Newbie alert!

Discussion in 'Newbies Hangout' started by Tinbum, Oct 11, 2016.

  1. Tinbum

    Tinbum New Member

    Oct 11, 2016
    1
    3
    Farnborough
    Hi folks, my name is Nick (hence Tinbum). Very long term T150 project owner and universal 'fix-it-if-I-can' person.
    I have a slight poser for you: A pal of mine has just handed me a Speed 4 bottom-yoke to extract three (!) snapped stainless bolts from the leg-clamps. I have done one, it took 3 hours, a new centre-drill and 3 other drills to successfully recover the one thread undamaged. Is it worth carrying on, or is it easier to just buy a new bottom yoke from flea-buy? He said he'd pay me to do the job, but I feel embarrassed to ask for a day's pay!
    Are the TT600 yokes a straight swap? There is a one on Eebay for £30 ish.
    Any bright ideas would be appreciated!
     
  2. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

    Oct 26, 2015
    7,633
    1,000
    Southcoast of the UK Earth
    Hi n welcome, probably cheaper to find another yoke. Any pix of the T150 project so far :)
     
  3. Tinbum

    Tinbum New Member

    Oct 11, 2016
    1
    3
    Farnborough
    Hi darkman, I spoke to the owner, and he has decided to go for the eeeebay option at £56 delivered. Now, I find out that he has sheared one of the front-wheel spindle clamp-bolts. I have been asked to 'see what you can do'. (This is why I never seem to finish any of my own work, too busy doing stuff on other people's bikes. :(:mad:)
     
    • Like Like x 1
  4. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,805
    450
    West Yorkshire
    Hi Nick, welcome aboard.
    He needs to be questioning what is going wrong.
    Correct torque settings and copper grease would be a start.
    Probably dropped lucky this time finding a "cheapish" yoke but failing that and having no success with drills and stud extractors, for future reference spark erosion is one solution. If you know a local little firm with EDM (electrical discharge machining) make mates with them.
    Another solution is to accurately set up and clamp the yoke on a milling machine or pillar drill and very carefully re-drill with the correct tapping size drill. I say accurate and careful because if the drill "runs off" the aluminium will cut a lot easier than the steel stud.
     
  5. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

    Oct 26, 2015
    7,633
    1,000
    Southcoast of the UK Earth
    Lol, i know that feeling as i gave up work 6 years ago to look after my Dad and still don't have enough time in a day :)
     
  6. Tinbum

    Tinbum New Member

    Oct 11, 2016
    1
    3
    Farnborough
    Hi MickEng, Thanks for your reply.
    He bought the bike as a doer-upper, and was doing the front-end first. (fork-seals, tyre, etc.) I think the factory bolted the thing together dry, which is bad news when ally gets together with stainless, then sits outside for years uncovered. A spot of coppaslip or alislip might have helped. I would have lent one of my impact drivers, but I can't remember who I lent either of them to. :( When one bolt shears, why do people go on and shear another three before asking for help?
    I can drill/mill accurately- I recovered one hole with zero damage to the ally, it just takes ages. I'll have a look for a local spark-man. I never built my own eroder, never got around to it.
    (Is there a smiley for <sigh> ?
     
  7. Modalconfusion

    Modalconfusion Active Member

    Jul 28, 2016
    211
    43
    Stafford
    Hi Nick welcome hope you can let us have some pictures of your busy life ;);)
     
  8. Sceptic Al

    Sceptic Al Well-Known Member

    Hi Nick, welcome in. I know just what you mean about doing jobs for others and not getting your own work done. I had 40+ years of that crepe then I retired so I get to do just what Mrs Al tells me to do:D
     
    • Like Like x 1
  9. Wessa

    Wessa Cruising

    Apr 27, 2016
    11,640
    1,000
    North West England
    Hi and welcome....
     

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