Thruxton Front Brake Pad Retaining Pin

It may be that the Allen Key bit is slightly undersized Or torque wrench incorrect. Do you have access to easy out (left hand threaded) tool, if so easy peasy. If not pls provide photo of the head of the offending item before attempting a cunning plan

 

The other option when you have a replacement is to tap in a torx bit and take it out carefully

 

if the tapped in torx dont work you can drill it out as its only the threaded bit holding it in, carefully to not damage the thread inside caliper. youll want a drill bit slightly bigger than the allen key drill it down to the main shank then the head should come up the drill and the shank will be free of the caliper. check your allen key's corners arent rounded, in fact chuck that one and get a new one, and also get your torque wrench checked.

 

If you get that wrong, a calliper is expensive, so I would exhaust all other options first. But defo order a new or couple of pins in case you wish to play again in the future

 

An impact driver with a good quality hex bit should do it.
I ignored the torque settings when I did mine as I just knew 'feeling' through the torque wrench it was going to over-tighten when set at 18Nm.
I reckon10Nm at the most, there is a secondary slotted cover screw making it virtually impossible for the pad retaining screw to come loose.
As Crispey says, if you do have to drill the threaded head off go careful or it will be an expensive repair.

 

Do not use a drill It's to easy to get it wrong and damage the calliper
Remove the calliper bolts and swing it away from the disc and fork... then get some mole grips and you can turn the pin out by gripping between the pads
Done it this way loads of times on rusty/neglected callipers...it works
When replacing the pin I personally wouldn't worry about torquing it up I just nip them up with plenty copper slip on the threads and refit the slotted cap...again with copper slip on the threads

 

This type of extractor works well on an Allen screw

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extractor-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T54321PWZ2C4JS851C2S

 

AAAW! wheres your sense of adventure, there's plenty of hex head there and as long as your'e careful, used as a last resort of course

 

I agree with Dilligaf but when I discovered that the hexagon head was already rounded off on the pin on my old T100 I managed to drill it out carefully with no drama.

 

.......you might even find an old drill bit in a drill driver on hammer reverse (anti clockwise) might free it off.

 

You might also try heating the caliper ( carefully ) with a heat gun.

If its that tight you are going to need to be very carefull not to mess up the caliper try the mix DD has suggested and then try tapping in a tight fitting torx bit and try removal that way, the tapping in of the torx bit also helps free everything for removal !

 

hi ,forget wd40 go to screwfix and get some plus gas it way better than wd40
jason

 

Must be bloody tight if mole grips didn't move it
Good luck mate and let us know how you get on

 

Is there any way you can file two flat edges to to existing pin? This would give molegrips a better purchase

 

Hi Tappers, when you eventually get the old pin out, coat the threads of the new one in copper-ease grease then screw in place. This will stop the corrosion that's causing your current problem.

Incidentally when I had a problem getting a brake pin out, as someone above said find a good tight fit torx bit and tap it into place then continue tapping (not hard just continuous) about 30 times. This will help to break the corrosion holding the pin in place - now just wind it out !!!!

 

if its not up to torque it cant be tight, Do you have imperial hex they should be slighty larger than metric and would stick in or use trox bit. good luck.