Recommissioning a 1995 Daytona 900

Removing the carbs requires a steady hand, a light touch and the patience of a saint (lump hammer optional!!). If it runs, I would take the easy option of adding a generous slug of Redex, or similar, to some fresh petrol and run the engine for a while. This may be enough to clear out the carbs and thus save a (possible) load of hassle. I've never had a problem with carbs silting up as I always use Redex when storing the bike over winter. I did forget once and almost got away with it, but when the bike started spluttering on the first ride of the new year, I went to the nearest Halfords (about 3 miles away as it happened!), got some Redex, stuck it in the tank, and rode away. Cleared up within about 5 miles!
Air filter boxes are made of a very brittle type of plastic, so be careful with yours. I fitted a K&N filter element in mine as a 'fit and forget' solution. New boxes are still available though, if needed, from the likes of Sprint Manufacturing and Squaredeals.
Good luck with it - not the easiest of jobs, but if I can do it ..............!
There is a recent post on here relating to carb removal etc which may be of use to you.

 

I'm sure I've seen a similar tap on other bikes, but I'll be buggered if I can remember where!!
I tapped 'motorcycle vacuum fuel taps' into google, which threw up some options.
Sprint Manufacturing www.triumphparts.co.uk do a petrol tap rebuild kit and knobs for the tap if required (plastic and aluminium) - £29, £7.50 and £25 in that order - plus various other bits and pieces which may be of use/interest.
I've used them before (ages ago really!) with no problems, and others rate them quite highly.
Also www.squaredeals-ltd.co.uk are another good source of parts. I've used them as well, to good effect!
Lack of revs could easily be starvation, but the cause??....... hmmmmmmmmm!

 

Have a look at www.worldoftriumph.com in the parts section, where you will find schematics for your bike which may be helpful - or just bloody confusing!
As far as I remember there is no specific outlet for reserve supply. Mind you, it's years since I had my tank off, and mixed up the pipes when I put it back together!!!

 

Just had the carbs off my Trident to replace the airbox. I don't think there is a specific outlet for the reserve either. You have three pipes running from the petcock - the smaller diameter one from the rear is the vacuum pipes and the other two are the fuel lines - they are shaped slightly differently as one comes from the rear and one the side so you can tell how they are routed. The other two pipes are just breather hoses which hang down below the carbs.

There is a small filter in each inlet pipe to the carbs - just pull off each fuel line where it joins the carb inlet and you will see it. Pull these out carefully and clean out, they will be full of gunk and sorting this out should help.

 

I have been doing the exact same job as you, bringing a '95 Daytona 900 back to life. The previous (original) owner had stored it beautifully for 6 years but the fuel system was disgusting from fuel tank cap to main jets. On the outside the carbs were in a beautiful condition but the fuel hoses were hard and brittle, as were the fuel supply T pieces between the carbs and the pet cock was so badly seized I had to renew it, (£80+ ouch!). I think this is common with a Suzuki part but I was in a hurry. 2 of the 3 pilot jets, the emulsion tubes were part blocked and so was 1 of the main jets. The bowls were full of disgusting crud. Removal of the carbs is a pain but if you go slowly and pay attention you shouldn't have a problem. TAKE MANY PHOTOS. Many of the O-rings and seals disintegrated upon removal. Kits in Viton are available from NRP. If you look at all the myriad sites on YT you will see what to do and what not to do. I cleaned the carbs with an ultrasonic cleaner and then blew out every orifice and jet with carb cleaner. You should renew the interconnecting fuel T-pieces as well as the little filters in the leg of each tee. I used the cheaper, external cotton braided fuel line but it does have a tendency to collapse and I would suggest you use the reinforced nitrile stuff (ID 6mm OD 13mm sae j30r6) with new spring clamps. Be sure to clean and lub. the fuel filler cap, I got mine open after a couple of hours but they cost a fortune to renew. The bike has done 17k miles and I didn't need to renew the float valves. Prime and run and you should have years of trouble free service. Once I'd got it idling well and revving hard I filled my fuel tank with a double dose of Redex and sprayed carb cleaner down the air inlets. I don't know if this helped but I thought it would clear through any dislodged crap. Good luck with yours.

 

Hi Andrew, I'm sorry to hear that you had to take it to a shop. Make sure that you get your old carbs back.... complete! I don't know what your mechanic means by "knackered" but as long as the castings are all intact they are always repairable. I've included a photo of mine without the choke bar before they went back in. If you want to send me the "knackered" ones I'll give you an idea of how much it will cost you to put them right. I reckon I could get your knackered ones looking and running like mine for less than £200. Don't forget, make sure you get the old ones back. Next time you find yourself in such a predicament take the carbs off and ship them to a real expert like JRS.uk.com, he's done some lovely work and has a reputation to defend. Good luck. Paul

 

Hi again Andrew. I'm not in need of any fairing parts though I know they're hugely expensive. If you ever decide to sell your carbs would you give me a heads up please? Cleaning and overhauling mine was a time-consuming business and I would have needed a couple of days without the bike if I was relying it. Having a bank of carbs ready to go would have made the job much easier. Hope you finally got sorted. Regards Paul

 

Hello again Andy, I took the bike out yesterday for the first time and gave it a full throttle blast under load. Results were not good. Although everything seemed ok at idle and thereabouts up to 4000 rpm, I hadn't really done what I did yesterday. The exhaust was smoking (white) even though it was hot. I couldn't get full power either. I'm pretty sure that it is fuel starvation caused by the 6mm id pipe. I spoke with a really helpful guy at Advanced Fluid Solutions this morning who was adamant that I should have fitted DIN 73379 type B cotton overbraid hose but with an id of 7.5mm (od 12.5mm) This is because the stubs are 8mm od and the hose id should be only between 5% and 8% smaller. He was not impressed with spring clamps either so I've bought some skinny stainless JCS hi grip clamps. Fortunately they don't need masses of torque so I can use my cranked pilot screw adjusting driver. It's important to get the hose right as a 6mm id hose only provides two thirds of what a 7.5mm id hose does. I'm going to have to whip the carbs out next week to cut the 6mm id hose off the tees but once this is done and it's all set up, with luck, the old girl should sing like a Diva.
Regards
Paul

 

If you check out World of Triumph they want £20 a pop for each fuel hose + delivery..... it's outrageous! If you have original hoses they are 20 years old now and getting brittle. Suggest you might want to change them. Just be sure not to crunch them or that nasty little vacuum pipe when the tank sits right down. If you need to know how to run the pipes there is an excellent post from a Frenchman.

http://www.triumph-t3-passion.info/carburateurs.html

You'll have to right click the page and translate but it's the best one I've seen so far. Go to the end and click the link saying "here" in red. Just poke around, he's taken lots of high quality photos. Best of luck. Paul

 

I live between Dover and Canterbury but I don't have any plans to put this bike on the road before the Spring. I have to get a couple of new tyres as the current Battlax 020's are hard and plasticky AND they are 12 years old?!?! All the rubbery type things, fork seals etc have hardened a bit so I'm going to take it very easy to begin with. The high speed blast was just to prove what I'd done with the carbs so far. No objections to a brew next year though. When I do get it on the road I think I'll be doing more motorway miles than anything else so the choice of tyre looks like Avon Storm 3D X-M or Michelin PR4-GT. I have no experience of either of these, how about you? Paul