Ok so shes not firing on cylinder 3 unless I remove the vacuum hose that comes off the tank (smaller one at the back) then it runs on 3 then 4 stops firing? All ideas and solutions please. I have a hose going into the opening on the right.hand side of carb 1 in a loop to rhs carb 3 . The vacum hose goes from tank to rhs carb 2.
A = the hose from tank to carb 2 B= Main tank hose to rail C= loop between 1 and 3 D= engine breather to airbox E= clutch cable
So started again today. Bike starts right up, running on three. Third cylinder no show again. I fear my oil level is increasing which would suggest its getting fuel and its not igniting and getting past the rings. I have good compression, over 120 on all cylinders. I have good spark. So it must be mixture, (guess). I have the carbs off again and have rebuild and cleaned again carb 3 and 4, ( 4 for reference and they both seem good. These are my inlet rubbers they all seem different and although very similar have different numbers stamped by the Suzuki Made in Japan logo. The one with the rubber o ring is from 4 and the other from 3. 26, 19, 24, 39, they look identical except two have o rings and two don't ,the offending cylinder had no o ring and some clear silicone around it. No cuts or tears How poorly does it need to fit to loose air and upset the mix enough to stop it firing? My only other thought is the bottom adjustment screw on the bottom was further in than the others. I cleaned and bench sync these carbs last week the all, have new Main and Primary jets, all other passage ways cleaned and the needle was raised 1 notch on all. All input appreciated.
They all should have an o ring James and don't forget 2 of the pipes from the carbs are breather an should go up hth
My gs was a pain would start on 3 on choke run for a minute then change to running on 4 drove me nuts
You should have Pipe for main fuel in Pipe for vacuum to petrol tape 2 # breather pipes going up to over the airbox 4 number overflows out the bottom You may need to balance the carbs by eye ie watch the slides opening and get them all the same Also check the pilot jet on the carb which isn't running is clean
How worn is the cam chain stretched? Mine ran much better once I fitted a new one £28 well spent and easy to change with a soft rivet type
Is that something I could get done after its on the road? I may have your problem where it will run on 4 when hot It would just be good to put it on the road square one everything working.
Also could be bad coil lead cap or plug is the bad pot the same if the swap the leads on the same coil over?
Yeah will go forever anyway just a stretched chain changes the cam timing can't rightly remember but I think the fecked chain was 7mm longer
Should be ok then but swapping a couple of plugs over will show that's not the problem if the problem remains
That's nothing miles they are a built proof motor but a new cam chain wouldn't hurt as I assume she's a keeper but try and get her running on 4 first
(In my experience) the vacuum connector would be blanked off on every carburettor except the one that is linked to the vacuum-operated petrol tap. Oil level rising and cylinder 3 not running suggests that the float needle is allowing petrol to flood number 3. Vacuum from carb 1 is connected to carb 3 vacuum. Could the vacuum be affecting the action of the float in carb 3? I'd try capping the vacuum pipes that are not linked to the fuel tap. If that makes no difference, then check the floats and float needles, and the float levels. EDIT: Beware of hydraulic locking.
I would agree that if the oil level is rising that its due to a bad float/needle on no 3 carb i presume that you have checked the floats for any punctures/leaks and the needles when you rebuilt them? it may be worth checking the fuel levels in each float chamber as that will affect mixture. One vacuum hose should be all that's needed for the fuel tap and i would also dump all others as they are a pain.
