Which Battery ?

An ‘upgrade’ is often no better than a well care for standard battery. A quality AGM (glass mat) periodically hooked up to a smart charger will do all you ever need and last as long as you can reasonably expect. Online prices are pretty close to Halfrauds trade card prices.

 

I’ve been tempted with getting a new Lithium battery

https://www.tayna.co.uk/motorcycle-batteries/shido/

They’re a lot lighter than traditional ones and have better crank power, and don’t lose (much) power in storage.

The only downside is that if the temperature is v cold, you need to ‘start’ the battery to get the chemistry working. Just turn on the ignition for 5 secs and that will do it - probably...

Ordinary battery weighs ~5Kg these are often <0.8Kg

 

Lithium batteries also require a special charger £50ish
Although they have a higher CCA I find the actual capacity to be quite small
It drained a lot quicker than the Motobatt AGM battery I have had previously
BUT the lithium battery can be recovered from a drop to 2v from 14v using the lithium charger, an AGM would be consigned to the bin

 

You aren’t wrong!

Interestingly there are those that will argue that you shouldn’t compare the capacity of a Li to a Pb battery as they function and store/release charge differently and in real world tests they do about the same. I’ll try to find the link as I wasn’t quite believing it either...

 

Chargers are only an issue if they have the desulphation? Mode. Cheap ones should be ok ! If they are at a fixed voltage.

 

Lithium must NOT receive a charge at or above 15v as this will immediately kill the cells
A couple of years ago with a Yuasa fitted, my stator and RR failed it started putting out 16-17v, I only noticed as the seat got hot where the battery is stored underneath

I tried Lithium but the cold kept killing it, even over a couple of nights, I have resorted to my Yuasa and I have now attached a digital volt meter next to the clocks and it gives a constant readout of what the battery is putting out

12.6v standing
12.1v ignition on - lights on
14 to 14.2v with the engine running

The Lithium would require 14.4v to 14.6v to charge iirc

For AGM batteries, I can recommend Motobatt, much more robust and higher CCA than Yuasa for similar price and size.

 

I asked because I'm having starting and firing issues.
I changed the plugs first, made no difference.
Then checked for a spark, there was one on cylinder 3, but not 1 & 2. Then I went back to cylinder 3 and it didn't spark.
According to my optimate, the battery is fine, charged.
But the original post on this thread suggests that an optimate showing full charge doesn't necessarily mean that the battery is working properly.

 

I asked because I'm having starting and firing issues.
I changed the plugs first, made no difference.
Then checked for a spark, there was one on cylinder 3, but not 1 & 2. Then I went back to cylinder 3 and it didn't spark.
According to my optimate, the battery is fine, charged.
But the original post on this thread suggests that an optimate showing full charge doesn't necessarily mean that the battery is working properly.

 

It may be a case of back to basics
Thoroughly cleaning the battery terminals and connections
Checking the earthing points
Ensure the plugs are firmly connected to the caps
Double check spark plug gaps
Is the air filter clear
Make sure oil level isn't over filled, is it measured with dip stick sitting on top or screwed in, for my 1050 Speed Triples it is with the dip stick screwed in (garage did a service for me and returned it back with 1 pint of oil above maximum, it was running aweful)

Use a multimeter to check the actual battery voltage when not running, after a mains charge, and when it is running

 

Just put a Lithium in my Speedmaster last month, £64 also had one in my VFR800 its the way to go!!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lightwei...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
240CCA; capacity of lithium is measured differently to wet cells due to much higher efficiency.