bracket ??
no Peter in hindsight i should have put some penetrating oil on when i realized how tight it was i;ll give it a good spray then try again ,the seat still clicks in with the one bolt in so it will be OK until i get hold of another bolt..it was snowing up here today so not going anywhere!
tried again it's totally seized,tried drilling it but it's an awkward little fecker,drill keeps slipping off,tried putting a little hole in the bolt with a nail punch to get the drill started, but it's not making much impression on it..time for a cup of tea that usually helps!
I would soak it in plusgas and leave it for a while to soak thru the threads, then dry the top off so the grips dont slip and as others say, file flats on and try the mole grips again, you could also file so you can use an open ended spanner on it. it may help if it is a nice warm day as the threads will possibly open up a little,it is kinda cold right now.
Oh Bugger. A dumb f**ker I know did something similar not long back. He snapped a bolt in an engine cover and ended up having professionally removed at our local bike fettlers. 1. Looking at the pic, you might be able to get a plumbers wrench on it, something like a 8 or 12 inch Stilson wrench, I've found these will get most things shifted. Soak the bolt in penetrating oil and leave it for a while before you start 2. What's the offending bolt made off?. If it's stainless steel you are in for a real good time. You'll need a variable speed drill, preferably some cobalt drills, plenty of cutting paste and a nice drill low speed. Normal high speed steel drills won't hold their edge if you try to drill at a fast speed and will over heat quickly. This will harden the bolt if it's stainless and bugger the drill bit so, slow speed, gentle pressure plenty of coolant and let the drill do the work Start with a small pilot hole and work up in nice easy steps until you can get an Easy-Out in the hole. Before you try the Easy-Out soak the bolt penetrating oil for hours, then turn the Easy-Out nice and gently, for feck sake don't snap it in. Once you get it moving it should come out. 3. Once you get it out it might be worth running the appropriate size tap through to re-form any damaged threads and to clean out any rough bits or metal shards (swarf). If you haven't got a tap, you can use some course lapping paste or cutting paste on the bolt can help to restore the threads. Cover the new bolt in the paste and gently work the bolt in and out to clean up the threads in the hole, not a perfect way to restore a damaged thread but it's better than nowt. When you put the bolts back in smear the bolt with some Copper Slip or graphite based anti scuffing paste like Rocol, this should prevent it happening again. The trick is nice and gentle, be patient and don't try to force it Good Luck.
Could you perhaps weld a suitable nut onto what's left? The heat from the welding process may be enough to help free up the little bugger. Then (hopefully) undo it with a decent socket/spanner. This is always assuming that you have sufficient access to do it without setting the bike on fire. This is not to be recommended, no matter how cold your working environment is! Do not be tempted!!
Hi Dougie,may I suggest something?Buy yourself a set of Left Hand thread drill bits. Do the centre punch thing then start to drill the stud/broken bolt out. You'll find that a combo LH drill bit, the heat generated in the drilling process and a soupçon of luck and the stud will unwind itself with no damage to the threads. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...l+.TRS0&_nkw=left+hand+drill+bit+set&_sacat=0
cheers Dave, i've not heard of left hand thread drill bits ..i take it i will put the drill in reverse if i use it? if i've no luck getting the bolt out tomorow i'll order one, maybe i'll order a centre drill bit also,it might be handy to get a decent hole made first
If you buy a LH bit kit,then just start with a small one and build up. The likelihood is that once centre-punched if you start with a small sized bit, that on it's own will drive the stud out.
Hi Gary, if your comment related to what I was saying, the LH drill bit is not an easy-out, it's just a drill bit but designed to drill turning anti-clockwise rather than turning clockwise like normal bits.
If it`s on a flat surface, you could try putting a circle of blu-tack or putty I guess around the broken bolt & filling it with plus-gas & leaving it for as long as possible, apart from evaporating, the plus-gas has to go somewhere & hopefully that`ll be down the thread.....
Short of welding a bolt on if one has not the tackle, put a dolly or metal block/heavy shaft on the nut/female thread underneath keeping the lower of the stud free and then giving a blow to the remaining thread to 'shock it', pair of grips on the remaining end and it should just unscrew. This is a method I use to remove car locking wheel studs if there is no wheel nut key although I use a sledge hammer for cars
No just a warning about them. I know left hand drills are different they are also imv far better than those things.
