Shim Removal Tool Or Remove Cams

The tools turn up used on eBay every now and again, always worth a look.
I’m no mechanic, but if you don’t mind buying a couple of extra gaskets, it’s probably as quick to take your cam off, just as long as you know what shims are going in?
I’ve recently removed mine...with the Haynes manual it was really straight forward, no gremlins!
Good luck with it all.

 

If the shims are on top of the buckets, ie directly in contact with the cam I’d say use the tool, it’ll save undoing the cam chain tensioner and cams every time you need to check clearance after shim change.

 

You should have knowledge of how many shims you need to replace after your measurements by now. It really is a yes/no decision. If they are in range leave them, it is not the intention to try and re-shim to the middle of the range.

If you have a lot to do it might be worth taking the cams out but only if you are confident and have the correct tools, e.g. torque wrench. If you only have a few shims to do or if you are not that confident just persevere with the tool. I used the tool for 6 of my 16 clearances on my Daytona.

The Triumph tool is not that dear from a Triumph dealer compared to the shop labour you are saving it is a small investment. Here is me using the Triumph tool on a Daytona 1200, it's a bit long winded but you will get the gist of the tool usage and the challenges it presents.

 

I totally agree with XCaTel, if the clearances are within the specified tolerances then why adjust them, however you say the inlet clearances point to an adjustment, if that's the case you will (if you don't have them already a selection of shims), sometimes you can swap them about to gain the correct clearance, it's usually the exhaust valves that require adjustment, and then it's usually down to the machine being red lined in the lower gears over time. There is a chart you can print off from the link below that will help record the measurements, however if you decide to take the cams out make sure you have a quality torque wrench and sockets etc. The trouble is if you don't have shims to hand (and don't forget a micromiter), then it will become time consuming for you as you will have to order new ones in.
https://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk/Valve Shims and Clearances.pdf

 

How did you decide on the correct shim size without having multiples to hand? My issue will be (when it comes to rebuilding the head) that the feelers never passed beneath the cam lobes to give me a reading because they were already too tight?

 

Ahh, you clearly had some clearance to begin with, then? Cheers, Bassy, thanks for getting back to me.