Clutch Disc Replacement 2005 Thruxton

I’m going to do an idler boss reinforcement on a 2005 Thruxton. Since I’ll have the clutch cover off I’m going to check the clutch and most likely replace the discs. I have the clutch restraint tool for disassembly and assembly. I’ve understood the job can be done without the clutch alignment tool. Any thoughts and recommendations appreciated.

 

I’m learning toward not buying the alignment tool. One of my shop manuals indicates it can be done without, so without I’ll go.

 

The parts came in a bit back, but had other jobs to do. Going to start this this weekend.
I’ll also be doing the idler boss reinforcement first.

 

Started disassembly. Removed shift linkage, clutch cable, and bolts. Disconnected breather hose tube and clamp. Tapped the cover with a rubber mallet and used a handy piece of wood to break the seal on the cover. Pushed the breather tube connector and wiggled the loose cover off.

Nothing too unusual, some crud oil. Good chance to clean it a bit.

 

Since I’m doing an idler boss reinforcement, removed the wavy washer, the idler shaft and the idler gear. Note the last picture, the boss walls are not even, weakest on the right side. The shaft hole is a bit offset. Reinforcement is probably not a bad idea.

 

I’ll do some cleanup before starting any install or removing the clutch discs.

 

I’ve done adjustment to it recently. I’ve had some minor issues going into gear, before the adjustment. I’ve had the motorcycle for two years, but I don’t know the last time it had a clutch job or not. Since I was going to reinforce the idler boss it just seemed like a good idea to do both jobs. The clutch plates probably had some life left. I’ll take them out and measure. See what I can learn at the same time.

 

A better performance clutch is never a bad idea.

 

Interesting problem. The Barnett High Performance Clutch kit has seven friction discs and seven steel discs. It should have had only six. Two of the seven steel plates are thicker and then there are five thinner discs. Question is which six do I use?

 

I removed the old clutch discs Friday. I have some partial answers to my questions. I’m still curious what is listed in the part list and contacted the manufacturer. If the set is only meant to have one thicker disc or two. If with only one then is it wrong to use both thicker plates. I suspect I could use both the thicker ones and four of the thinner plates. The vendor mentioned something about being able to fine tune with a thicker disc. Sounds good. It would increase the stack height slightly.

The steel plates on the original have shiny patches, but the old stack is slightly thicker than my new Barnett. Go figure.

 

Finally had time to work on the Thruxton again. Cleaned up the idler boss. Put the white dot on. Mixed some JB Weld and stuck the reinforcement in place. Cleaned up the edges. Now waiting 24 hours before putting the shaft and idler gear back in place.

Now, to start cleaning off gaskets and miscellaneous items. Waiting on a response from the clutch disc manufacturer. If I don’t get a response, I’ll install the two thicker steel plates on both outsides and four of the thinner in between. Soaking discs now. I’ve read people have different time recommendations, not sure if more is bad or less good.

 

The clutch disc replacement was a fairly straight forward job. The biggest job was removing gaskets and miscellaneous clean up I decided to do. Center bolt 105Nm. The bearing assembly torqued to 9Nm. It indeed was a very fiddly job. Took me hours to do. Had to stop and walk away two to three times. Done in an afternoon though. Then complete the clean up and remember to install the wavy washer on the idler boss gear shaft and install cover. Cover bolts at 9Nm as well and the gear selector screw 9Nm. Fill with oil and done.

 

The final steps, cover and adjustments. Time to ride!