Combined Front Auxilliary Light And Indicator

With nights drawing in I started thinking about visibility at night on my Street Twin. Having looked at threads on here and read around it seems front auxiliaries are about the most effective. Had a hunt around for replacement front indicators trying to find a combined auxilliary and indicator, but no luck. Perhaps it isn't legal or it isn't practical.

Anyone know of anything? Or failing that, any simple effective wearable lights or something? I am not averse to wearing or adding reflectors if they are fairly tidy but not sure people pulling out on me would see a reflection from them anyway.

 

Thanks littleaid and stinger, both give food for thought, I hadn't thought of mounting near the tank.

 

Well after some helpful advice via email and a call to my insurance company. I have ordered the following from Alchemy parts linked by Stinger;

Black bullet style combined LED indicator and running light.
In line resistors (to slow flash rate of LED).
41mm fork clamps.

I intend to fit them so I can reverse if needed, will let you know how it goes with pics, going to be a while as I intend to get some bits powder coated whilst I am at it.

 

Thanks again for the info mountainstumble, will be trying that. I found this Triumph PDF of the LED indicator fitting instructions and looks like type 4 should do it;
http://www.triumphinstructions.com/P...9838039-EN.pdf

My Alchemy indicators/DRL and 43mm mounts have arrived. I realised that the connectors that came with the lights were different. After some hunting online I discovered that Triumph use 'Molex' style connectors. I ordered ordered some of these molex style connectors from Mouser, reasonable price but eye watering delivery, there must be a better way to buy these;
538-02-09-2118
02-09-2118
CRIMP PIN BULK 18-22
NOV 24, 2019
20
0.137 2.74

538-02-09-1119
02-09-1119
CRIMP SKT BULK 18-22
NOV 24, 2019
20
0.127 2.54

538-03-09-2011
03-09-2011
1 CIRCUIT PLUG
NOV 24, 2019
20
0.173 3.46

538-03-09-1011
03-09-1011
1 CIRCUIT RECEPTACLE

The indicators come with a flanged nut that didn't fit inside the bracket, so I had to cut two opposite off of the flange with a hack saw, easy enough. I decided to use loctite on the threads and then greased the outside to protect from corrosion. The wires come out of the middle of the bolt.


I had thought I would need to drill a hole for the cable and even bought some little grommets but when fitted the clamp leaves a space for the wires to pass through. Here is one of the indicators and brackets on the bike hiding above the original one.


In researching how to fit these I discovered that the whole point of my project was not possible. It turns out that DRL's must not be used at night and must be automatic or switched... Well, since I had got this far I figure at least I will have better daytime visability. So I bought one of these handlebar mounted, halo LED latching switch;


This came without explanation of the colour coding. After some research and playing with a 12v supply and multimeter I worked out the following;
Black - Switch LED negative
Red - Switch LED positive
Green - Switch common
White - Normally open NO switched
Blue - Normally closed NC switched

I want to switch a live for the DLR so will attach a live to the green switch wire and will attach the white normally open switched wire to the DLR wire in the indicators. In order to make the switch to light up when the DRL is switched on I will attach a neutral to the black switch LED wire and will attach the red switch LED wire to the white normally open switched wire.

I also came across a craft way to get an ignition switched live from the horn. Just need a piggy back spade connector. This was the last piece of the jigsaw that means the new indicators can be fitted in a totally reversible way. I did consider a relay, but LED are very low wattage and current.

 

Got the indicators and DRL switch onto the bike. The only mistake I know of was trying to use the horn negative for the switch halo LED. Realise it must be switched negative since the live seems to be always on. Toyed with getting a negative from the indicators connection, but decided not to since;
A, the new indicators are working and
B the DRL come on with the switch, and
C that I don't know what I am doing,

So I just disconnected the switch halo LED completely.
I found 'type two' gave a good rate of flash so thanks mountainstumble.

What's the best way to deal with unconnected wire ends? They currently have a molex filled with silicone grease.