Copper Grease On Spark Plug Threads?

Hmm, I would feel safer with anti-seize and do the finger tight and 1/4-1/2 turn rather than torque . Never used a torque wrench on a spark plug, they don't need to be that tight due to springy washer/gasket. Just my opinion. You can use a pencil on the threads which seems quite effective..

 

Surely this same logic applies to brake fasteners wheel nuts etc.
Maybe there should be two torque settings for everything...
We use stainless nuts and bolts at work and they really to bind up
if not lubed..

 

Be careful using any type of thread lubricant on your bike and especially on the spark plugs. The OEM torque settings are for clean and dry threads. If lubricated threads the torque will be different and you may damage something. And if you change plugs per the OEM schedule they should never seize up. So torque per the specs with no lubricant used is best.

 

What about the rear axle nut? I applied some anti-seize on there as it felt coarse on the thread and
used the standard torque (well about140 Nm..) it can't be unusual for wheel nuts to end up
lubricated surely ??

 

Galling of stainless steel fasteners is a regular issue. I would never put stainless to stainless dry.
Never used anti seize or a torque wrench on spark plugs though and never had a problem.
Once had a socket fouling on the head casting on something so the torque value would be meaningless anyway.

 

I do likewise but recently read an article saying that you shouldn't for the same reasons as this post.
I've done it for years and intend to continue.

Spark plug fitting is all about feel and on deeply recessed plugs a piece of fuel pipe gets them in nicely. ALL DRY and then a fraction of a turn on a socket or spanner.

 

I've never used copper slip on plugs (or brake pads) an old lorry mechanic told me heat turns it to glue he might (is) a nutter though

 

I stopped using copper slip on brakes because of this and now use nickel paste which has a higher temperature rating. It’s great stuff and I’ve never had any seizing issues since using it.
I’d never use it on plugs though; just clean, dry threads, finger tight then 1/4 turn with a ratchet.

 

Funny an ex reme lorry mechanic also told me a similar tale.

I always have and will continue to do so.

 

I’ve been on the spanner’s since I left school I put copper slip on EVERYTHING including spark plug threads

 

Rule of thumb: dry threads and torque per OEM specs.

 

If you leave any kind of grease on a spark plug for an extended period of time it will get rather sticky and go hard eventually, but if you remove plugs quite often then its fine...as for torque wrench i have never used one on a plug...or anything else other than head or con rod bolts not need if you have any kind of mechanical sympathy plugs just need a tweak...seen so many stripped plug threads through people believing they need to swing on them like a gorilla because they are in a combustion chamber..

 

Just a thought.
Copper + aluminium = galvanic corrosion so I would not use copper slip on any aluminium surface.
It’s good on steel threads but that’s it.
Someone mentioned pencil lead aka graphite. That would be a much better anti seize lubricant for threads in aluminium.
Taff

 

Having served as a mechanic in the RN I serviced Devon and chipmunk aircraft . Both piston engine . Copper grease was never used on plugs but all plugs had a smear of graphite grease , new washers but never torqued . I don't remember ever using copper grease . After leaving and working in the motor trade Copper grease was used on almost everything . Something I continue to do to day at home .

 

NGK & Bosch training courses pushed home the point that under no circumstances should copper slip grease be used on the threads of spark plugs on account that 1) would affect tightening torque 2) could affect earthing of said product. Just saying

 

Coppaslip on steel fasteners. Still using it on the back of brake pads.
Never ever used it on spark plugs, never even heard of doing it , till I read this !!!
Use acf50 grease a lot to stop corrosion, such as on my brake linkage for the freelander, but generally coppaslip on threads.

Rebuilt my Series III Land Rover using all stainless bolts and a tub of coppaslip. Was regularly dunked in mud and water, came to pieces as and when required. No problems.

 

I use sticky chain oil on everything except brakes. The amount of spannering paid off with oiled bolts, plugs and more.