T140 D (1982) Bought For Restoration.

Yes, it is the drive sprocket to the rear wheel which is solid, but even if rusted to the shaft, it should still turn? That is why I’m thinking seized clutch, or even gearbox at the moment.

 

Ah! Therein lies the problem! The chain itself appears to be stuck solid and so far I am unable to get it out! Also unable to select any gears although the gear change shaft is free. The engine turns over sweetly which maybe now is a concern...

 

Thanks all. Will try some more ideas today… Once I find out what is going on, I’ll post!

 

OK, guys. Need some advice here…
The barrel base nuts are so badly corroded that I am having real trouble getting them loose… I have succeeded in 3 of the 6 sided nuts, and broken a nut splitter on the 4th, leaving a challenge to complete the removal.
On top of that, I cannot make any impression at all on any of the 12 point nuts, so corroded are they.
All have been sprayed with WD 40 and ATF/Acetone over the weeks but no joy. I am thinking of soda blasting the base of the barrel to see if I can remove the rusted crud enough to get better grip with the 7/16 AF tools that I have.
In the meantime, has anyone got some tips/ideas on this?

And it was going so well….

 

Yup. Have a hand gas torch. The main problem with the 12 point nuts is the amount of crap on them. A 7/16 AF wont fit at all, and they are almost at 1/2 AF size!
The position of the nuts, basically under a balcony, do not allow much access especially behind the nut, so trying to dig the crap out is very difficult, hence the idea of the soda blast (I have all the bits and pieces including a compressor to do this…)

 

Oh yes! I love this forum always lots f people to offer advice with no nasty criticism…!!

 

OK. Finally the barrel is sitting on the bench!!! Have to say it looks in excellent condition - the bores are smooth and not tapered, in fact the measure 2.99” dia top and bottom and at 90 degrees. It looks like the bike was looked after at some stage, and that the mileage (45k) would seem genuine.
Pistons good (some black around the gudgeon pin sides), rings brown but not broken, head gasket in good shape. Most of the above will be renewed obviously. (Along with the 12 point nuts and the odd stud or 4…)!!!
Once bench is cleared for the engine pull apart, the wheels and electrics can come out, and work on the frame can commence…
Getting to the interesting part now.

 

On another note, looked at the Harris valve stem lash caps - 71-3748B, but the price at £11 each net, and the extra 0.107” added to the height of the valve stem made me look around!
Found Valve Stem Lash Caps for 5/16" STEMS Part No: ‘050465’ from RGM (have used them many times for the Commando parts) at £14 for 4 inclusive of delivery and VAT, and the height increase is only 0.040”
Bargain says I...

 

Right. Finally got to the stage where the only item holding the engine in the frame is the lower engine mounting… All the videos I have watched show that once the nuts are removed, the stud slides out. Yeah, right! Have both nuts removed and the stud is absolutely solid, as if someone has welded the thing into the frame! Of course they haven’t, but no amount of hammering (with ally dolly or copper head) will move this stud at all. Have applied copious amounts of ATF/Acetone spray, and now contemplating turning bike on its side (so I can see what is what under the bike), and using heat to try to loosen it.
Failing that, Mr Dremel may be used to remove offending part…
If I ever get through this project, I will be more careful when selecting my next victim!!!

 

Quick question: What is the easiest way to remove the camshafts from the T140 engine? Have heard that the LH crankcase has to be removed (it is), but can’t see any obvious way the camshafts slide out?
What I am I missing?