Gearing

Try this Tony
https://www.gearingcommander.com/

 

Just to chip in, racing this year has shown me how much different the bike is by just changing 1 tooth on the back (1 on front is worth 3 on back), my Bandit 600 normally runs 14/48 for tracks without massive straights, 14/47 for most others, Snetterton was the only one where I dropped to 14/46, gearing is always a bit of a compromise, the bike comes out of corners much better with 14/48 but revs out much quicker, as they say, 'you pays your money'.

I know it is cheaper & easier to change the front than the rear, but with a reduction of 1 tooth on the front being equivalent to 3 more on rear, it is quite a big step, just food for thought.

 

Never tried it mate, but strangely I can kind of see how that would work, sometimes I have been able to pull top down a particular straight, then later in the day the wind picks up & it simply slows down if you select top.

 

I normally go with the one down on the front for most sports bikes on the road but my current Speed Twin is the first bike i'm going to go one up as soon as the sprocket gets here will post my thought as soon as it's done.

 

I agree with the points already made but let's not forget one quite major point;
Final drive gearing is a ratio but as it is set against a multiple ratio gearbox there is more to consider. Not only do the ratios go up or down, depending on whether you increase or decrease the tooth count, but the gaps themselves grow or shrink.
A drastic gearing down will give you a CLOSER ratio box.
Obviously the inverse is also true.

When doing enduros I used to go for the lowest gearing possible whilst still aiming to be quick enough on the fire roads.