Sticky Clutch And Drag?

2010 Tiger 1050 ABS


I am confused about how much clutch drag...if any?

As I fiddle and fettle with my clutch:

• when in neutral should there be any clutch drag at all? Should the rear wheel move?

• When the clutch lever is pulled in, and first is selected, should there be NO drive until the clutch is [begun] to be released?

• Same with second etc...

I have got rid of any slack in the clutch cable adjuster at the engine.

I am playing with the lever adjustment rotator; winding it in or out, to remove any drag in neutral. If I can get the wheel still in neutral, as soon as I select first (lever fully pulled) there is quite some "drive", even though I haven't released the clutch yet. I would have thought(?) that if I haven't yet released the clutch...why is there drive at the wheel?

Ultimately I am trying to remedy a "sticky gear change"....

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks, I am in the middle of an oil change, just so I know, for sure, that the right oil is in it (not had it long and oil changed by previous owner).

Do you know what the drag should be?

Or simply be none at all whenever the clutch lever is pulled fully?

 

I am editing this thread as I am going to incorporate related issues.

I am suffering from the [dreaded?] sticky clutch...on the 1050 Tiger - which is why I was adjusting the clutch drag above, but I think there is more of an issue than just "cable adjustment".

In summary:

I think/feel that the clutch isn’t right…it’s difficult, especially when warm, to engage some gears, and only on some occasions. 2 to 3 mostly. And not every time.

I have adjusted the clutch cable, both at the engine - with no slack there now.
I have played with the slack adjustment at the lever…

I have replaced/ensured the oil is new and correct. (Motul 10/40 semi)

Gear shifts are initially fine, but seem to get worse as engine heats up. "Worse" = difficult to shift the gear lever. Either it is hard to move, or doesn't move at all. Releasing the lever and trying again gets it "shifted".

But it is giving me a sore left toe!

I am happy to consider a clutch pack. Again, this current one could well be 12 years old…? There is no record of a clutch replacement in the fairly thorough service history.

So that’s where I’ll consider going next.

I believe I need:

• A clutch pack
• Springs
• 3 gaskets
• Gasket seal?

Do I need to drain the oil? The oil is "new"; can I reuse it?

Clutch pack recommendations, advice, tales of comfort and woe etc all welcome!

 

Thank you!

What determines whether i should go genuine?



Out of interest, I have just seen, that these ones (Wemoto) are friction plates only...I guess I need the whole stack (potentially).

 

hmmm...this is causing some "frustratement"!

It seems that while "friction plate" kits are readily available...the steel drive plates are less so!

I am going to get the cover off and look at them drive plates...see if they need replacing

I can see now why that may indeed mean Fowlers....

 

Thanks @TRIPLE X ; I thought/hoped that, especially as it'll be leant over as well!

A couple of general questions for this "process"...

Do I need actual gaskets, or can/do I use gasket seal - or both!

I believe I need 3 gaskets (if using).

I understand that the friction plates are different sizes, with the first and last being thicker.

Are the steel drive plates all the same, or differ as well?

I have read lots about the "clutch pull rod" may need to be modified:



I believe the mod is a slight flattening of the shank (blue arrow)...or is there an upgraded part available?

The reason for the mod/upgrade being that the sticky clutch, which may be caused by: lack of oil getting between the plates, warped drive plates, or oil not getting past the rod - and a flat edge allows the oil to pass.

I am a little disheartened that my "new" bike is suffering in this way, if I am honest...nothing detrimental came up at test ride...however I feel the bike is in excellent shape - except for this, and I got it for a sterling price, so do not particularly mind the £150 or so to sort the clutch if needed - and of course the thrill of doing it myself! (with yours help of course )....

 

That's a really good diagnostic for drag, thanks @Pegscraper !

I will also be checking the warpage of the steel plates...

My "eager learner, non mechanic" mind tells me the following summary - there are two areas, in the main, that effect the clutch...

1 is slippage...
2 is stickage...

Slippage is likely due to worn friction plates...
Stickage is due to lack of oil (whether that be no friction plate soaking, tight pins etc), or warped drive plates..

 

continues thanks...

I have been for a ride out. Not sure if it was the correct "technique", but while cold, i had it in first (engine off) clutch released...and could not roll forwards.

Upon my return, engine hot...same again, still couldn't roll forwards...

As it happens though, regardless...the whole ride out was far smoother today on the whole...it was a joy to ride!

But I do heed the advice re check, check, and check again....believe me, I don't want to spend any money of I don't have to!

 

Had it helped?