Thruxton Sheered rear shock bolt

Discussion in 'Thruxton, Scrambler & Trident' started by Kev06, Jan 8, 2017.

  1. Kev06

    Kev06 Active Member

    Jun 18, 2016
    45
    28
    Scotland
    after fitting my new TEC shocks and springs last week, i thought i would go back and torque them correctly

    Long story short , I rescued the bolt that snapped in the bike and now need a new one - i can only find dressed bolts at 25.99 for 4 . Where could i buy standard bolts from?
    Thanks
    Kev

    IMG_2603.JPG
     
  2. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,805
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    West Yorkshire
    #2 MickEng, Jan 8, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2017
    Oh dear Kev.
    The shocker bolts should not be overtightened because all you are doing is crushing the rubber bush.
    They should be thread locked with Loctite or similar threadlock adhesive and correctly torqued.
    A small blob of paint then applied to visually keep on eye on them for vibration loosening which virtually never happens.
    Now the damage is done, best to contact a reputable fixings/fasteners supplier and give them the sizes and any other information on the bolt head.
    You need high tensile bolts grade 12.9 from memory.
     
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  3. Kev06

    Kev06 Active Member

    Jun 18, 2016
    45
    28
    Scotland

    Thanks gents.

    The over tensioning was a complete human error after i looked at the gauge, first time ive done that honest
     
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  4. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,805
    450
    West Yorkshire
    #4 MickEng, Jan 9, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2017
    Hi Kev,
    You are certainly not the first and definitely will not be the last to make this mistake, so do not be too hard on yourself.
    There are times when I have totally ignored a torque wrench setting because it just does not feel right from experience.
    Onwards and upwards, source some bolts, fit them and put it down to experience.
    Ps. Make sure they are high tensile 12.9 grade bolts, use threadlock adhesive and correct torque setting.
     
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  5. crispey

    crispey crispey creme de la creme

    Nov 6, 2014
    7,229
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    Spot on ade!! Look here Less than £2 and if you order from your local triumph shop you'll save on postage and get a cup of tea! So all in all a winner?
     
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  6. thebiglad

    thebiglad Old fart, still riding !

    Sep 25, 2013
    5,066
    1,000
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    Bearing in mind that the 'strain' is taken on the spigot which supports the shock and the bolt is only there to retain the shock on the spigot - I would have thought stainless bolts would be fine with correct torquing and some Loctite.
     
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  7. Kev06

    Kev06 Active Member

    Jun 18, 2016
    45
    28
    Scotland
    Overwhelmed with the responses - cheers!

    Personally I was quite shocked that it sheered so easily as I didn't have that much tension on the bolt I thought.......onwards and upwards anyway and good idea replacing all tbh.


    It's a lesson to all home mechanics however that tightening a bolt to max thinking that's home and safe , couldn't be further from the truth.
     
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  8. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,805
    450
    West Yorkshire
    #8 MickEng, Jan 9, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2017
    The speed of reply is brilliant, when you consider it is being done for no gain whatsoever other than helping a fellow biker, marvellous!
    Stainless button screws will be fine providing the pitch is 1.25mm, you will need a hexagon bit to fit your torque wrench.
    Big Lad is completely right, as the screw is not directly taking the load it is under no threat of fracture and is merely stopping the shocker from working itself off the spigot, hence low torque requirement and the threadlock.
    Button heads will look nice, make sure you refit the correct washers which clamp on the rubber inserts.
    Just as a reminder, stainless is a more 'brittle' material than the high tensile materials so bear this in mind if it is a tougher more resilient bolt you need that will not crack or fracture under load or tightening.
     
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  9. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,805
    450
    West Yorkshire
    #9 MickEng, Jan 9, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2017
    I like your pun 'shocked'
    You probably know this, standard spanner and hexagon key lengths are designed so that under 'normal' hand pressure they will only let you apply the leverage intended for that size of fixing, start using a pipe and you stand a good chance of damaging the fixing, tighten it like a fairy and it wont be tight enough. Experience is the key and a good way to practice is tightening something in a vice with a normal spanner and then check what torque it is, quite surprising results sometimes particularly over a range of sizes, materials and thread types.
     
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  10. t552

    t552 Senior Member

    Nov 17, 2014
    416
    113
    Bristol UK
    Re torque wrench I recommend Norbar. Great quality and easy to read. (I calibrate torque wrenches for aircraft industry).
     
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  11. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,805
    450
    West Yorkshire
    I had read somewhere that Halfords professional range is made by the same company who make Norbar, can you confirm that ?
     
  12. t552

    t552 Senior Member

    Nov 17, 2014
    416
    113
    Bristol UK
    Not to my knowledge. I think that is just internet talk or wishful thinking
     
  13. Kev06

    Kev06 Active Member

    Jun 18, 2016
    45
    28
    Scotland
    Cannot fcking believe it! New S/S bolts arrived and fitted new one - it sheered again ....

    So drilled it, tried the extractor and its not moving. Why did even bother starting
     
  14. t552

    t552 Senior Member

    Nov 17, 2014
    416
    113
    Bristol UK
    Yup. Torque wrench purchase time.
     
  15. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,805
    450
    West Yorkshire
    Kev, what are you tightening them with, a frigging scaffolding pole ?
    If you have not got a torque wrench they only need tightening until it just starts to crush the rubber bushes. With the threadlock adhesive they will be okay, just mark with a blob of paint for a visual check that they remain in place.
    If you feel you have not overtightened them it may be that the bolts are shite imports made from monkey metal.
     
  16. Kev06

    Kev06 Active Member

    Jun 18, 2016
    45
    28
    Scotland
    It sheared while trying to torque it. The internal tread was slightly damaged from the last bolt so i did force it in which I should never have done. Any suggestions guys, just not budging and im worried

    IMG_2615.JPG

    IMG_2614.JPG
     
  17. Kev06

    Kev06 Active Member

    Jun 18, 2016
    45
    28
    Scotland
    Im using a torque wrench!!!
     
  18. Kev06

    Kev06 Active Member

    Jun 18, 2016
    45
    28
    Scotland
    No its not threaded, so your assumption is the bolt will protrude after removing shock.... good idea will try that mate!
     
  19. Kev06

    Kev06 Active Member

    Jun 18, 2016
    45
    28
    Scotland
    Negative with removing the shock - bolr still within bike locating pin :see pic.

    Onlything i can think left is drill out the old bolt and re-tap a m8 x 1.25 pitch

    IMG_2616.JPG
     
  20. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,805
    450
    West Yorkshire
    #20 MickEng, Jan 14, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2017
    Kev, take your time now to correct it or you may cause more damage out of frustration and anger.
    Stop for tonight, have a few pints and tackle it in the morning.
    Small drill hole in centre and left hand stud extractor.

    Once you get it out you need to run a tap down the thread to clean the thread up.
    Fingers crossed it is not too damaged from forcing the new bolt in.
    If any of the other threads feel tight, run the tap down all of them.
    Use a little bit of cutting fluid or thin oil when re-tapping.
    Good luck
     
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