Sprint GT Brake Pad Change And Abs

I got the dealertool when I did mine on my 2013 plate Tiger 1050 SE - worked well for me and I’ve had no issues since
https://www.thetriumphforum.com/thr...h-your-triumph-today.219/page-997#post-647903

 

I might be missing something here but, if, as you say, you're just changing pads, there's unlikely to be a need to top up the fluid - you're more likely to have added fluid as the pads wore and the master cylinder level dropped?

As long as you don't open any bleed valves and you're slow and gentle with prising back the calliper pistons ready to accommodate the new pads, then the ABS shouldn't be disturbed? Or is there something specific and technical about motorcycle ABS?

 

You can’t fit the new pads without moving the pistons back and that will need removal of some fluid. However, to clarify in my case - I had no idea how long before I got the bike that the fluid had been changed so chose to change it, both front and rear, when doing the front pads (the rear pads were replaced by the dealer as part of my purchase and still like new). Using the dealertool software allows flushing of the fluid otherwise trapped within the ABS part of the system.

 

Yes, I realise and accept all of that .... IF fluid has been topped up during normal use. Usually the level will drop slightly - as often as not enough to allow the pistons to be slowly/gently prised back into the calliper housing and allow sufficient clearance to extract and replace the pads. As long as that's done slowly, surely it won't affect the ABS - or am I missing something? After all, how many times have you bled the ABS on the car following a straightforward pad replacement?

Perhaps a motorcycle ABS system is different - I don't know - but the operating principle is, I would have thought, the same.

Forgive me if I am missing something here or not explaining myself very well, but I got the impression that a simple pad change is all that's required, saving the more complex fluid flush and change for later? If it is a simple pad change, then, surely, checking the current level, slowly and gently prising the pads apart enough to extract and replace the pads would suffice? One of these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/NEILSEN-TO...xt&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A3Q74PP7G4SC3K&gQT=1

might make life a bit easier, too.

Clearly, if I'm holding the entirely wrong end of the stick here, then simply smile benignly, put it down to my age and carry on as normal!!

 

No you’re not wrong. - a fluid change is not necessary when changing the pads. My Tiger had done over 30,000 miles of which I had only done a couple of thousand. So, for my own peace of mind, I chose to do a full fluid change to purge any existing brake fluid from the full system - front, back and both elements of the ABS system . However, to bleed the ABS modules you need to use the dealertool to cycle the solenoids and allow free passage of the trapped fluid out.

 

I’m entirely with you. I don’t see any reason why a change of pads should require any diagnostic tool to be connected.

Also, if anything you may need to remove some brake fluid not top it up.

With regard to the two year ritual of changing brake fluid, buy yourself a brake fluid tester and do it when needed not when told to.

 

Dealertool (that I have nothing to do with) is a useful bit of kit to the home maintainer. You can find out more on their site if interested
https://dealertoolcouk.ipage.com/wp_site_1730329252/

 

I have no doubt that it is, and if it were available for my MacBook I would have no hesitation whatsoever in purchasing a copy.

OK I can use bootcamp to partition the hard drive, use Parallels to run a virtual machine or even pay Microsoft $41/month to run it in the cloud. All of which will more than double the cost, and, more importantly, require me to bugger around with the configuration of my MacBook Pro which I’m not prepared to do.

So until these guys get to grips with Apple silicon I’m stuck with reluctantly using the dealer where absolutely necessary.