Recommissioning a 1995 Daytona 900

East Kent huh? Used to be my old stomping ground many years ago when I was at Christ Church College, Canterbury (1969 -1972! - said it was many years ago!!!). Started there with a 250cc YDS3 Yamaha, followed by a Norton 88 (500cc), but eventually succumbed to the delights of a '69 Bonneville from Geoff Daryn's place in Sandwich (Sept '71 I believe, after the Norton let me down ... AGAIN!!! ).
Some good riding to be had in that area - or there was back then!
Aahh ... those were t' days, lad!! SIGH!!!

 

You can go on a clive wood t3 course. He does them fairly often in the winter. Covers valve clearance. Engine strip Inc sprag. Brakes carbs electrics etc etc.
A very worthwhile course and folks go from all over inc Ireland and scotland.
https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=824782640921802
Or look on the Mk1 speed triple site
http://www.mk1speedtriple.co.uk/2013/11/clive-wood-engine-masterclasses/

 

Hi Andy, you'd normally change chain and sprockets together, are you going to do it yourself? You need a decent chain splitter. I've borrowed one when I've needed to re-rivet and provided you can get access to a vernier gauge and angle grinder the job is easy if care is taken. Have you got a chain oiler? There's a lot of controversy about them but I think the Scottoiler is brilliant. It pays for itself in the life of one chainset. I would hang on to the carbs if I were you, they are always in demand and you might need them later. You could even hone your carb skills on preparing a standby set. If you do sell I will be grateful for the item number. Thanks for remembering me. Regards Paul

 

Hi Paul, just to follow on your 'Scottoiler' comments, I've used one for 20 yrs and 200,000mls approx. and never needed to buy a replacement chain and sprockets set.

Silly me, I sold my last one with my last bike, so I now I need to buy a new'un

 

Well Biglad, what is it about them that you think makes them successful? I swear by them and had them on all of my later bikes but I have a theory about them which you may not agree with. Since the modern O and X ring chains come pre-sealed with grease it cannot be that the chain oiler is lubricating the pins since the O and X rings stop lubricant transfer both ways, in and out. The oil will certainly assist in building up a film on the sprockets just as it lubricates between the exposed parts of the chain in way of the pin/rivet of both the inside and outside links. This will reduce the chances of cyclic chain loading due to seized links. I have a feeling that all the chain oiler does is provide a permanent non-stick surface so that all the road crap gets flung off. This, in turn, stops the production of what is, in effect, grinding paste! I think that this is the key contribution of the chain oiler. It would be interesting if somebody could shed some light on it and maybe even some numbers. My eldest son rides a 750 kwacka and just wipes his chain off once a week. There IS wear but it's very low.
Regards
Paul

 

I think Scottoilers work a bit like a washing machine. If installed correctly the injector delivers drips of oil onto the INSIDE of the chain. Centrifugal force encourages the oil to pass through to the outside and ultimately off the chain. I believe this process washes the surface of the chain. O & X chains work because they have chambers full of grease sealed by O-rings - these need to stay clean.

As I've stated many times, irrespective of how they actually work, I know they deliver the results that I want, and ultimately that's all I care about.

 

You're quite right. My first bike was a RE Crusader sports. It pissed oil from the primary chain case no matter how hard I tried to make it seal. In the end l copied a standard fix, which was to drill and tap the removable plug which was used to check the chain tension then run a plastic pipe from the tapping back to the final drive chain. It still pissed oil every time the primary chain case pressurised but it did it all over the chain BEFORE it hit the ground. The chain really benefitted though it wasn't controllable and tended to cover the whole back end. If I'd had my head screwed on I would have taken it a couple of stages further and invented the Scottoiler but in those days the struggle was to try to keep the oil INSIDE the engine.

 

Happy landings Andrew, I'll follow up that lead on eBay tomorrow after I've finished on nights. Paul

 

Hi Paul,
Avon tyres are not all that according to mates in the bike trade! So many come through sub standard ie quality control is rubbish! (granted this conversation was a year ago so maybe things have got better?)

Stick to Michelin or BT023 & also on here one guy has tried BT030`s & said they were great!

Have fun

 

Sorry for not answering earlier Stiffler, I've been out of the country for 3 weeks and lost touch. Thanks for the tip, funny how things change, when I was a youngster the only tyre to get was an Avon Roadrunner, now it looks as though this Michelin PR4 is the best. When I'm leant right over on the tarmac at 70 mph and sometimes a little more, I really do need to believe in the rubber I'm on. That and the final drive chain whizzing past my ankle. Thanks again.

 

I've used two sets of Avon Road Riders on my T100 and I found them to be very good. Excellent grip grip wet or dry, no tramlining, very good wear characteristics and good price.

 

best place for carb parts in UK is Allens Performance. Big saving over triumph and genuine mikuni parts.
Say its for a BST36 carb.
A must on these carbs is to make sure the pilot jet is clear. ultrasonic cleaning will not clear them.