Street Triple 765 Bar End Mirrors

Have crg lane splitters (they fold in) on my 18 street triple rs, good vision & much better.

 

Get a set of OEM mirrors from a street triple 765rs, they are a straight swap.

 

Are the bar ends not the usual expanding Rawlbolt type fixing? If you have just unscrewed the hex cap head screw completely you will see a threaded piece in the end of the handlebars. To remove it completely you need to unscrew the screw, but not completely and tap the head which will push the conical wedge further into the end of the bar which should allow you to remove the complete bar end assembly.

My reason for asking is I have bought a cheapo pair of bar end mirrors for my Street Triple R to try out to see which mirrors I favour.

 

The threaded plug in the end of Triumph handlebars is fixed and not the removeable rawlbolt style used by aftermarket brands. Triumph then use either a finisher cup to cover the bar end plug (if using normal mirrors) or clamp their bar end mirrors around the end plug and finish the end with a cap.

If you follow this link to World of Triumph's parts pages you can see how the bars are made up and the mirrors fitted.

World of Triumph | Parts Finder – World Of Triumph

I'm pretty sure if you tried to remove Triumph's plug it will very difficult and a one way trip.

Sorry if that isn't what you want to hear.

 

Just the job. Many thanks for the insight. I will see if I can marry my cheapos (very) to what I find when I take the bar end off. I guess Triumph will tell you that this is the only way to ensure a firm fixing for the mirror whereas in reality it prevents the fitment of aftermarket mirrors (or am I just being a cynical old git?)

 

You're probably right and Triumph do get you to pay through the nose for their accessories. But Triumph do also have to put their parts and accessories through rigorous Type Approval. Hence if you look up their instructions for their accessories they come with loads of disclaimers and tell you not to ride faster than 80mph.

 

As I mentioned earlier I bought a cheapo (very) pair of bar end mirrors to try out and see if I favoured them over the OE bar mirrors.

@RevPaul kindly put me right as to what I might expect when I unscrewed the end cap, you are presented with a permanent M6 threaded hole which is 17mm deep the bar end cap is just that, a shroud to cover the fitting in the end of the bar which protrudes from the bar proper by about 10mm or so.

The mirrors I bought have the usual rawlplug type expanding fitting to grip the inside of a hollow bar. The screw supplied was the right thread but way too long so a quick delve into that box of useful bits ‘n bobs we all have to source a shorter one.

So this is what it looked like on first fit. You can see that the mirror is small compared to the OE ones, it’s also smoked and looks as though it magnifies the image. Either that or the OE ones shrink the image to increase the field of view.



Not very tidy. The black bit between the end of the twistgrip and the mirror mount is OE plastic but not continuous, rather like a split sleeve but immovable. The bit on the outside of the mirror mount is part of the mirror kit which should sit against the end of the bar and have the mirror mounted on it.

So tidy up the bar end arrangement and what could done with those mirrors which are smoked and were going to limit rear view.

The mirror mount just fitted this OE plastic sleeve, allowing the mirror mount to fit close to the end of the grips. The mirror kit bar end fitting was discarded and the OE bar end cap used. I didn’t have any countersunk screws to hand so ordinary cap head ones are in temporary use.

And then to those mirrors. It turns out that the OE mirrors and my cheapo ones have the same thread. So I just swopped them. Both sets of mirrors were well threadlocked and undone with great trepidation. Likewise the OE mirror fixing to the bars were well tight, a T40 is what you need but I found it a bit on the loose side. Until I source a proper plug for these I screwed the OE screws back in together with the four washers you will find on each fixing. They don’t quite screw all the way in so I put an O ring under the head. The clutch side screw stands more proud than the throttle side.

Having tidied the fitting up this is what they look like.





And now we come to the bottom line.

Since I bought them they have increased in price by 30% I only paid £10.09 including delivery.

Ironically the plugs to fit in the OE mirror fixing holes are going to cost me nearly as much as the mirror kit did.

 

I have bought these eBay mirrors in Black and just wondered how you manage to get the OEM mirrors to fit the eBay brackets?

I can unscrew the eBay mirrors from the bracket but the OEM mirror does not seem to want to detach from the original stalk. It seems like it is all one piece as a spanner does nothing other than round of the edges and even with it in a vice does not want to move a single inch.
Any help please?

 

What bike do you have? As I said in my post the mirrors were well thread locked into the OE stalks/Ebay brackets. Am out and about at the moment but will check the spanner size I used when I return home. In the meantime some penetrant spray would not go amiss.

 

It's a 2023 765 RS.
The bike is brand new so it appears to me as if there isn't a spanner End to go on it it looks almost as if it is one moluded piece?

I had it in a vice with a set of grips on it and absolutely nothing moved. It certainly isn't going anywhere with a 8mm spanner!

 

Ok, so it shouldn’t be any different to my 2021 Striple. Below you will see a close up photo of my mirror to bracket junction.

I definitely used an 8mm spanner but the fit is a tad loose so going through my small open ended spanners I found a ⁵⁄₁₆ AF was a better fit. As I said both OE and EBay mirrors were well locktighted into their respective brackets. Have you tried tightening them before unscrewing them?

Depending on how precious you are regarding the OE stalks you could try applying some heat, obviously a flame is out of the question, but maybe a soldering iron? The other option to ensure a snug fit for the 8mm spanner is to take up the slack in the fit by using an appropriate thickness feeler gauge. If the fit is really snug you may get away without damaging the feeler gauge.

 

Had a look at a new Striple in the dealer’s showroom whilst out on the bike this morning and didn’t see any difference between the new one and my photo above in respect of what is coming out of the mirror case. So it’s a question of taking extreme care when unscrewing the swivel joint from the stalk/bracket.

You might even consider getting hold of some mild steel strip of the appropriate thickness and filing yourself a bespoke spanner. How badly have you rounded the hex on the ball joint? Are you able to share some photos with us showing how you attacked it with the vice and grips and also the current condition of the hex.

 

Loctite cannot cope with heat so there's your line of attack.
A soldering iron, subject to wattage, may or may not be sufficient . If not then a nail, or similar, cooked to orange with a blowtorch, then direct contact to create conduction could provide an easy release

 

You guys are great!

Thank you very much to everyone who replied to this. It would not move for the life of me, so I tried a soldering iron to heat it up but it didn't quite have enough juice, but once I had put a butane mini flame torch on it an 8mm spanner moved it with ease.
Fantastic and now I can just swap it onto the new stalks.

Thank you to everyone.

 

A photo would be much appreciated.

 

So to be honest I don't think I will actually keep this setup because with the newer, shorter mount the mirror is actually getting in the way of your hands on the bars.

I do like the way these mounts connect directly to the bars rather than with the OEM plastic clip/guide, which I think is responsible for most of the vibration passing through to the mirrors.

I think it needs some longer, more forward mounts which also Mount direct to the bars but maybe a better quality as I actually managed to totally strip the threads of one of the mounts and ended up having to put a long bolt through it which looked rubbish.

 

I’m surprised that you find the mirrors get in the way of your hands on the bars. I like that, when riding, all you see is a mirror next to your hand. No stalk/arm visible.

Have thought about rotating the arms so that the mirror is below the bar?

 

Sorry, I forgot to reply.
Yes i did try and to be honest it doesn't work, all you can see is you own arms as the stalks are too short.
I think you need either longert stalks, which will make the bike wider, or re-fit the smaller mirrors which come with the set. The OEM mirrors can't turn enough without hitting the end of the bars.