Heiana, Usa, And Almost 70 Years Old, And Own A 1965 Triumph Tr6 Which I Bought In 1995.

This was the ad from an old Walnecks magazine that I saw, and bought it from

 

Welcome to the forum. A nice looking pair of Triumphs there with the GT6 Mk1/2 in the background.

 

Thank you. I don't know why but I loved Triumph cars, and bikes since learning to drive.
I had a 1970 GT6+ I bought in 1972 right out of high school, sold it about 3 years later, and kicked myself, then found this one in 1989. It was rusted out but ran fine.
The photo is of the GT6+ about 1974

 

Greetings from Lincolnshire.

 

Eyup.

 

Thank you

 

Thank you

 

oh no. nothing is stock except the gearbox. theres a thread on it in the competition forum.

why isnt your machine charging?

 

I'll check your thread out.
As for my bike not charging, if I knew I would've fixed it two weeks ago
I'm thinking the Boyer Power Box is going bad or gone bad but right now I'm going through the wiring trying to clean up 58 years of people messing with it, including myself. I really don't think I'll find anything because it ran, and charged perfect up until starting it up a few weeks ago after it had been sitting for several years.
If I don't find any shorts or something that would be drawing the voltage then it would have to be the Power Box.

 

i have no experience with the power box. you're not running a battery? if you have a bnattery thats not charging the problem could be a bad old battery, a bad NEW battery, the boyer box, or anything in the harness.

if it worked before but doesnt work after sitting the likeliest culprit is corrosion in the wiring or even a loose connector. look at the leads leading from the alternator under the motor into th epower box. then check the leads from the powerbox to the boyer unit, to the battery if there's one there, and any ignition switch or kill switch you may have in between.

how much of a stock harness do you have left? the colours of the wires are standardized according to what they do,

when you check these connections, actually pull them apart, clean them with a wore brush, then reassemble with dielectric grease to keep moisture out. sometimes pulling em apart will reveal that they are broken inside.

does it run at all?

@darkman
@Iron

 

My Triumph runs perfect. It's always started first or second kick even if it sat for three years. It doesn't miss a beat, and the plugs couldn't look better when inspecting them. When I first installed the Boyer Power Box I ran without a battery. The lights were dim and hardly worked at idle so I went back to a battery. The bike was 6 volt originally so I went to 12 volt system.
I just bought the battery and it hold a charge sitting, so I'm guessing it good since it loses voltage while riding. I'll charge it and everything is fine. As far as I know the harness and switches are original other than some of the wiring being messed with. It's still positive ground also. A guy on another Triumph forum has been suggesting things and he says what you just said, to pull all connections and clean, grease and repair any suspects so that's what I'm doing now.
I had replaced the stator rotor around 1998 with a higher output unit, and installed the Power Box and Boyer electronic ignition.
A few days ago I pulled the 2 stator wires off, had the wife give it some throttle while I checked the AC output. I got 35 to 45 volts around 2500rpm and it climbed as she gave it more throttle so I figured that's good.
I think it's the Power Box unless I find some wiring faults. I'm not knowledgeable at wiring at all. I can if I have very clear instructions or someone telling me what to do, beyond that it's all magic
Last night I scrapped all the nonfunctioning wires that were taped off and hanging, the old wires from the stator to the original Rectifier that ran to the switch also, now I'm looking into grounds and anything I can clean up or eliminate.
I looked at your thread in the competition thread. You've got a mean looking Triumph and the reading is interesting. It's nice your son's are in it too. One post you were talking about losing weight, have you slimmed down your bike all you can? I'm not into racing or racing mechanics but in 1974 I bought a new Suzuki RL250 Trials bike, and got into Trials riding. I had a guy swiss cheese the head, and barrel to lighten it. He said it probably wouldn't make much difference but when he got done he said he was really surprised how much it lightened it. You can see it in the photo attached. I don't know how that would work on a 4 stroke but it's something you could look into or maybe you already know .

 

My Triumph runs perfect. It's always started first or second kick even if it sat for three years. It doesn't miss a beat, and the plugs couldn't look better when inspecting them. When I first installed the Boyer Power Box I ran without a battery. The lights were dim and hardly worked at idle so I went back to a battery. The bike was 6 volt originally so I went to 12 volt system.
I just bought the battery and it hold a charge sitting, so I'm guessing it good since it loses voltage while riding. I'll charge it and everything is fine. As far as I know the harness and switches are original other than some of the wiring being messed with. It's still positive ground also. A guy on another Triumph forum has been suggesting things and he says what you just said, to pull all connections and clean, grease and repair any suspects so that's what I'm doing now.
I had replaced the stator rotor around 1998 with a higher output unit, and installed the Power Box and Boyer electronic ignition.
A few days ago I pulled the 2 stator wires off, had the wife give it some throttle while I checked the AC output. I got 35 to 45 volts around 2500rpm and it climbed as she gave it more throttle so I figured that's good.
I think it's the Power Box unless I find some wiring faults. I'm not knowledgeable at wiring at all. I can if I have very clear instructions or someone telling me what to do, beyond that it's all magic
Last night I scrapped all the nonfunctioning wires that were taped off and hanging, the old wires from the stator to the original Rectifier that ran to the switch also, now I'm looking into grounds and anything I can clean up or eliminate.
I looked at your thread in the competition thread. You've got a mean looking Triumph and the reading is interesting. It's nice your son's are in it too. One post you were talking about losing weight, have you slimmed down your bike all you can? I'm not into racing or racing mechanics but in 1974 I bought a new Suzuki RL250 Trials bike, and got into Trials riding. I had a guy swiss cheese the head, and barrel to lighten it. He said it probably wouldn't make much difference but when he got done he said he was really surprised how much it lightened it. You can see it in the photo attached. I don't know how that would work on a 4 stroke but it's something you could look into or maybe you already know .

 

I forgot to ask you. What type carburetors are on your bike? Are they the flat slide racing carbs? I was reading about a flat slide racing carbs that was used way back, maybe the 1950s or 60s that only had something like 3 parts in them but I can't remember what they were called

 

they were gardners or pozifuels or maybe lectrons. those are the traditional flat slide carbs. the TM mikunis are vastly better than all of them except the lectrons. better throttle response and flow. id use them in my street bikes except i already have lots of alternative needles and jets for the VM mikunis and i wont change.

on the race bike, i use keihin FCRs, flat slides. very simple and they tune with conventional needle/needle jet, main jet and pilots. way more tuning options than i need.

my LSR machine weighs 280 pounds when its set up to go. maybe 125 pounds less than a stock machine.

 

check your battery while you have a load on it. make sure its charged, put a VOM on it, and then turn it on. a charged battery at 13.5 volts shouldn't drop significantly once you put the load from the ignition coils onto it.

if the battery passes, and the connections to and from the boyer box and the boyer ignition box show the same voltage, i would suspect the boyer box.

youve already found that the alternator can put out more than you will ever need. if you decide to change out the boyer box, a podtronics is currently the state of the art on this stuff. there are some others, but i have had good experience with podtronics.

 

Ok. Yes, Gardners was what I was thinking of, and read about years ago. They sounded so simple but effective.
Your bike is really light then. Thanks

 

I’m a bit late to the party, but hi and welcome to the forum.

 

Thank you

 

You will. It’s all in the mind.

 

Thanks