Featured 1976 One For 2022

Jon of Digital Speedos got back to me and sent me this



He rewired a daytona sender so that it plugs straight into the electronic speedo I already have. So slackened off the back axle, moved round the cable drive and screwed the sender on



Pushed the drive round to it's correct position. The cable will then run along the swingarm up the frame and plug into the speedo cable under the tank.



Nice one. And worth checking Digital Speedos out as they have some replica vintage electronic ones which I'll be using for other builds, no doubt.

https://www.digital-speedos.co.uk/gauges-c4/motorcycle-gauges-c27

It makes a real change when there's proper customer service from people who know what you need and are prepared to go out of their way to help you out.

 

Something else arrived today. A double edged sword in a way.
The local custom bike builder is closing his doors as business isn't good enough with all the bills and rent. This last winter he's been trying to work in the dark (just one light on) and the cold (no heating) and even without the radio as the local clip board holders wanted him to pay for listening to it (apparently something businesses have to do).
So he's passed this onto me



It's proper heavy - a Kerry Drillmaster - came with a small seletion of drills and reamers



And with one of these



I'm gonna be stripping and renovating but should now be able to drill holes actually properly in line, straight and perpendicular to the metal.
A shame another business gone, he did really nice bikes too

 

Yep, leaving it there until I can take some bits off of it. I'd like to just undo the pinch bolt on the shaft and slide the drill section off. No chance, it's rusted on and much too heavy for an old fella like me - I'll get the Admin Staff to lift it. All that training with heavy shopping bags full of groceries will mean she'll just pick it up, one handed, and stick it into the base.

 

Here's my wiring diagram that's drawn around the ignition switch positions. (Took me ages to do).
Down the centre of the diagram are the ignition key positions. So they join electrically as the key is turned.
There's no electric start, rev counter or indicators but these are easily added if they are wanted.
The system is Negative Earth.
The battery warning light changes colour and/or flashes depending on battery condition and charging.
The electronic ignition is a Wassell Vape Ignition Kit (any ignition is basically the same but I like these).
It's important to ensure that there's a good earth strap from the negative side of the battery to both the frame and the engine.
Each component is shown on the diagram to wire back to earth to complete the circuit - this can be achieved by the item bolting to the engine or frame (as spark plugs, oil sender etc) or they can be wired back to the negative side of the battery.



Obviously my copyright but that's ok, just send me £100 every time you look at it........over...

 

Not been doing much lately, I think ye olde Hong Kong Fluey may have snucked into my nose and infected my gums as they've been larger than normal.
I've also been figuring this out. And being an obvious electrical genius I spotted the two bare wires almost immediately. (look top right )



Started taking his lordship apart for paint etc and found an issue I hadn't sorted. I had to find a spot for the the rear master cylinder reservoir. Welded a threaded top hat onto the battery box, sorted.



Loads of room inside the side panel



Just cut a new length hose and......



Blimey! "What large gums you have...", "all the better for breaking cutters with my dear......" Over...

 

All coming apart for paint.



Will sort out finishing off any spot welds done in the build and sanding old stuff off for primer. I must sort a sand blaster if I'm gonna keep on doing this, or maybe just take it to a powder coaters.
Remember this little guy



I'd spot welded a bar across the duplex frame members to hang the spirit bell on. Once the engine was out and the engine bolts removed they had actually moved apart by an eighth of an inch and broke the spot welds. I never knew the frame flexed that much due to bolting up. I thought there may be some but have never measured it.
The front mount on the engine is 2 inches wide, with the spacers in place on the mounting bolt the gap is 2 and an eighth. Well, there ya go. The viking spirit bell will have to go somewhere else.
Learning learning......over....

 

This is the most shit job ever. I think bad memories are shelved away in my brain in a place called "I've forgotten".
I've done quite a few frames and somehow I reckon I'll just start in one place and work my way round, it'll be a doddle. And it bloody ISN'T .



Luckily, before I wore my fingers away, Postman Pat brought me a nice new on/off and emergency stop switch for the hand-me-down pillar drill. So, any excuse, parked the frame



And wired up the switch to my absolutely luvly newly painted and operational machine.



I found a site with some details about these Mk1 Drillmaster pillar drills and contacted them about spares and the like. They replied:

"Unfortunately parts have not been available for decades - but I can supply the following very useful literature: "Drillmaster" Instruction Manual and Parts Manual as Sectional Drawings; includes a copy of two early and late maker's Technical Sales and Specification Catalogues. £30"

Goody Gumdrops, I'll have two I think

 

Back to the sanding etc. and then 2 pack primer and black with a 2 pack lacquer.



Always a bit of jiggery pokery when there's a few extra bits to do as well

 

So, while I was waiting on coats to tack off I had another look at that Akront rim I have.
The existing wheel was off so I compared the size by laying the rim on top. It looked like it was the same size. The custom builder who gave it to me said it should fit (and he's built a lot more bikes than I have). So, got my wheel building jig whatsit thingamy out and was playing with the new spokes.
The Admin Staff shows up with a tea. Luvly.
She has one look at the rim with spokes in it and says "that's wrong, that hole is pointing upwards so that spoke should go in there" and wanders off to look at the washing on the line. (Why do they do that? Can't it just dry on it's own? Why does it need to be fussed with?)
Fuck me, she was only right! Moved what the Triumph rim was 4th hole spoke into 3rd hole on the rim and it pulled everything tight and into line. FFS!



So, (don't tell her), it all works and fits now. I happily played with my wheel building jiggery thingy and found it is quite easy to sort to get a wheel all laced up. Knowing that the tyre is fatter I would need to pull the wheel off centre even more it was just a case of loosening that side and tightening up the other.
Putting the tyre on was easy but I broke my foot pump. Couldn't get the tyre to sit right so went to the garage and used their pump. Had to get the pressure right up to 55 pounds before the tyre rim popped on properly - nearly giving me a heart attack.
A bloody whole nicker to use the air pump these days. And, and, I thought I'll get a gallon of petrol into the can while I'm there. Blimey! A tenner to get a gallon can filled! Jeez, glad I'm not going to work any more.
So, any old end up. Tyre on and all straight. Jolly good.



Here it is alongside the old rim. Looks miles better



And after putting in new bearings managing to literally burst my finger hitting it with the hammer. Oh the bloody bum holes poo bear fucker! Well at least there'll be no black man's pinch....
I think I have enough room for the chain. Looks ok but need to pack up for now while I go find a plaster.

 

Next time you have an issue with anything mechanical, give me a shout and I'll send the Admin Staff round.......over....

 

Thank you, really. It's not that much skill, as one can see from the posts, and continually hitting myself with a hammer, it's just that the tele's a bit crap of late. So I'd be bored otherwise.