Featured Reserecting A 69 Daytona 500

Hi mate and welcome
I'm sure someone will be along to offer advice soon

 

Hi and welcome to the forum

 

Andy,nice old Trumpet hope it dont give you any grief.Keep us up to date with your progress.

 

Hi Andy,
I had a Daytona, and from memory I think that was a 1969.
Metallic green tank with chrome map rack on it.
Never got on with it to be honest at the time, traded in my Honda 250 K2 after passing my test and bitterly regretted it.
Wish I had it now though.
Get yourself a Haynes manual and just go through the usual basics if it has been stood.
1) Full fuel system clean out.
2) strip and clean carbs.
3) Oil & filter change
4) Thorough overall of brakes
5) New plugs, plug leads, points & condenser, maybe coil.
5) Full grease up.
6) Thorough check of tyres. Fit new if any doubts.

Have fun, it will be a great little project.

 

I agree with MickEng on all the above.
But I would be inclined to ditch both tyres and tubes as they will no doubt be long past there 'sell by' date. The wheel rims look like they need to be rechromed/replaced so ditch the rubber while you do it.
I seem to remember that I ran my '69 Bonneville on a good quality 20/50 mineral oil - probably Duckhams (the green stuff) or Castrol GTX.
Fortunately for you it would seem that it is all there, which has to be a bonus!
Don't worry about the rear brake pedal being on the wrong side - the gear lever is also on the wrong side (Dozer's Dad is SUCH a worrier). This is not a problem. Simply put a cushion on the tank and sit on it facing backwards, they will then be the right way round. Everything else will be in the wrong place, but the brake and gear levers will now be okay (brought to you free of charge by Stevethegoolie's School of Knowledge and Enlightenment).

Now .... where's Nursey with my meds??

 

Remove pipe from oil tank and drain oil from tank, refill with fresh 20/50 classic castrol oil and off you go. You could also drain the gearbox oil and change that as well

 

Isn't there an oil drain plug under the crankcase somewhere to drain the engine itself? Something in the deepest, darkest recesses of my untidy mind seems to suggest that there may be - or are 'the voices' in my head trying to mislead me?

 

Triumphs don't normally wet sump so there is only a small amount of oil in the bottom of the cases, if you drain the whole system just refiling the tank with oil and turning the engine over with the plugs out will soon have oil spurting out of the return pipe in the top of the tank checking the oil return pipe is an easy thing to do and i often just look inside my filler cap to see if the oil return is working ok

 

Yes as there will still be a small amount of oil in the pipe above the pump

 

Cannot say yea or nay to that although I would have thought it unlikely.
Agree with Darkman though - pump it through until it returns to the tank. The above problem(s) may be due to starting the bike without checking the oil return.
If you end up needing a new pump, for whatever reason, have a look at www.morgo.co.uk for a replacement as they seem to be an improvement on the original. No personal experience but it appears that they may be the way to go.
I will stand correction on all of the above!

 

Yes, welcome, Steve McQueen run about!

 

I had one of these between 73 and 81 .absolutely loved it mine was a 68 aqua marine and silver got a street twin now

 

Before you buy refurb kits for the carbs check for wear in the body/slides to see if they are worth refurbing. I made that mistake and ended up buying a pair of Wassell Evolutions for half the price. Once set up the bike runs fine.

 

That's good advice about the carb bodies the concentrics did wear

 

Welcome to the forum and good luck with the renovation