Delete

No, you don’t want to be deleting them, they’re quite essential

 

Ditto

 

Jokes aside, what exactly is being deleted?

 

If your going to delete the air cleaner you need some decent velocity stacks on them.

 

Usually a set of three vacuum gauges to balance...and presuming it was previously a carb model a fuel pump that provides the correct pressure for the injectors...and an ECU .

 

So if an injected bike to start with it will have everything in place IE fuel pump and ECU ...so you just want to balance the throttle body's?
There should be vacuum take offs the at are blanked on the throttle body's that you can hook up vacuum gauges to.
If not then remove the throttle body's and use three BBs to balance opening...or alternatively just use a feeler gauge or small metal rod and adjust in situe.

Not sure about the ECU compensating for out of balance TBs as all it can do is adjust overall fueling from lambda feedback (if it has lambda) so i doubt it

 

you can use tuneecu to balance, it’s a little delayed so takes some patience but it works. A remote fuel tank is the easiest way to run it but if you’re cheap like me you can just have the tank hooked up but out of the way.

 

You can’t use a remote fuel tank unless it’s pumped as it needs pressure.
I usually sit the tank where the seat would be and use a couple of bungees to hold it in place. The fuel lines and pump wiring just about reach.

 

Not sure quite how the ECU can compensate for throttle plate balance?
unless injector pule width can be individually adjusted which would require wide band lambda on each cylinder exhaust...the throttle plate in that pic is mechanically adjusted so would need user input to adjust.

 

Ahh yes can’t use a remote tank on that, sometimes my brain goes back to its childhood state before fuel injection

 

Feeler guages.

 

The point being to get all the plates within a few thou of opening together so adjusting the main stop so you can get say a 20thou feeler (or 1/16" rod would be better) at the very bottom part of one of the plates and then using the individual plate adjusters to get the others the same ...then you can just reset/close the main adjuster down until its within spec and all should be good...its not rocket science...pardon the pun.