Charging Issue.

Mike_TX · Sep 21, 2023

I've got a 2010 tiger 1050 (by far one of the best feeling bikes I've ever ridden ) I bought it in San Antonio a few weeks and rode it home to Corpus Christi (130 or so miles) really didn't have any issues on the ride home. Shortly after getting her home I noticed it started to start more and more sluggishly till it won't start then I replaced the battery. Even with the new battery it does the same thing. I charge the battery on a battery tender and even if I go on longer rides the bike runs fine, I do only get 4 maybe 5 starts before the battery is drained though. I tested the stator and an getting 0 ohms when the bike is off. When it's running voltage is fine as well. I've eliminated the stator from needing to be replaced based off the two tests. I'm leaning towards the rectifier but am not 100 percent sure. Y'all have any advice?

Traveler · Sep 22, 2023

'Guessing' what the defect is can get expensive. Take it to a qualified tech with the experience & proper testing equipment.

JMHO

MightyBoosh · Sep 22, 2023

Can you clarify which voltage you believe to be OK? Ordinarily people refer to the voltage being received at the battery terminals in this regard. With the engine running you'll be seeing somewhere around 13.5V DC at the terminals. If it's noticably higher, say 14.5 t0 15V, that's a problem. Too low is equally so of course. Overcharging can boil the battery, undercharging will predispose the battery to going flat. The point is, if your voltage here is OK, I can't see it being the rectifier, since that is rectifying AC to DC, and my understanding is that your DC is good.

ManInTheJar · Sep 25, 2023

Mike_TX said: ↑

When it's running voltage is fine as well.
Click to expand...

What voltage are you getting and does it vary with load?

A good battery should be around 12.4 to 12.7V when fully charged and disconnected or with the ignition off (provided you don't have any significant loads like an alarm).

Charging voltage should be somewhere between 13.5 to 14.5 V at around your engines normal mid-range speed. Any lower and there is insufficient differential to charge the battery and any higher will start to overheat the battery.

A couple of other thoughts:

Stators can have good cold continuity readings even if they have failed so it's not an absolute certainty that it is OK.

If the battery is discharged and it charges really quickly then that can be a pointer to a failing battery.

It should be relatively easy to access the stator, without draining the engine oil (you will get a slight dribble). This will let you check for signs of overheating/burning.

The regulator/rectifier is probably a Shindengen. Loads of compatible used units will be available online for reasonable prices, for example I used one from a BMW SB1000 on my Street Triple. This is easier and cheaper to fit than a stator if you decide to go down the replacement route and might also offer an upgrade on your charging system