Fitting a Speed Triple front end to a Street Triple 675R 2013 onwards

Hopefully you're reading this thread out of interest and not out of necessity.

If you have crashed your bike and you can't find used '13 - '14 Street Triple R forks for love nor money to fix it... read on and relax. You'll be back on 2 wheels in a jiffy.


Background:

I swapped a cat D 2008 Fiat Rep R1 Ltd Ed for a Cat C 2014 Street Triple R with only 1200 miles on the clock.

I had no info on the incident but the major damage indicated a head in collision and the bike falling on its right hand side.

The damage was as follows:

Bent forks
Buckled wheel
Buckled disc
Smashed rad cover fairing
Some scratches to other panels
A dent in the tank.

Obviously, the biggest issue getting the bike back on the road was obtaining the mechanical replacement parts with the aesthetic components an as-and-when replacements.

The bike I obtained came with a complete Speed Triple front end that the seller had obtained at a decent price without knowing if it would fit.

The long and skinny of this thread is that it does fit, only a 3mm spacer is required to pack out the headstock.

Parts required:

You will need almost every part of a Speed Triple front end.

-Upper and Lower Yokes including stem
-Forks
-Wheel
-Calipers
-Discs
-ABS sensor if needed (The original is too short to be re-used )
-Front brake Master cylinder to suit Brembo calipers. (The Nissin master cylinder will operate the Brembos but it doesn't feel particularly effective. I'm not sure if the piston size is different.)

Parts that can be re-used:

Handle bars
Switch gear
Handle Bar clamp uppers and lowers
Head Race Bearings
Axle
Spacers
Brake lines
Tyre
Hugger

Parts to Fabricate:

Spacer - 30mm inside dia 50mm outside dia. 4mm thick. It's a big washer.

The stops on the lower triple need to be ground off and re-welded on the other side. You can figure this part out yourself. You'll fail an MOT if there are no stops.

Note - I used a spare castlated nut as a spacer at first that I had laying around. By filing out the threads it was perfectly usable.

Tools needed:

Various metric sockets and spanners
Hex drivers or keys
Trolley jack / Lift / Ratchet Straps / A means of lifting the front end of the bike without using a headstock stand or front paddock stand.
Rubber Mallet
Flat headed screw driver
17mm Spindle Key
38mm Socket
8mm Spanner
5mm Rubber Tube
Some of them star shaped drivers - called T30, T35 etc. Not sure of actual sizes.
A glass jar
Brake Fluid



Method:

Please be aware that I am assuming you have the basic knowledge to carry out this mod. If you have the skills and equipment to remove the forks then you can do the job.

1 - Remove your damaged equipment.

Loosen the bolts you need to undo on the entire front end with the bike on the ground. Loosen one side of the triple clamps at a time and nip up one bolt on the lower triple before doing the other side. This will stop the bike sliding down the forks... I have watched this happen before as a result of my lack of foresight. and it's a pain to sort out after.

Lift the bike up at the front and remove the front hugger, axle, calipers and wheel.

Remove the forks.

Undo the stem nut and lift of the top triple clamp followed by the washer, 2 castlated nuts, one of which has a plastic skirt and the lower triple and stem.

You will need to drill out the security bolts holding the ignition barrel in place. Once you drill through around 4mm, keep going up drill sizes until the head breaks away and leaves the stud. You can remove the stud with pliers and use new bolts of your own choosing when refitting.

Remove the calipers and drain the fluid from the lines.

Lift the tank and remove the air box. Disconnect the abs connector and replace with the new one. This job is the hardest part. Replace it straight away and reassemble the air box and fuel tank. It then becomes easy again.

Rebuild the front using new parts:

Switch the bar mounts and ignition barrel to the new top clamp.

Place the Speed Triple lower triple and stem up through the headstock. The first item on there must be the spacer you will have to source, followed by 2 castlated nuts (skirt one first ) then the washer and the top triple. Don't forget to align the castlated nuts so that the steering lock will work when finished. Put on the stem nut and tighten.

Remove the banjo bolts from the Nissin calipers and fit them to the Speed Triple Brembos.

Switch the tyre to the new wheel if it's being kept.

Place the wheel with the spacers in between the forks and thread the axle through and tighten.

Fit the calipers to the fork bottoms.

Re-fill and bleed the brakes. (Replace the master cylinder before hand if you are going to)

Fit the hugger.

Re-fit the handle bars and switch gear using the Street Triple clamps.

FINISHED!

It really is that easy! All off, all on plus a spacer and you're away.

My donor bike was a 2013 Speed Triple .

I have had the suspension set up properly now and the bike is a hoot. I'm not sure on the changes in geometry but I can say that the springs in the forks are not too hard for the Street Triple 675 and they function perfectly well. The bike is sharp, responsive and thoroughly encourages hooning around. Everything I had heard Street Triples should be. Also, the Brembos with the proper Brembo Master Cylinder are sharp and responsive without being grabby. Stoppies are in order.

Enjoy your repaired bike's chaps!