04 Sprint Major Engine Management Issues

I have a 2004 Sprint 955i RS with the single swing arm set up.
I have own the bike for the last 5 years with only a few minor issues. All in all it has been a great bike!

Initial problem:
I was riding home the other week and the instrument display started to blinked on and off and then went out. After investigation I found a wire (red) off a connector was frayed and only a few strands still connecting the wire. The wire had been rubbing against the frame. Shorting it out as well as my instrument panel. The plug (connector) that comes off the main wiring harness on the right side, all the way forward on the frame (it is right by the fan plug). I used a butt connector and heat shrink to fix it and taped the wires back up. Then I tie strapped the cable to the wiring hardness to keep it away from the frame. I hooked the bike up to my computer (ECU Tune) and cleared the code (the code I believe was: P1552 - cooling fan error code) and everything appeared to be ok. I checked out the cooling fan and found no issues and with the bike hooked up to the ECU Tune program I tested the fan and it stated that there were not faults found. The bike started up and all seemed well after a short ride to fill up the tank.

Current problem:
Sunday I broke down on a ride. The display just went blank and about a quarter mile later the bike just quit. I tried to start it but there was nothing. After about 45 minutes (waiting for help) the bike turned over a couple of time but the battery did not have the charge to start it. I then jumped the bike, it started but quit after I got it in gear and road it about 3 yards down the road.

When I got home I hooked up the OBDII, I got 8 error codes: P0351, P0352, P0353, P1351, P1352, 1353, P0230 and P1231.

Checking the ignition coils according to the shop manual, the coils should read 8 ohms. I got 1.2 ohms from the ECU terminals (2H1, 2H2, 2H4) to the Main power relay (pin 8). I then took the tank and air-box off and read each coil individually and got the same 1.2 ohms for all three coils. I checked for grounds and none were found. I find it hard to believe that all the coils would go out and that they would all read the same. Can this happen? That is, all the coils going out at the same time?
I checked the fuel pump circuit and could not find a fault.
I found the 30 amp main fuse was melted, yes melted. After I put everything back together and changed the fuse. I put the battery on a battery tender (it read 11.5 VDC). I hooked up the computer again and cleared the codes and did the limited diagnostic test that the ECU Tune program allows. All came back no faults.
With only 11.5 volt, I know the bike will not start so I again jumped the bike.
It idled just fine but after only a couple of minutes the main 30 amp fuse started to get hot to the touch. I stopped the bike.
I did replace the battery about a month ago.
I know there are still things I need to check, the charging system (alternator and rectifier). I will take the battery in and have it checked. I have not checked continuity to ground at the main fuse terminal with the key in the run position. All checks that have been done to this point have been with the battery disconnected and key in the off position.

Anyone have anything similar happen or anyone have info as where you think I should go from here?
Any help will be appreciated!!!
R/Paul

 

D’Ecosse, Thank you for your info and instruction! It is appreciated!

It is fuse 2 and will stop by the cycle shop tomorrow on the way home from work to pickup the needed wire, fuse holder and fuses to make that modification.

I will also do the checks you suggested. My wife’s birthday was today so it would not have gone over well had I spent the evening working on my bike.

I’ll be back on when I get my reading and hopefully a cause.
Thanks again! Glad your out there!

 

Rodger that, fuse 11 because it was running with the speedo blanked until the bike ran out of battery charge.

 

I am going to take a look at it and see. If it cleans up and I can get a good contact across the blades. I’ll run is and see if it heats up. That will be the test whether I bypass the fuse box or not.
Thanks for your help. Be leaving work soon and hope to have a cause in a few hours.

 

I am going to take a look at it and see. If it cleans up and I can get a good contact across the blades. I’ll run is and see if it heats up. That will be the test whether I bypass the fuse box or not.
Thanks for your help. Be leaving work soon and hope to have a cause in a few hours.

Well, I cleaned up the fuse blades and tighten up the fuse clip.
- I took the alternator connector apart and got infinity to ground on all three leads.
- Unplugged the rectifier connector to the battery and checked everything to ground and checked the connectors for any damage, non found.
- Connected everything back together, put the tank back on.
- I measured the battery prior to starting and got 12.8VDC.
- The bike fired right up and the voltage jumped up to 14.3VDC then settled out at 13.2 after running for a few minuted and slowly revving the engine up to 5k and back a few times.
- When the engine heated up and the fan came on the voltage was at 12.7VDC and when the fan cycled off the voltage went back to 13.2VDC.
- I took the engine off idle to 2k and held it there until the volts settled at 14.5VDC.
- Then repeated that at 5K it settled at 14.2VDC.
- I checked the fuse periodically and it did not get hot, stayed cool to the touch.

- then I found a leak in the at the quick disconnect, looks like I nicked the gasket during this process and will get another tomorrow.
- I will go over all the connections again and get it ready for a road test.
Are the numbers quoted above satisfactory? And what are your thoughts?
R/Paul

 

Thanks, I will keep that just Incase the fuse does that again.

 

Being new I attached this to a post above and though I would repost as to what I accomplished last evening.

- I cleaned up the fuse blades and tighten up the fuse clip.
- I took the alternator connector apart and got infinity to ground on all three leads.
- Unplugged the rectifier connector to the battery and checked everything to ground and checked the connectors for any damage, non found.
- Connected everything back together, put the tank back on.
- I measured the battery prior to starting and got 12.8VDC.
- The bike fired right up and the voltage jumped up to 14.3VDC then settled out at 13.2 after running for a few minuted and slowly revving the engine up to 5k and back a few times.
- When the engine heated up and the fan came on the voltage was at 12.7VDC and when the fan cycled off the voltage went back to 13.2VDC.
- I took the engine off idle to 2k and held it there until the volts settled at 14.5VDC.
- Then repeated that at 5K it settled at 14.2VDC.
- I checked the fuse periodically and it did not get hot, stayed cool to the touch.

- then I found a leak in the at the quick disconnect, looks like I nicked the gasket during this process and will get another tomorrow.
- I will go over all the connections again and get it ready for a road test.
Are the numbers quoted above satisfactory? And what are your thoughts?
R/Paul