Bar end Mirrors - removing the original fixing

If you're talking about the fixing inside the bar, you don't remove it. You leave it in place and use it to attach your new mirrors

 

Do you mean the insert that the bar end weights screw into? If so biglad is right - I have just fitted bar end mirrors to my SE and found that the expanding fixing on the mirror would not fit into the space between the insert and the ends of the bar. I didn't use the fitting in the end but bought longer bolts so that I could attach them directly to the insert whilst still using my original bar end weights.

On my T100 I did remove the inserts when fitting my Halcyon bar end mirrors. They were welded top and bottom and I used a big hammer with my largest flat bladed screwdriver to hit them out. One good whack and it broke the weld - but be warned - the inserts get jammed in the bars.

 

There are two different thread sizes used on the bar inserts, I think it depends whether its standard or R version as they have different bars. I have the Triumph bar end mirrors fitted to my R and the first set the dealer sent were wrong with bolts too large. From memory it's M5 for standard and M4 for the R (but I could be wrong) - standard pitch for both.

 

On the SE they are M5 x 0.8 x 30mm

 

Why don't you just take the original bolt to your bolt shop and say I want some like this but a bit longer.

Or alternatively, do what I did. Fix your new mirrors with the bolts that were already on the bars, holding the end cap in place. They were sufficiently long to fit mine ??

 

If it's M5 then pitch is 0.8, if you've got M4 then it's 0.7 pitch

 

When i changed my bar end mirrors I just reused the bolt and bar end, worked a treat.

 

That's what I did but had to buy a longer bolt than the standard 30mm one.
Just check the correct bolt for your bike on the parts page of world of triumph.

 

It sounds like using longer bolts is the easiest and best fix, but if you do need to remove the bar end inserts, the use of a slide hammer is a simple and effective method.
A simple slide hammer can be made up from a long hex head bolt screwed into the insert to be removed.
A heavyish drilled weight (the hammer bit) is used to 'slide' up the bolt and repeatedly 'hammered' under the head of the bolt until the insert is removed.
It is important that the bolt is screwed into the insert as far as possible to gain maximum hold and minimise the chance of the thread stripping.

 

Not really a professional solution DD, just a longish bolt and a heavyish bit of steel with a hole through it, clearance on the thread diameter but small enough to hammer under the head of the bolt.
Great little nick-nacks to have in your tool kit.

 

Ah!!!
Tool kit....
Nick-nacks that do stuff.....
That'll be a professional then.

 

It all depends what level of Trade card you blagged, wether or not you can access 'nick-nacks'
You could try 'Paddy-wack' initially, supplemented with 'give a dog a bone' if no joy!

 

Ah!!! Col_C
Not quite as professional as your very accurately quoted pitch sizes for a standard M4 and M5 thread.
I am impressed!

 

Sad but true, hopefully will be retiring from professional life in the next year or so.
You forgot to mention if the nick-nack doesn't work he could always try the thing-a-me-jig.

 

I find the wot-jer-ma-callit comes in handy as well particularly used with the truntling shaft.

 

I find sky-hooks come in handy, as well as the essential long-stand.