Newfren Clutches

Hi Andrew none I'm afraid but am sure someone will.

 

Bizarrely I have just seen this on an Aprilia site
"I drove 4,000 kilometers on these newfren clutch spacers, burned rubber for the first time and I came back from the wedding without a clutch hahaha nothing but losses after the friends wedding For the first time it is not the stator "

 

Hey @Andrew Boulstridge I have just done this exact same clutch overhaul on my 2010 Tiger 1050, after similar gear selection issues.

https://www.thetriumphforum.com/threads/croatian-dreams-clutch-overhaul.33462/

I had just got the bike and the sticky selection only really reveled itself after getting very hot... I spent a while adjusting the cable, to my liking....and also "not to my liking" to try and eliminate it being a simple fix, but in the end I decided to dive in and do my first ever clutch pack overhaul.

I'm not a mechanic, but an eager tryer...so this was fairly daunting at first - don't know your level of competence, but with the erudite and patient help of people on this forum i got it done, and I am SO glad I did!

Gear changes are now buttery smooth.

I also found getting EBC difficult,.and found these on eBay

CK5599 EBC Motorcycle Clutch Friction Plates Set / Kit

From MandP... I also took the opportunity to just replace the springs as well...it's less than a tenner for a set, so seemed sensible.

As it turned out, the clutch friction plates were not EBC and I haven't done enough milage to know if it will matter - I'm not a wheeling kinda chap.... But after speaking with MnP they assured me they were a similar level of quality product.

Time will tell I guess, but for now at least it was a really worthwhile job, a)because it solved the issue, and 2) it allowed me to get arm deep in my new motorcycle and therefore enrich our new relationship.

In fact, the hardest job, of all of it, was removing the old gasket material....

Let us know how you get on! Feel free to PM me if I can be of use...

*For what it's worth, I did check the drive plates,.and they were not warped and seemed all fine after a light emery cleanup...

Good Luck!

 

Hi,
I went through the sticky clutch with my Sprint ST 1050. I changed all friction plates for EBC (soaked them in oil). The result was better but now after 10 000 km the clutch sticks more and more. So yes, change the steel plates.
I'm also considering NEWFREN ones. As they have a kind of print on, it may avoid the plates to stick.
I've also seen some TRW available but not as a full set.

Edit, by the way, I used the reinforced springs supplied with EBC friction plates, and it was a mistake. The clutch command is more difficult on long rides. As I'll change the steel plates, I'll switch back to the genuine softer springs.

 

There is also some info around about a modified lifter pin...that allows more oil circulation.

I do not know if it is a definite fix or not though...

https://www.thetriumphforum.com/threads/clutch-pin-mod.8016/

And some details on the actual "fluted" pin: https://www.google.com/amp/s/netrider.net.au/blogs/modified-clutch-pull-pin-tiger-1050.562/?amp=1

And: https://www.worldoftriumph.com/products/t1171234?_pos=1&_sid=78e4d62a8&_ss=r

In my somewhat novice opinion, it seems (?) there's an issue with oil getting to the plates, that prevents plate separation and it is that that leads to a sticky gear shift (this is distinct and different to a slipping clutch - it's the opposite)... However, if you can, getting more oil to the plates seems to help?

Whether that be a good soaking in oil of the plates (and clean,if you're that far in); or a modified pin, that allows better oil flow?

I found though that a clutch general cleanup, de gunk, replaced (and soaked) friction plates, cleaned and emeryed drive plates - checking for warpage, and replacement springs (replaced for new on my 12 yr old bike) and....so far....sticky clutch all sorted ...

 

Interesting. I may add this modified lifter pin to the next clutch opening.

 

Fow what it's worth...I did call someone - can't remember who, perhaps Wemoto, and they insisted that this pin is not compatible...but they were of course going off a specsheet or "computer says no"; I think from the links above or elsewhere..it does fit?

Any definitive answer or user experience would be brilliant!

 

Hey @Andrew Boulstridge , I feel you are more mechanically adept than I am, but just in case useful; after my clutch replacement as mentioned above I also had a fair amount of drag to adjust out...

Make sure you have a couple mm of free play at the lever, you need the system to be able to fully "unload".

I played around for a good while to get a balance between little/no drag, and enough throw of the lever to fully disengage the clutch for a smooth gear change...

I put the bike up in centre stand, and tried, in neutral, to have the rear wheel still - ie zero drag. However then I didn't seem to have enough lever pull to fully separate the plates to give a smooth gear shift.

I found that the real wheel moving a little was fine, when on the stand in neutral. Although the wheel was being driven round, it looked more driven that it actuay was. I could hold it with my hand/foot. And it certainly wouldn't move the bike if wheel on the ground... So that "drag" was fine, and gave enough lever throw to fully use the clutch and give the smooth gear changes I was after...

I won't lie, this took a fair while (an hour) adjusting both the engine end and the lever end to get a decent balance between perceived drag and clutch disengagement... I even went out with a spanner...and played around as I rode ..adjusting here....adjusting there...

To add a further layer if confusion I had adjustable levers ...and, although I wanted the lever close to the bar,.I simply couldn't as it didn't give enough pull for the clutch ...

Trial, error and patience is your friend. Good luck, keep us posted!