Happend 3 times this morning, warm engine after 5-6 miles of riding, 2nd gear hard acceleration, engine cuts out with total loss of power and no throttle response. Had to coast to a stop and cycle the power off, then on, then restart. Anyone else experience this? Im 99% sure I was not at redline when the engine cut out, but I was looking at the road not my RPMs. Later in the day I experimented, and I did notice in any gear if you pull the clutch in and rev it up to redline, the engine cuts out when you touch redline. This seems dangerous to cut total power, but is this how the rev limiter works on the S3? My Daytona 675 is not like this at all. Thanks for any info you guys might have.
I just had a somewhat similar experience with my 2019 Speed Triple RS a couple of weeks ago. I was about three miles into a group ride when I experience my difficulties. I was able to limp home but it was very disconcerting. Iad my bike trailered to the dealership a few days later where they did a diagnostic since it's still under warranty. The problem is something in my clutch perch that essentially keeps the clutch from fully disengaging. Mine didn't seem to be related to being at redline specifically but what I experienced was that when I would shift then roll on the throttle it would rev but my speed would stay the same. It almost felt as though my bike would just be stuck in neutral and go nowhere. So a new clutch assembly has been ordered and will be replaced tomorrow or Wednesday. Perhaps my experience and my bike's problem are totally unrelated to what you've experienced, @TripleNo1, but thought I'd share it since the feeling I experienced with my Speedy seems like what you've described. Hope you get your problem figured out and are back on your fully-functioning Speed Triple ASAP!
@Sandi T. thanks for the info. I hope the new clutch assembly does the trick for you. The thing I experienced was different. When the engine cut out under acceleration the motor shut off and the throttle was completely unresponsive. . It's as if the computer hit the kill switch on me. The same thing happend when pulling in the clutch and revving it to redline, engine gets killed and have to coast to a stop.
Wow, that is a really bad deal, TripleNo1. I at least still had an engine and was even able to limp back home by physically pushing the clutch forward and by relying mainly on the quick shifter. I certainly hope that you find out the problem and get it solved fully and quickly. Please keep us posted.
in the early days of owning my 2019 RS i had something similar happen a couple of times. i think both times it was just a minute or so into the journey. bike just seemed to turn itself off i didn't come to a stop, just carried on coasting, and found pressing starter button again got bike going and off i went i put it down to the keyless fob, and bike thinking it was no longer present and shutting bike down. i did change the batteries in it soon after and hasnt occured again in last 10 months or so which also made me think was likely the issue. not identical to your problem, but similar
Try cleaning to the throttles with throttle cleaner with good rag don't drop anything in , what u speak off similar , how's the battery voltage actually have u checked it with multimeter ?
I would suspect a bad connection in the ignition circuit. The sparks are only cut when the rpm limit is exceeded and restored immediately they drop. Total loss of ignition smacks of connectivity rather than a control system.
I'd get to the shop and claim under warranty asap. Now you can prove it to them and if you wait, it'll no doubt disappear so you can’t prove it to the dealer.
Agreed, but the worst case is that triumph might say that you've caused it by fiddling around. Let's face it, they will use any excuse to not fix it and blame something else.
This isn't a battery issue, and bike is running great under normal riding conditions. My Daytona 675 cuts power momentarily (engine stays running) if I shift too late and hit redline. The Speed Triple RS is shutting the engine totally off. Does the rev limiter on these bikes (Speed Triple RS) kill the engine completely for safety reasons, or does it just cut power momentarily then kick back in when the revs lower?
This isn't a battery issue, and bike is running great under normal riding conditions. My Daytona 675 cuts power momentarily (engine stays running) if I shift too late and hit redline. The Speed Triple RS is shutting the engine totally off. Does the rev limiter on these bikes (Speed Triple RS) kill the engine completely for safety reasons, or does it just cut power momentarily then kick back in when the revs lower?
Triumph Recall of certain 2019 Speed Triple RS motorcycles https://motorsportsnewswire.com/201...-of-certain-2019-speed-triple-rs-motorcycles/
Did you ever find out what the issue was? I have the same problem with my street triple I bought 2 days ago?
I think I did. Early this spring I had the start/stop/kill switch malfunction on the bike and I had the switch cluster replaced. Since then I have had no further issues, and I assume the cutout problem was caused by the bad switch. I don't know if the street triple has the same toggle switch as the speed triple, but when my switch cluster went bad, you could kill the engine by resting your finger on the start/stop switch (not even pressing the switch in). The contacts and wire connections inside were bad. Good ol' Triumph electronics, right?
thanks mate, just tested this, slightest bit of pressure on the kill switch kills it… phone call to the dealership tomorrow it is This is my first triumph, that last comment doesn’t fill me with confidence
This thread was for the 1050rs and not the newer one? However, the switch assy does look the same so hopefully (and doubtfully..) its been modded internally?
Hey guys, I looked this up when I had the same problem. The bike could by smoothly ridden but when the bike redlined or hit 8k+ at wide open throttle the motor cut off. I went and took a look at the 2019 Speed Triple S I was riding and sure enough it was the switch block. However in my case it didn’t require a complete switch housing replacement. inside of the switch block there is a switch that is not being fully actuated. Just thickening the tab that presses against the switch solved the problem. In my case the faintest dab of hot glue and it’s good to go. See photos for reference.
