Wheel Paint - What To Use?

Discussion in 'Vintage Classics' started by bulldogbobby, Mar 13, 2020.

  1. bulldogbobby

    bulldogbobby Well-Known Member

    Apr 1, 2017
    65
    68
    norfolk
    Need to replace the tyres on one of the bikes but noticed that a small area of the rear wheel paint has started to scratch off [​IMG] The front wheel is spot on and so is the rest of the rear - can only assume that that section wasn't cleaned down properly before the top coat went onto the primer. [​IMG] Needs to be 100% right before I put the wheels back on the bike so gonna strip both wheels down and repaint them with rattle cans (again!). I used Simoniz last time - had a look through old posts but can't find a real recommendation for wheel paint? I need something close to the satin black original and it HAS to be hard-wearing. This has been recommended on other forums?

    https://www.frost.co.uk/frost-extre...rame-chassis-paint-aerosol-satin-black-500ml/

    What about applying a satin clear coat afterwards? Any other advice? (apart from powder coating!...........)

    Cheers!
     
  2. fzr162

    fzr162 Well-Known Member

    Mar 12, 2019
    227
    93
    Keighley west yorkSHIRE
    Why not Powder coating?
     
  3. bulldogbobby

    bulldogbobby Well-Known Member

    Apr 1, 2017
    65
    68
    norfolk
    Got polished spokes and rims - want to paint it to keep it as close as possible to original
     
  4. Tigcraft

    Tigcraft Unheard of Member

    Mar 29, 2014
    2,620
    800
    Holmfirth West Yorkshire
    Put a picture on so it tells the full story?
     
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  5. bulldogbobby

    bulldogbobby Well-Known Member

    Apr 1, 2017
    65
    68
    norfolk
    IMG_20200313_093355.jpg

    IMG_20200312_112635.jpg

    Stripped Rear Wheel.jpg
     
  6. fzr162

    fzr162 Well-Known Member

    Mar 12, 2019
    227
    93
    Keighley west yorkSHIRE
    Etching primer on to the bare metal. Then primer and paint. Use the best you can get preferably from an auto paint supplier.
     
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  7. bulldogbobby

    bulldogbobby Well-Known Member

    Apr 1, 2017
    65
    68
    norfolk
    • Like Like x 1
  8. Tigcraft

    Tigcraft Unheard of Member

    Mar 29, 2014
    2,620
    800
    Holmfirth West Yorkshire
    Have you got spraying tackle or not? If yes then the best etch is a ‘wash primer’ which is like yellow piss. Apply that 50/50 mixed from the kit you get it in. Clean it first like you’d eat off it!
    If you haven’t any spraying tackle then get branded mipa or upol in aerosol form.
    Then either 2k prime for a ‘worked smooth’ finish or leave primer for a cast finish, then straight on with top coat either 2k black system or air dried system.
     
    • Informative Informative x 1
  9. bulldogbobby

    bulldogbobby Well-Known Member

    Apr 1, 2017
    65
    68
    norfolk
    Nope - no spraying equipment whatsoever, I'm just an enthusiastic amateur but thanks for the info mate :)
     
  10. decrepitus

    decrepitus Member

    Mar 11, 2020
    33
    13
    carmarthen
    i would suggest talking to a car wheel painter. a lot of car alloys have some alloy, some black. i had my scimitar wheels done some time ago and it was a lot better than i could have done
     
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  11. bulldogbobby

    bulldogbobby Well-Known Member

    Apr 1, 2017
    65
    68
    norfolk
    Polished and Painted.
    Pleased with the results - let's see how they hold up!

    Front Wheel Polished and Painted.jpg Rear Wheel Polished and painted.jpg
     
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  12. Gladtobebackontwowheels

    Nov 23, 2019
    398
    393
    Dover. UK
    They can mask off with powder coat, can't they?
    Certainly more hard wearing than paint.
     
  13. bulldogbobby

    bulldogbobby Well-Known Member

    Apr 1, 2017
    65
    68
    norfolk
    OK - So a minor issue when the new tyres were fitted (BT45's with tubes as the rims aren't tubeless). Both tyres didn't seem to be seated correctly and no matter how many times I deflated them and 'bounced' them, I couldn't get them to seat all the way around the rims. I bought a tub of 'Remaxx Mont 2000' bead lubricant, left the wheels in the sun to soften the rubber up a bit, deflated the tyres, cleaned the inside of the rims up, put loads of the stuff on the beads and inside the rims then pumped them up. The front 'popped' pretty much straight away and the rear centred itself on the second attempt. Another step forward to getting the bike back on the road - chuffed!

    Front Tyre Not Seated - View From Top.jpg

    Rear Tyre Not Seated - View From Top 2.jpg

    Tyre Bead Lubricant.jpg
     
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