2013 Tiger Explorer Xc Clutch Problem?

I have changed everything in the clutch except the basket. I did follow the service manual instructions and it still slips when you accelerate. I am really starting to wonder if it could be something else. everything original that I removed I measured and everything was within spec. I changed it all anyway with no luck. Is there anything else that could cause this. Help please I miss my bike

 

The oil I use is Castrol gt full synthetic the same as when I bought it new. it's all hydronic and the clutch engages and disengaged good.

 

everything in the clutch is new except for the basket. the one thing I haven't changed is the slave cyl. but it works fine. New clutch plates, new friction plates, new springs and a new lifter plate. everything is from the triumph dealer stock parts.

 

No I didn't soak them but I did coat both sides of each friction plate with oil as I put it together. The bike is due for a oil change , do you think that could cause it. I use the same oil that was used when it was new its , Castrol Power RS Racing 4T 100% Synthetic 10W 40. Would it be better to change to an oil that wasn't 100% synthetic. If so, would you have a suggestion on the oil I should use? Another question, is there anything with the slave cyl. or the pin that would cause the clutch to not fully engage. The original friction plates that I took out were not discolored and still measured in spec. Thank you for any help

 

I will do that later today. Thank you for taking the time and helping. I'm hoping this will eliminate the problem. I will be sure to post the outcome. thanks again

 

Finally recieved a new updated slave cylinder and have it in. I have all the air out of the line and it seems to be working fine. I have the bike on the center stand. I started the bike pulled in the clutch and put it in 1st gear, let out on the clutch and I hear a rattling noise coming from the rear wheel so I shut it off. with no load on the drive shaft and gear I think that's what the noise was. Could someone tell me how much movement forward and backwards you should have or shouldn't have with the back wheel w/ bike in gear on center stand. The u joint is good and everything seems tight from the joint back. I know there should be some play back and forth. It just seems like there is a lot of play before the joint or in the motor. I put a mark on the back tire and moved the wheel all the way one direction, held a rulers to the mark and I moved the wheel 2 1/2 inches in the opposite direction. is that OK or is that to much.

 

well I took it for a short ride and it still slips. I don't have a clue what else to try other than putting spacers under the springs to make it tighter. Everything is new in the clutch. I am starting to think it's not the clutch. Does anybody know if there could be something else causing this. Help please

 

The old friction plates were still in spec but I put new ones in anyway along with new clutch plates, new springs and new lifter plate and new slave cyl.. yes it is motorcycle oil that I put in. I have a service manual on the bike and have followed it to a T. everything measures fine and the clutch engages and disengaged fine. from a cold start it seems to grab good but I can't make it a block before it slips when I try to accelerate. The hotter it gets the worse it gets.. I'm at a loss of what to try next. I did put .080 washer under each spring to see if that would help Any and it didn't. I recon I have no choice but to take it to a service shop. I would welcome any suggestions

 

I am still battling the clutch slipping. I now have replaced the slave cylinder also, took the master cylinder. off and checked everything out. Everything checked good so I put it back together and finally got all the air out of it. Well I took it for a ride and it was the same. Still slips when I accelerate hard. I don't have a clue what to try next.