Symptoms Of A Flat Battery.

Have you checked the wiring and connections? Any dirty or loose connections? Is the main fuse clean and firm?

 

Does it do this every time or do the symptoms change slightly?
I’m just thinking it could be a faulty starter solenoid, or even the starter itself.
As littleade says though, a good clean/ check of connections from the battery to the starter would be the first steps.
Good luck with getting the problem sorted.

 

Not being a T100 owner I can’t say that it isn’t a quirk of the model, but being an engineer makes me think there is a problem if it’s not working as it should be expected to.

 

I’d say there’s a problem. Give us a clue! It obviously has been happening since you’ve bought the bike but was that 3 months ago or pre your new battery? If you can’t hook your bike up to a known good battery and see if it still happens then, as said above, give everything a good clean up and check

 

What are the symptoms? Does it just click pause click pause click etc? If so is it a fast series of them or is there a good full second between the clicks? If you run a test wire directly from your positive to the starter solenoid (small tab) will it turn over successfully?

 

Had similar problem with my old t100 and it was the starter relay,changed it for one off flea bay, no more probs.

 

If you get a click it sounds like a bad connection from the solenoid to the starter motor or a bad starter motor but could also be the solenoid change the cheapest parts first

 

I have a slightly more mature T100. With a healthy battery it has never hesitated. Your intermittent symptoms smack of a poor connection (earth strap stud underside rear gearbox?), lazy relay etc. I would squirt the fuse box and multiplugs (don’t forget inside headlamp shell) with electrical cleaner (Halfrauds aerosol) and wiggle. At nearly 10yrs old you can reasonably expect mild corrosion and the odd tired component.

 

What’s the time between pauses?

 

Hi Mally, I had a 2010 T100 for about 5 yrs and the only time I had symptoms like yours was when I had to replace the battery. Even though it was on charge when not ridden it didn't hold a charge. So I would charge it, measure the voltage across the battery terminals and get a reading of perhaps 12.7v but as soon as I tried to fire her up, all I got was a click. When I connected a known-good car battery with jump leads she would fire up like a good'un.

Apparently the ECU senses battery voltage and if it is below a certain threshold (12.5v I believe) the ECU won't allow an engine start. I think it's got something to do with protecting the sprag clutch.

So, bottom line is you need a good quality battery operating to it's optimum. Yuasa is the make I would recommend for a std. bike battery.

 

Second the, earth connection.

 

But really Dave, a reasonably new battery @ only several weeks old should work no matter what manufacturer as it need to be of merchandisable quality or taken back to the shop?

 

that sounds like sonanoid to me had the same problem changed all the easy bits then got an auto electrictrion and ended up being a short to the clutch switch on the clutch lever he also bypassed that problem of telling the computer the battery didn't have enough volts sorry but my spelling leaves much to be desired

 

Hey Mally,

if it "sometimes works" and "sometimes doesn't", then it sounds a lot like ti could be the clutch safety. It's a plaguing issue for a lot of Bonneville owners:

https://www.thetriumphforum.com/threads/how-to-fix-clutch-safety-or-neutral-switches.20300/

See also:

https://www.triumphrat.net/threads/2012-bonneville-t100-efi-wont-start.822338/